Captain Obvious

There should be, and I agree with the above. It would be a real shame to a ruin a rust free car in the form of cut-off body parts if it could be legitimately titled instead. If the car was really hers to sell, then you should be able to get the proper paperwork to get it legitimately titled. Keep in mind, however, that just because a buyer calls a car "abandoned", it doesn't make it so. It's not up to the buyer to make that distinction. The NV DMV guidelines state that abandoned vehicles can be removed by a licensed NV wrecker who fills out all the appropriate paperwork and places a lien against the vehicle owner. And if the vehicle was on private property, there's more: "If an abandoned vehicle has been towed as a result of a property owner or property manager's request to remove an abandoned vehicle from their private property, a "PRIVATE PROPERTY ABANDONED VEHICLE RELEASE" (POR) form is required by the Department as proof of a private property abandoned vehicle impound." But back to the original belief that "she" owns the car. You can't "abandon" your own vehicle on your own property. If you're there, then it's not abandoned. You can have your own car hauled off as scrap (and there's forms for that too), but you can't proclaim your own vehicle as abandoned. It's a divide by zero error. So if she truly owns the car outright, then she should be able to sell it to you with the proper paperwork. If this vehicle changed possession (note that I did not say "ownership") with some cash and a handshake between two people, neither of whom names appear on the title, then it didn't really change ownership. If that's how it works, then I could "sell" my neighbor's old car that hasn't been titled for ten years. And there's a name for places that cut up and sell parts of a car that they never truly owned.... Ref: http://www.dmvnv.com/pdfforms/vp263.pdf http://www.dmvnv.com/pdfforms/wreckertow.pdf

I know you know this already, but the idle is supposed to happen with the blades completely closed. That's one of the common ways that people who don't understand the flat tops screw them up. As for being embarrassed when you open the hood, I've got a better idea. Do what I did. You've got a lathe, right? ROUND TOPS!!!

Sounds like a great platform for a project, but I'd be careful buying this car. With no title and no way to get in touch with the real owner, I'd be worried about how to actually legally buy the car. What state is the car currently titled in? Most states have provisions for "abandon" vehicles. Is that what this one is?

Yeah, you did OK. A little petty to be feeling left out, but you did OK.

Maybe this will help... They wouldn't go any higher. They would just get there faster. The dampers don't control the height of the pistons, they just slow down the speed of travel. Wood sticks temporarily in place of the dampers would give you a good idea of what's going on inside the carb, but I've got two issues with that technique. First, when you remove the caps, you create a small vacuum leak. The same vacuum that pulls the dampers up is now vented to atmosphere. Might be OK above idle, but I'd be worried about that leak at idle. And second... You won't really get much useful info with the car sitting still under no load conditions. What you really need to do is drive the car with sticks in place and see what the pistons do with a load on the engine. Since the amount of piston rise is linked to engine output, with no load you won't ever get much piston rise. A transient when you blip the throttle yes, but no steady state synchronization info to be gleaned from that scenario.

All of those needles are called ".100 needles" because they are "designed to be used with .100 nozzles." That's just the way they are classified. There are ".090 needles", ".100 needles", and ".125 needles." That's just the family characteristic.

Haha! Was pretty sure someone would pick that one up!

groan x 2. Actually, that was really well done!!

Nice pics. Thanks for the autopsy. So is that a brass seat? The tapered portion at the bottom? Wonder why it don't work no more. Are you sure it don't work no more? It should be open at room temp. You think it never closes? What happens when you warm up the center portion of the guts? In theory, it should get longer when hot.* *I know... Go for it.

I think he forgot the handle. Maybe vandals took it?

And a handy carrying hook! gnosez, what's with the hook? Is that so you can strap the engine to the dolly and lift the whole thing as an assembly without the dolly coming off the bottom of the engine? Or is that just for your upside down coat?

I don't think that's what they're saying with that quote... All three of those categories are stainless. In other words, ferritic, martensitic, and austenitic are all varieties of stainless. So what I get out of that quote is: "As a general rule, ferritic and martensitic varieties of stainless are not as fatigue resistant as austenitic stainless." I'm no materials guy, but I don't think you can glean "carbon steel is more likely to fatigue than stainless" from that quote.

Another data point to help corroborate the lineage. Here's a video where they talk about problems with the oil spray bars. Proof??? Hahaha!!

Haha! My pleasure. Seriously though, if everything on your car is from 72, then you will need the spacers with the extra water holes at the bottom. But if you've got a mix and match of different parts then you'll have to take a look at the parts to figure out what you really need. If everything is installed and on the car, you can reach your hand under the carbs to feel for the extra bulge on the underside where the water passages go. Also, the transition from "four screw round tops" to "three screw round tops" occurred at the same time. 72 used the three screw round tops and have the coolant holes, while everything earlier used the four screw and does not need the extra holes. Of course, many Z owners have completely blocked off and disabled the water flowing through the intake manifolds entirely. So if that's the case for you, then it doesn't matter what you use. Mix and match any carb with any spacer with any intake manifold. If there's no water to leak, then it just doesn't matter. Those holes can hang open to the atmosphere with the only downside being wasp nests in the open holes.

Haha!! Well keep us posted! Beer in one hand, WD-40 in the other? Just don't get them confused!!

This is a great sentiment, and one that I share as well. I've gotten so much help and support from the people here. Thank you all so much!

Methinks he's a hoarder with a house full of Z car parts!!! Duh. And cats.

There are none with six holes. Your choices are five or seven. It's a calling....

Well? Were you able to get that nut off?? Inquiring minds want to know!

Haha!!! I love it! Hey Y'all. Watch this! BTDT.

I wouldn't mind opening one of those up and poking around inside (if someone would send me one for autopsy). I don't have a need, but have always been curious about them.

Sorry, but I can't help you with your original question. I'm curious however... Why are you looking for a Z mechanic in KC when you're in Boston? I'm sure there are plenty of reasonable explanations for the situation, but just wondering.

Chas, Thanks for that closer-up pic of the spring. I think the pic I posted is of your car as well. I had "hoovered" some pics of cars when I was working on fuel line routing and piping, and you had posted a bunch that were quite helpful to figure out how things should be routed. Thanks!!

They brined the roads yesterday here in the Philadelphia area. Fun car driving season is officially over for me until the roads are clean in the spring. Bummer part for me is that it ended with a whimper. I was out with the Z a week or so ago and blew a coolant hose. Limped home and parked it. Didn't get to fixing it yet, so I even lost the last week of "drivability". Missed my chance for a last hurrah of the season. And it just started snowing here in the last five minutes. Sigh.

I feel so "big brothered!!" Decency police run amok.