Captain Obvious

I've heard that reading plugs isn't what it used to be. From what I gather, it's OK for plugs to look leaner than they used to in the past. Ten years ago, the white insulators on 1,2,5, and 6 would be called lean. Some people have cited gas formulation changes that have "shifted" the norm? My highlander for example, the plugs come out looking scary lean, but everyone tells me they look perfect. Scary lean... BTW - Did you know you're running the "wrong" plugs for your year? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/47495-spark-plugs-projected-tips-vs-standard.html

I guess what I'm saying is that if you're dumping so much fuel that the mixture won't light and you're misfiring on all the cylinders 100% of the time, then wouldn't that feel like a switch was flipped? You could wire a small 12V bulb across one of your injectors and hang it out of the engine bay taped to the cowl or something. Drive with it attached and see what the bulb brightness does as you drive. If fuel is being cut, the bulb will go dark. If fuel is being poured in there at great volume, the bulb will glow bright.

My wife thinks that all male humor stagnates at 13 years old.

Thanks Arne. Cool. Next question... Anyone got a 4.5 inch steel wheel from a 70 or 71 Z available? I need just one for my spare.

Wow. Really? Not what I would have expected. I've messed with butyl in some other applications and it's always been a sticky, gooey, very difficult to remove mess. I wonder if (for the sound mat application) they adjusted the composition to reduce the adhesion.

Haha! She's completely correct, of course!

What's the narrowest stock wheel Datsun ever used? 72 FSM says 5 inch, but I don't have manuals earlier than that. Did they ever use anything narrower than 5 inches, or is that the narrowest?

I like the idea of putting in some floor insulation, but I'm not sure I like the idea of butyl... If I ever have to take that stuff out for any reason, isn't it going to be an enormous PITA?

Are you sure you aren't drowning your engine when the ECU gets the WOT signal? You keep thinking that fuel is being cut because the engine misfires... Maybe you're dumping so much fuel at WOT that it just can't light it?

I hear ya. I recently did some serious engine work to our family truckster SUV and it took me quite a while to convince myself that I trusted it again.

"The parts go into a press that applies both heat and pressure to secure the rivet firmly" Then they grind it flush. How It's Made Pliers - YouTube I love that show...

Cool! Sounds like you finally got it licked? How long till you really trust it and blow the "all clear" whistle?

Excellent. Glad to hear that it was that simple. Surprised, but glad!! I've got an air cleaner housing laying around here somewhere... Next time it turns up, I'll snap a pic of the rear and label all the tubes and connections. Something I've been meaning to do for a while now. This isn't the first time something like this has come up. Now you need to cap all those unused fittings on the rear or the air cleaner or you need to reinstall the equipment that's supposed to connect to them. With them hanging open, you're sucking unfiltered air right into your carbs. You download the service manual yet?

It's clear with the earlier fuel rail and the other changes that someone has been messing around in there. Makes me wonder if someone had swapped round tops into there at some time in the past and then went back to the flat tops? "I believe the top one is the Anti back fire valve? What do the other 2 go to?" The large top nipple is supposed to go to the anti-backfire valve. The lower large one went to the air pump. On 74, the smaller one I think went to the thermostatic control on the air cleaner. I believe they moved that control valve around a little depending on year, so I'm wondering... Are you sure you've got the original air cleaner for your year, or maybe someone swapped a 74 air cleaner onto your car? "The hose that goes off camera have a screw in it capping it off. where is it supposed to go?" That small hose also went to the anti-backfire valve. It was the control signal that told the anti-backfire valve to open when the vacuum got very high.

Awesome. I'm jealous!

Beautiful car, and mostly original. Do not fear the flat tops. Keep it original. There are those on the forum who can help if needed. On a related note... With the flat tops, there is just one idle speed control screw, not two. So if you're looking at two similar looking screws thinking they're the idle speed control, then you're looking at the wrong thing. I suspect you're looking at the synchronization screws, not idle speed. The idle speed control is on the balance tube between the big arse bolt you're using to plug where the anti-backfire system is supposed to connect and the EGR control diaphragm. Hidden below the black hose that connects your valve cover to the air cleaner backing plate. Do not fear the idle control screw either. It's predicable and is reversible. Same cannot be said, however, if you start screwing with the sync screws. However, I doubt the cause of your idle issues is simply that the idle speed control screw is out too far. I bet you've got rotten air tubes, leaky gaskets, vacuum leaks, etc. You know... 40 years of being a Z.

Could you? Sure. No problem. Should you? Probably not.

Haha! Good idea. Anyone who wants more detail will have to come to the laboratory at my flat.

I love that movie. I throw out quotes every now and then, and the best I can hope for is blank stares of "no idea what you're talking about". Worst that happens is I wizz someone off... So is it there yet?????

Blue, I guess I haven't seen the appropriate thread? Haha! Is there such a thing as an appropriate thread for that? Maybe I should make a second? Those kind of things usually run in pairs, right? You're welcome anytime. I can't promise any genius, but the shop is still there!

madkaw Absolutely! I'd love it! Moorestown is probably 45 minutes from me. You know you really should see your parents more often... :classic:

Haha!! Seems everyone is telling me that now that I look like that guy. I first heard that a couple months ago and didn't even know what they were talking about. Then I saw one of the commercials. Now I gotta grow the full beard back and buy one of those red Captain's uniforms. siteunseen, So you're thinking that you can lure Blue to your place by taking down the cell infrastructure in your area? Have you tried putting out a plate of yogurt and Labatts? That's what worked for me. PS - Blue, Notice I'm rockin' my Atlantic Z hat!!!

rossiz, The pleasure was all mine! I had a great time and I think it's wonderful to be able to put faces with the names. A "non-relative" diversion from the typical. It was great fun! I'm glad you thought my car handled so well. I did put a lot of effort into it, but remember... All I did was make it work "right", or "as designed". It's all freshly installed and done with great care, but it's nothing fancy. Rubber bushings, KYB struts, stock springs. I just fixed what was wrong and made it perform like it SHOULD. What I'm trying to say is... You got an example of (what I hope is) a well done stock setup. I have to imagine lowered with performance struts, springs, and sway bars would be that much better. So thanks again for letting me distract you for a couple hours! PS - You haven't sliced carbs open, have you? That would be too scary. :paranoid:

Glad that it's working, but you know the problem will come back, right? Were you able to determine if it's a mechanical "needle sticking" or if it's an electrical problem?

Sounds great! What seats are those?