Captain Obvious

I found I needed to slightly modify the driver's side poly bushing to get it to fit to the rack correctly. And even then, it was a tight fit. I had to tap it into place with a plastic mallet. Here's two pics of the reason, but there are lots of details in this thread. Pictures have been reloaded to page four: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/48621-steering-rack-disassembly-and-refurb/?page=4

That's simply awesome.

It's not 27 Ohms. It's either 270 Ohms, or 2.7 Ohms depending on the color of that third band and I can't tell from the photo if that third band is brown or gold. If I had to guess, I would say it's gold, making it a 2.7 Ohm resistor. As for the purpose... I wasn't there when they designed the thing, but (again if I had to guess), I would theorize the reason the resistor exists is to take advantage of the fact that the "hold" current for the relay magnet is lower than the "pull-in" current. The initial pull in is a straight connection to system voltage through the ignition switch, but once the relay has pulled in and the engine has started, the AFM switch wouldn't need to handle as much current to keep it closed. Conjecture, of course.

Tamo, Just wanted to say that I'm glad you got to the root of the problem and let you know that I read your post and wanted to help, but I know nothing about the CS144. I was hoping someone else here would chime in. So I'm just happy you got the help you needed, even if it wasn't from here.

I've seen that type of failure a number of times in the past on old equipment. Both on wires pulling through tabs like you had there and the solder ball on the bottom of bulbs. I suspect that even though the operating temperature isn't high enough to actually "melt" the solder, it is high enough to just slightly plasticize the consistency. I'm thinking that the constant pressure or strain combined with the plasticized hardness is enough that it very slowly creeps over the years. Sometimes resulting in a failure like you had there. I'm sure you've seen this too in other applications.

I believe that is the case as well. I think the extent of the effects is related to the grade of stainless and the temperature reached. But you're right... Nowhere to go but up, and you went way up! And even if the stainless properties are down a little, it's not like it's going to spontaneously rust overnight in that one spot. It might surface rust slowly or something like that. An occasional buff down with scotchbrite would probably be enough to keep from attracting undesired attention.

Nice work on working that trim piece. Only thing I would point out is that stainless sometimes degrades or loses it's stainless-ness when it gets hot. I'm not sure how hot it needs to be for this to happen, but I wouldn't be surprised if it's not as corrosion resistant in that area after the torch. Not that it really matters though! You didn't have much to lose, and even if it's not as good as it used to be, it's still way better than crinkled!

(Not surprisingly) great sleuthing there SteveJ! What about the root cause? Why do you think that wire came off the back of the socket? Heat? Vibration? Mechanical overstress? Something else?

This is a great site with wonderful members. Hopefully you'll be able to meet many of them in person. PS - Did you have your car at New Hope this year?

Har-dee-har-har. You funny guy. Seriously though., beautiful car, and excellent workmanship.

That better be southern sweet tea (at least that's what we call it up here). You probably just call it "tea".

"sorta like going to work without your pants on" Wait... You've done that too??? Whew! I feel a little better knowing I'm in good company!!

And yes... The front end will be significantly higher than desired without the weight of the engine. Putting the engine in will drop the height quite a bit.

Yes, adding resistance to the temp sensor(s) adds fuel. It's easy to add fuel. It's more difficult to reduce it. @DC871F So there is a lot of help already being provided here and I'm not going to get in the middle of that, but I would like some clarity about the problem being chased. The original problem was described as "hesitation during acceleration. Runs fine at highway speeds and intermediate speeds other than acceleration." So what does "acceleration" mean? Are you talking "normal gradual speed increase up to a typical cruising speed", or are you talking "I put my foot hard into it and it sputters at or near wide open throttle?" Reason I ask is that (as Zed Head alluded to earlier) the distributor advance signal is a port vacuum source and only exists at cruising pedal positions. At idle and at WOT, there is no vacuum presented to the distributor. If the problem is at WOT, it sounds more like a TPS or fuel pressure issue (fuel pump or a dirty filter(s) or plugged lines). Yes, you need to get your vacuum advance fixed, but that small vacuum leak should not have much of an effect on anything beyond cruising gas pedal position. Oh well... So much for not getting involved.

Whaaaaa?? This should be long fixed by now! I know it's a lot more fun to drive the thing than to work on it*, but you've got to bite the bullet sometime. Haha!! * (except for @siteunseen who has claimed he would rather work on them than drive them)

What he said!!!

Actually, he explicitly says the dash has no "crakes". So I'll offer up a third possibility in addition to the two much more highly probable suggestions listed above - Maybe "crakes" wasn't a typo and actually means something to the guy who wrote the ad. I'm Captain Obvious, and I approve this message. Biggest problem for me is the salvage title. Unless you wash it by questionable and/or unethical means, it'll haunt that car forever. PS - Not sure if this is the case or not, but something about that ad makes me think that the person who wrote that ad isn't the same person that owns the car. Not sure what it is, but I get that vibe.

Another bright side? They say heat makes the spindle pins easier to get out. Those should fall right out.

So do you think they are PURPOSELY trying to help get the Trojan installed, or do they just not understand?

