Captain Obvious

Were you there last year? And if so, did you have your Z, or were you in one of the other cars in the stable?

Awww man. I usually go to that show, but I'm not gonna make it this year! Kinda snuck up on me, and I just can't swing it. Aaaaargh. Would have really enjoyed meeting you.

I'm a fan of the flat tops, but they are more complicated than the round top. And complicated is not "the easiest way". I'd suggest taking the entire intake manifold(s) off and replacing it with the round top rig you have there.

There is no drain on the flat tops.

duplicate

Me too. Glad the work was successful.

I'll go out on a limb and say they didn't, just the last one. The other two probably worked fine, but we spent ten pages trying to solve multiple problems at the same time instead of breaking it into simpler, easier to diagnose parts. Back when the other distributers were in there, the coil wasn't getting power like it should have. So no spark, but because of problems upstream, not the distributer. Then by the time we finally hotwired the thing, we had installed a bad distributer. That's my read.

Try this... 1) Take the valve cover off. 2) Use a screwdriver to set cylinder #1 at TDC while the two front lobes are pointing up. 3) Look at the timing notch on the crank pulley. It should be pointing at zero. At that point, your distributor rotor is pointing at #1 cylinder spark plug wire. If the rotor is pointing at some crazy direction like 8:30, it means that someone put your oil pump drive shaft in the wrong position. You can either simply readjust the spark plug wires to put wire going to #1 at the same crazy angle where the rotor is pointing, or you can drop the oil pump and realign it to where it SHOULD be pointing. My suspicion is that someone dropped the oil pump in the past and when they reinstalled it, they had the engine on TDC #1, but were on the exhaust stroke instead of on #1 compression. I'll admit it... I've done it.

That all depends on the internal design of the ignition switch. Some of them are designed such that the power on the ON terminal drops out when you rotate the key to the START position, and some of them keep the ON terminal hot even when the key is in the START position. It's clear (from the behavior of the car in question) that he has a switch that does not drop out the ON connection, but in fact, keeps that connection hot even when the key is rotated to the START position. Depends on the car year and whether the switch is factory or has been replaced by aftermarket at some time in the past, etc.

HAHAHAHAHA!!! Perfect!

WOOO HOOO!!! Congrats!!! And yes... There's still the issue of the power not making it's way through the tach, but take victory where you can get it!!

Hmmm. Well I think we are hunting for two very different problems, so... My money is on corroded points that never make good contact for the first issue. And a bad connection to the tach, or identifying the wrong B/W wire in the harness as the one coming from the tach for the second. What does the winner get?

That's a great drawing showing the ignition system. With the line showing the firewall in there, it does an excellent job of illustrating why you only need one wire on each end of the ballast resistor and why you don't connect directly from ballast and coil. Shows how the other connections are made inside the harness. Thanks for posting that!

I'm still thinking you are looking tor a bypass style regulator. Maybe this helps? https://www.jegs.com/tech-articles/how-a-fuel-pressure-regulator-with-return-a-bypass-regulator-work/ Have you got any websites with descriptions of what you are calling a back pressure regulator?

Thanks for the details. Beautiful work.

Seriously?? The technology to prevent that has been incorporated into modules for decades. Even the 74 260Z with the stock module has provisions to prevent that. Sheesh. Trying to save $0.10 worth of components??

Just picking nits, but should that have a branded fuel pump? Nikki, or maybe a Kyosan Denki? In any event, it's beautiful. Do you have a pic of the master cylinders (clutch and brake)?

When you say backpressure regulator, are you talking about a bypass style regulator? Hoping maybe its a search term issue?

The pedal should be bottoming out on the brake light switch. The switch has some adjustability, but If you're nowhere near the switch, there's an issue.

Right. At the top of the pedal stroke, you need to assure that the master cylinder returns to it's "at rest" position where the plunger is not pushed in at all. There is a valve inside the master that needs to be actuated when you let the clutch pedal up. If you have things adjusted with the rod too long, you run the risk of having that valve not open when you take your foot off the clutch. You can also cause a clutch riding situation by having the push rod on the slave adjusted too long, but that is strictly mechanical and isn't caused by a hydraulic situation, just simple mechanical. So for clutch adjustment... 1) Set the pedal height with the master disconnected. 2) Adjust the master rod length such that the holes line up for the clevis pin and install the pin. 3) Adjust the slave rod to get engagement where it feels right. I'm no clutch expert, but after being inside a couple different master cylinders and understanding how they work, that's what I do.

There should be power to the coil in both ON and START. During START, it is wired to bypass around the ballast resistor, and in RUN power is wired to go through the resistor.

Haha! Geometry!! It sounds like you have plenty of pedal height now!!

I agree. Moving the pivot ball towards the slave body should make it engage / disengage closer to the floor. So... A related question... What ID master and slave are you using? I think the masters are all 5/8, but I think slaves are available in 11/16 and 3/4. I think you should be running 11/16, but maybe you could change to 3/4 if you can't get satisfaction using just the adjustment on slave rod length.

Couple comments about the above... First comment is that the info you posted above (while all true) does not apply to what grannyknot is experiencing. He is experiencing a clutch engagement at too HIGH of a pedal position, not at too low of a pedal position. Granny is not running out of clutch throw, and in fact he's asking how he could effectively get LESS slave movement, not more. Other comment is I don't agree with the description of the use of the master adjusting rod. The rod is not supposed to adjust the pedal height... It's supposed to ACCOUNT for it. The up-stop bumper is supposed to set the pedal height and then the master rod length should be adjusted such that the holes in the clevis line up with the hole in the pedal. In other words... Set the pedal height first using the bumper, and then adjust the push rod length to account for the hole positions. Rod length should not set pedal height. Does that make sense?