Captain Obvious

Haha! I should have put out an open invite, huh? Would have loved to have you over too! By the time we got to number four strut, it was "almost easy". Once you figure out the best order of events and which spacers, drifts, and little bits and pieces to use... It's almost assembly line.

Darn right. It was epic! Two more Z's with tight new rear bearings headed for the road soon!!

Well then that's extra awesome that was truly the first real start. Great work! If you want, I'll look in my box of stuff for a TVV. I've switched over to a completely different throttle body and I don't need the TVV anymore. If I've got one, I'll send you the one from my 77. Sorry to have steered you wrong on the 78 version.

And there was some beer involved. And grease. Lots of grease. The aftermath: You, my friend, definitely earned your keep yesterday!

That's awesome! And I would recommend putting some brake lines on the master cylinder before you put some miles on it. So... Was that really the first start? Or did you start it a couple minutes before just so you wouldn't look like a doofus cranking and cranking and cranking?

No worries. So what year are you working on here? And my guess for that two position connector continues to be illumination bulbs. And based on the location in the car (which can now be seen in the wider angle shot ), I'm suggesting the bulb that lights up the gear shift position. Maybe that connector is supposed to tuck lower and go to the gear shift?

I'm confused. I'm not sure what connector you are even interested in... In the first pic (of the wiring documentation) you centered the camera on a three position connector labeled LW/R/LR. But then in the second pic you are showing a two position connector with G/W and R/B. So which connector are you asking about? And close-up pics are great, but "context" could be more easily obtained if you were to pull the camera back a little. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blind_men_and_an_elephant

Green/white and red/blue is usually instrumentation lighting. Dash lights, HVAC illumination, ash try light... That sort of thing. I can't tell from that close-up where that connector is, but I suspect it's for a bulb somewhere.

Yes, the metal mounts. I can get the plastic part if it's cracked. But I don't have the metal "L"s to put the plastic on.

Sweet. And if you want to swing by PHL and pick me up, I'd be happy to give you a hand. I got just one good arm right now, but I'll do what I can!

Got something else... If any of them still have the engine, I need the spark plug wire loom brackets. The divider thingies that bolt to the valve cover.

Do we get to vote?

Yeah, same thing at the P-n-P yards near me. When I go, I look like I'm going on safari. Everyone else looks like they're out for the weekend for good behavior.

Nice. I'm not a fan of most painted valve covers, but I gotta admit... I like that one.

I have no idea what the differences are between the harnesses, but is there the possibility you could remove and reposition the contacts from the connector shell(s) to convert what you have into what you need?

Yes, evap, vapor, CARB... All the same thing. I wasn't correcting you at all. "Evaporative emissions control system" is the official name in the FSM. You were closer to that than I was. It's all good! The evap system uses that goofy check valve-ish device between the tank and the carbon can. You can see that device hanging out in this pic, near the bottom: On the tank side of that check valve, there could be some pressure buildup (due to a purposely high "cracking pressure"). But on the carbon canister side, there should never be any measurable pressure in that line. Point is... If it passes air, you should be OK. Smoosh it a little, or just let it be. The LAST thing I would do is cut it and introduce more leak points in the system.

Gotcha. So when you go back, pull off the brake master cylinder first. Easy-peasy and no flight suit required. Easy job up in the engine compartment. Once the M/C is off, take a look at the area where the master bolts to the booster... If it's clean and dry inside and not wet with brake fluid, then we're a GO. If it's all rusty and paint a-peelin from brake fluid, then just leave it. But if it is clean and dry, then the rest of the work is done down by the pedals. One pin with retaining clip, and four nuts. I've been able to reach all that stuff kneeling outside the car. I haven't had to resort to laying down face-up on the car floor. Not that bad. A bad day at the junkyard beats a good day at work. And much thanks if you grab one for me!!

That is the vapor vent line. If it passes air, it's probably fine the way it is. But if you get energetic, you might just smoosh the outward bump back in a little. That might help open up the ID a tiny bit more. If it bugs you.

Bummer. I didn't know about the glass specifically, but I'm not surprised. Just about everything else is different with the 77-78 doors. So, you mentioned the brake booster... Did you grab one? Sure I'd pay $25 for one that is dry and not rusty inside.

Thanks. Me too. I'm headed to the first doctor tomorrow. I suspect this is a season-ending injury...

Gotcha. Working back through PO's work is always tough. Hope the rest of it goes smooth!

Chuck, I normally make it to this show, but I don't think I'm going to make it this year. I'm nursing a recently attained sports injury and am putting most of life on hold for a little while. Else, I would take you up on your offer.

It's clear from the scratch marks on the little metal tabs of that switch that someone has opened that thing up in the past. I'm sure it's all related. Maybe the wire's solder joint was weakened by that process, Maybe they took it off completely during that process and didn't do a good job of putting it back on. Maybe the headlight side rocker inside the switch was burned beyond recognition so they swapped the one from the running lights over. There might not even be a rocker on the running light side if that's the case. Maybe they took that wire off intentionally to use a separate mounted switch somewhere else. Just thinking out loud as to why that switch and wiring is the way it is now. I think you have identified the "what". I'm just musing about the "why".

Glad to help. All that research done, however, I have little confidence of exactly what style (year) will arrive when you order from rockauto. The most important takeaway is that it probably doesn't matter. So, about the gas tank... Didn't you already have the tank done? Why is it costing you more money?

My pleasure. Glad to help. Steve and Dave know the system inside and out, but at least I can do that much.