Captain Obvious

Sorry... I said rag. I meant cork. I know it's a new radiator: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/58783-overheating-after-modifications-what-am-i-overlooking/

I think there's already supposed to be a spring in the location you mentioned. That spring pulls the linkage to make sure the cables aren't under any tension when the brake is not engaged. But in order for that spring (that far back in the linkage) to prevent the handle from buzzing, you must have the system adjusted such that the handle is always "loaded", and I'm not sure I'm comfortable with that. In other words... I want my handle adjusted such that the first two clicks or so are simply "taking up slack". I don't want the first click to apply brakes. I want to make double dog sure that my brakes aren't dragging, and I'm willing to sacrifice a click or two for that Piece of Mind. My relatively weak topside spring is just enough to load the handle itself so it's held positively at the bottom of travel even when I have a little slack in the rest of the linkage.

Maybe there's a rag stuffed into the radiator connector nipple where the hose connects.

I didn't like my parking brake handle flopping around either so I added a spring. But I put mine topside. Details in this thread (which I just updated with replacement pics): http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/49952-parking-brake-handle-return-spring/

Refreshed thread with new pics. One of the things that's always bugged me was the lack of a return spring on the parking brake handle. The first couple clicks on my car were completely loose and floppy and the handle would rattle a little over bumps when driving because there was really nothing to hold the handle down. So I fixed it... I added a return spring. I messed around with a couple different options and here is the method I thought was the best option. Here's the parking brake assy from the top side. Looks completely normal from the top: But on the bottom side, I drilled a couple holes and made a spring to pull the handle down into the off position, Not a lot of force, but just enough to overcome stiction and the little spring in the warning lamp switch: Here's a couple close-ups of the spring: I gotta say that I really really like the modification. The handle stays down, doesn't rattle, and has much more of a positive feel to it when it reaches the OFF end of travel. It's unobtrusive and doesn't require any other changes to the car. It's all located on the dry clean side and I don't have to worry about the spring rusting or sticking... It's the little things that really increase the sense of driving pleasure!!

Wait... Have I been looking at it all wrong?? I'm thinking "I better hurry... I'm running out of time to do something stupid!"

I wasn't there to confirm the situation, but I have heard the same. I guess if you went back to the dealer a couple times and made a scene, I've heard some would put round tops on it to appease an unhappy customer. All that said, a true stock 73 should have flat tops, as should a 74. I can deal with an early 73 having a set of later design flat tops (since that update is documented in Nissan's literature), but I would start subtracting points for any round top on a 73 or 74 in a stock class. Flat Is Phat!! (I didn't make it up... I'm just promoting it.)

I suspect the different part numbers are because the early 73 cars used a slightly different design than by the time they got to the end of the 260 run. But with all the problems they had with the earliest designs (as discussed in that fuel system modification document) I believe dealers replaced a lot of them with the same design that are on the 260's.

I'm not really sure what you're asking here... If you are asking "if you manually open them by sticking a finger up into the valve to push the diaphragm up, does the valve close quickly when you remove your finger?" If that's the case, then the answer is "It will close as quickly as the air can get back into the chamber at the top of the actuating diaphragm." So, reaching a little and trying to guess what you're really asking... If there is nothing connected to the vacuum nipple and you push it open with a finger, I would expect it to close pretty fast. However, if you've got a piece of vacuum tubing connected to the EGR valve and that tubing leads to a closed off thermal vacuum valve or something, the EGR will close a lot slower. Does any of that make sense? Did I say that right?

Wow. That thing looks great. For three months of work and you've got something to that point already. That's fantastic. BTW - Those anti-squeal shims look just like all the ones I've ever seen. You've never seen that style before? That's the only style I've ever seen. All my hands on experience is with 260s and later. Maybe that's a later design?

The sound of one carb leaking.

The work you did on the throttle plate looks great. Well done! So you think the edge taper angle on the replacement was different than the original? Workmanship... Glad you went back to the original.

Haha!! Oh well. Can't blame me for trying!! I'm glad you're getting such good results. Hope it continues!

Yeah, really! Those things look great! Can I send you my parts too?!! If I brought a box to Zcon, would you have enough time to turn them around for me before I left?