Actually it sounds like they were a lot of help and you're just looking at it wrong. They told you that you are already (or are about to be) in possession of stolen property, but didn't send the authorities to find you. I think you should be happy with that result. Yes, adhering to the law can be "inconvenient". It usually costs more, and usually takes more time. But it's the right thing to do. And a $500 payoff to a buddy who works at an impound despite the unscrupulous and questionable origin of the car is not the right way to do it. If it was never declared abandon in the first place, then removing it is called theft. There seems to be a trend by tzagi1 here of "attaining" vehicles from people who never had the authority to sell them in the first place. Some people call that fraud. And because you actually know it's wrong, that makes it even worse. Remind me to never buy a car from Nevada. Rust free or not. I'd be worried it was stolen and passed through hands like this. @Mike Tough to do, but I've had enough. Captain Out. Seriously. Someone should call the authorities.

Wow. Thanks for the detailed critique. Much appreciated. I doubt I would have ever picked up on the Trojan. That's really saddening. So you told the vender about it, and other than them begging you to remove the negative feedback, did they have anything else to say about it? Not sure if it's the same kind of interconnect, but the next hurdle you will have is getting the USB to parallel adapter cable to work right with pirate counterfeit FTDI driver chips. (I think this is where that whole thing comes in.) Keep up the good work!

And BTW... DMV.ORG? Seriously? At the top of DMV.ORG's website it says: "DMV.ORG IS A PRIVATELY OWNED WEBSITE THAT IS NOT OWNED OR OPERATED BY ANY STATE GOVERNMENT AGENCY." so forget about anything you find there. If someone is looking for info on Nevada rules, then they should go to Nevada DMV site. But about that note on DMV.COM? It's true. Sort of... According to NV rules, You do not need to have a title in hand to sell a vehicle that is more than 9 years old. Instead of the seller signing the title over, the seller can fill out a request for a replacement title instead along with providing a BOS. So while that note on DMV.COM is technically true, it's an incomplete cherry pick sound byte of a more complicated procedure. Here's the procedure as described by Nevada DMV: You must provide a properly signed-off title to the buyer in private party sales, family sales or gifts. Any loan or other lien must be satisfied first. . . . The only exception is if the vehicle was 1) last titled in Nevada, 2) is more than 9 model years old and 3) has no liens or the owner of record has a lien release, the buyer and owner of record can then complete 1) an Application for Duplicate Title (VP 012) and 2) a Bill of Sale to transfer ownership. So you either sign over the title, or if the title is lost or mutilated, then you can have the seller fill out the request for a replacement instead of signing over the original. Ref: http://dmvnv.com/regprivate.htm#selling http://dmvnv.com/pdfforms/vp012.pdf http://www.dmvnv.com/pdfforms/vp104.pdf

A bill of sale isn't worth anything if the person on the selling end of the agreement isn't in the legal position to sell the vehicle. For example, I can give a buyer a BOS as I sell him my sister's car. But since I never owned my sister's car in the first place and didn't have the authority to sell it in the first place, that BOS is simply a worthless piece of paper that has some words and a couple signatures on it. Or my sister could sell her ex-husband's car out from under him and give the buyer a BOS. But since she never had the authority to sell it in the first place, again... worthless piece of paper that has some words on it. I hope you can get an honest legitimate title for the car. It would be a shame to take a rust free example out of the shrinking pool and cut it up.

Haha!! Thanks guys! I don't know about the little 38mm varieties, but there is plenty of meat on the Z flat tops. Just remember... Measure twice, cut once. "I cut it twice, and it's still too short." is often heard around my shop. Someday I'll have a pic of a car with uber-round tops installed.

There should be, and I agree with the above. It would be a real shame to a ruin a rust free car in the form of cut-off body parts if it could be legitimately titled instead. If the car was really hers to sell, then you should be able to get the proper paperwork to get it legitimately titled. Keep in mind, however, that just because a buyer calls a car "abandoned", it doesn't make it so. It's not up to the buyer to make that distinction. The NV DMV guidelines state that abandoned vehicles can be removed by a licensed NV wrecker who fills out all the appropriate paperwork and places a lien against the vehicle owner. And if the vehicle was on private property, there's more: "If an abandoned vehicle has been towed as a result of a property owner or property manager's request to remove an abandoned vehicle from their private property, a "PRIVATE PROPERTY ABANDONED VEHICLE RELEASE" (POR) form is required by the Department as proof of a private property abandoned vehicle impound." But back to the original belief that "she" owns the car. You can't "abandon" your own vehicle on your own property. If you're there, then it's not abandoned. You can have your own car hauled off as scrap (and there's forms for that too), but you can't proclaim your own vehicle as abandoned. It's a divide by zero error. So if she truly owns the car outright, then she should be able to sell it to you with the proper paperwork. If this vehicle changed possession (note that I did not say "ownership") with some cash and a handshake between two people, neither of whom names appear on the title, then it didn't really change ownership. If that's how it works, then I could "sell" my neighbor's old car that hasn't been titled for ten years. And there's a name for places that cut up and sell parts of a car that they never truly owned.... Ref: http://www.dmvnv.com/pdfforms/vp263.pdf http://www.dmvnv.com/pdfforms/wreckertow.pdf