I disagree with that 1000%. The only significant differences between what you have here and the 73-74 carbs is the integral float bowl and the inclusion of a REAL choke. Other than that, those 38mm flat tops are conceptually identical to the Z flat tops. So for all the folks who poo-poo the Z flat tops, but are drooling all over these things..... I got one word. "Hypocrite!"

Oh yeah there are. Maybe the earlier years are worse, but the 280's are not immune. On the other hand, maybe they're just not as bad because of the fuel injection being better than carbs?

Yuck. Sorry for your loss. Did the fire start in the engine compartment? Is that why the corners are pried up? To stick the extinguisher in there?

Story of my life. But we digress. Significantly.

Haha!! Nice! I see what you did there!

Well I wouldn't necessarily give up on the replacement and go back to trying to fix the old drilled one. My biggest issue with the replacement is the burrs. I'm worried that they will gouge the aluminum casting inside the carb throat. But it's not hard to fix. You should be able to dress the burrs off easily with a piece of sandpaper on a hard surface. Couple swipes and they should be cleaned off. Just make sure you don't get too aggressive and remove good material. Keep the corners sharp, but not burred. The rest of the workmanship stuff is annoying, but won't affect performance. Except...... Have you verified that the edges are bevel cut and not straight cut? Can you see the bevel on the original plate?

Nice work! If I were to take all the stuff I thought I would need on the moon, the rocket would never be able to get off the ground.

I'm with Zed Head... I only see one listing in the FSM for an alternator. What am I missing? were there different options for 77's somehow? I know it doesn't really matter, but I'm just curious.

Nice rims. I'm not looking, but I can help prevent you from having to deal with the pisssed off purchaser who bought them expecting six inches... They're five inch rims. You measure the width between the inside tire bead seating surfaces.

In Nevada, one of the definitions of a "Rebuilt vehicle" is one that has had one or more listed major components replaced. NRS 482.098 “Rebuilt vehicle” defined. 1. “Rebuilt vehicle” means a vehicle: (a) That is a salvage vehicle as that term is defined in NRS 487.770, excluding a nonrepairable vehicle; or (b) One or more major components of which have been replaced as set forth in this subsection.......... snip Might not be the way they do it in other states, but that's how they roll in NV.

In Nevada if you mix and match parts from different vehicles, the title should be permanently branded as rebuilt, reconstructed, or specially constructed: https://www.leg.state.nv.us/NRS/NRS-482.html And when you sell a vehicle like that, you are required to disclose the modifications: http://dmvnv.com/pdfforms/vp064.pdf http://www.dmvnv.com/pdfforms/vp104.pdf It's fine as long as you brand the title accordingly. NRS 482.098  “Rebuilt vehicle” defined. 1.  “Rebuilt vehicle” means a vehicle: (a) That is a salvage vehicle as that term is defined in NRS 487.770, excluding a nonrepairable vehicle; or (b) One or more major components of which have been replaced as set forth in this subsection. For the purposes of this subsection, the requisite major components of a vehicle which must be replaced for a vehicle to be considered rebuilt are the: (1) Cowl assembly; (2) Rear clip assembly; (3) Roof assembly; (4) Floor pan assembly; (5) Conventional frame coupled with one additional major component; or (6) Complete front inner structure for a unibody. 2.  The term does not include a vehicle for which the only change is the installation of a truck cab assembly. 3.  For the purposes of this section, “replaced” means the substitution, or change in whole, of a new, used or after-market part of a vehicle. NRS 482.100  “Reconstructed vehicle” defined.  “Reconstructed vehicle” means any vehicle which shall have been assembled or constructed largely by means of essential parts, new or used, derived from other vehicles or makes of vehicles of various names, models or types, or which, if originally otherwise constructed, shall have been materially altered by the removal of essential parts or by the addition or substitution of essential parts, new or used, derived from other vehicles or makes of vehicles. NRS 482.120  “Specially constructed vehicle” defined.  “Specially constructed vehicle” means any vehicle which shall not have been originally constructed under a distinctive name, make, model or type by a generally recognized manufacturer of vehicles.