Captain Obvious

I'd not heard that you could use the Sportage weather stripping on the rear hatch as well. Fits OK back there too?

Absolutely. PM me some details and timing and I'll make sure the schedule is cleared.

Awesome. There seems to be lots of roadster action in my area. Not sure why, but I'm always seeing stuff on Craigslist near me. I've never driven a roadster so I don't know anything about them other than they're pretty. Are they "unrefined" in the creature comfort category? And what's the performance reputation?

My mind to your mind... my thoughts to your thoughts... :bulb: Geoffrey and Blue, Can you guys picture today's hair brained projects? Forgot... How about some detail on those way-cool comforts? And I've got a long history with green Zs. I wish my current one was a deep green...

:laugh: Very nice. I can picture him packing: "Let's see... Got directions to customer site, boarding pass, toothpaste, underwear, list of Z owners in the area..."

There sure is. Maybe the supply side doesn't have enough capacity to provide what the engine needs under extended high load conditions and you're sucking the bowls dry at high load? You can check that by temporarily replacing the line between the bowl and the nozzle with a clear line and make sure you aren't pulling bubbles through. Another option would be to "T" that line with clear line to use as a level gauge and actually monitor the bowl level while the engine is running. In theory, that level should never change. Fire extinguisher handy... :bulb:

Wow... Would have never imagined it would be difficult to get a Fram G3. Anywhere! How about a Purolator F20118? Web research indicates it's their cross for the Fram G3 Part Detail Popup And as for two G2's in parallel... I believe the internals for all of the similar sized and shaped filters (G2, G3, G12) are all the same. So if you're doing two of them in parallel for throughput, I doubt it's necessary.

Yes, the G3 (Fram P/N G3) is the plastic low pressure filter on the suction side of the fuel pump. Cheap and ubiquitous. I wanted something transparent so I could monitor for crud coming out of the tank. I've not had a problem that I know of, but I figured I was in that deep, I might as well do it at that same time.

Here's some pics of the parts I used in the rear. Rear control arm inner bushing location: Rear inner forward side bushings from Nissan (sourced through MSA): Rear inner trailing side bushings from Nissan (sourced through MSA): Rear control arm outer bushing location: Rear outer bushings from Raybestos: I got the rear inner bushings from MSA. I got the rest of the bushings and hard front end parts from Rock Auto. And I got the KYB inserts from JC Whitney.

I used check valve Bosch part number 1 587 010 539 and a flare fitting fuel hose from an Audi A4 or A6. Sorry, but I didn't take note of exactly which Audi the hose was from because it looked like they used the same hose. They were all over the place at my junkyard, but maybe that was just me. Thinking you couldn't possibly go wrong, I didn't keep great notes there. Next time I'm at the junkyard, I'll make sure I note some models and years that have suitable hoses. I've got the pump back on the car and also took the opportunity to install a G3 between the tank and the pump. My original pump inlet filter screen was gone and I didn't want to send any junk into my newly installed check valve. Here's my install:

That's great news! My car is back together as well, but it's not yet been hot enough here to get a handle on what the hot start behavior is like now that I've done the check valve and the pump work. On the road performance is great though, but that was never the issue. I originally started this looking for hot start gremlins. So what happened with the Audi fuel hose? It wasn't long enough to reach from the check valve to the fuel dampener? Mine was actually longer than I needed and I cut excess off the plain end. And that's even counting the strain relief loop like the original design. Yours wasn't long enough to do that?

I have. Never figured out exactly what was going on, but I finally got them "close enough" and stopped messing with them. Blue and I were talking about it a while ago... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/su-carb-discussions/46778-fuel-bowl-level-bending-tab-not-working.html

txv, you funny too. Not hot enough back by the pump to vaporize the fuel. Vapor lock - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

It apparently goes both ways... Here's some :stupid: from Portland advertising in the New York City Craigslist. 1978 Datsun 280z 5spd w/ fact. A/C

Great timing! As of yesterday my 77 280 just saw it's first miles back on the road since last November. I did a whole bunch of suspension work during the off season and just finished. Keep in mind that I'm no suspension expert, but I'm very happy with the results. Biggest thing for me is that it's now "predictable". Not a road hugging track star, but it's doing what it's supposed to do now which is a huge improvement over what I started with. First off... For struts, I put KYB struts on all four corners. Then in the front, I did a whole bunch of work to my steering rack: Lots of details in this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/suspension-steering-s30/51640-steering-rack-disassembly-refurb.html In addition to all the steering rack work, I also replaced the front control arm bushing, outer tie rod ends, and ball joints. Front control arm bushing location: Front control arm bushings from Raybestos. (Short side towards the front): Front ball joints from MOOG (make sure all the mating surfaces are clean of rust and debris): Front outer tie rod ends from MOOG (non-interchangeable between sides. Threads are opposite): I'll post some info on the work I did to the rear suspension as well, but I have to get more pics uploaded first.

Unless you've now got your heart set on the tinted ones... I've got a set of NOS clear covers from MSA if you're interested. Bought them for a Z a while ago but sold the car before I installed them. Still wrapped up in the box. LMK if you're interested? Save some bucks?

I'm not sure you did the calibration correctly... I think you have to use a Canadian beer. :bulb: Seriously though, I wish I could tell if my AFM has been messed with. I've looked it over from every angle, and even with magnification, I can't tell for sure. I've got no glue blobs or marks that would indicate one way or the other. My cover had been popped by a previous owner, but I can't tell for sure what (if anything) he did in there.

I'm unclear still if it's vacuum, electrical related, or strictly mechanical... Warm it up to the point where it starts hanging. Once it's warm enough and starts exhibiting the problem, open the hood and rev the engine by grabbing the throttle linkage all the way back at the pivot point by the firewall. Then drop the RPM's slowly by releasing the linkage gently. The object is to get it to hang. Then once it's hanging, grab the linkage right at the throttle body and manually force the throttle body butterfly closed. Does it still hang while you're forcing the throttle body closed, or do the RPM's drop like they should? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/fuel-injection-s30/48078-sticky-throttle-body-hanging-idle.html

I don't know Zed... I don't see any misrepresentation there. That relay clearly says "No Good" on the outside of it. Truth in advertising! PS - Holy crap!!

Woof. That's no fun. How many miles do you have to go? I'll reset the odometer for you if you want to ship it to me. If you have to go only a couple miles, then no biggie, but if you've got to go halfway around the dial, that's a lot of drilling!

Ugh... If your diaper if that bad, I can just imagine what the kid's looks like...

Congrats Len!!

Lenny, Another data point... My spare 77 ECU has no such internal pull-ups. I've got a snubber to ground to squelch inductive kickback from the injectors and I've got 1.5Ks that go from the emitters of the output Darlington to (and only to) pins on the main ECU connector. Pins 11 and 26? I'm thinking they are test port connections to probe the action of the outputs without connecting directly to the injectors.

There is an enrichment circuit built into the ECU which adds extra fuel while the engine is cranking. It tails off over the next thirty seconds or so after the key is released back to ON. But other than that, I'm not aware of anything different about firing the injectors between START and ON. My money is on fuel, but just a quick test to make sure? Pull a vacuum hose and give a quick shot of starter fluid into the intake manifold? Should pop on that for a few seconds if there's spark. Another idea would be to disconnect one of the bullet connectors going to the temp sensor (either one will work) and then try to start it. This will fool your ECU into thinking your engine is Antarctica stone cold and add extra fuel accordingly. Pull it and see if it will start then. It'll billow clouds of smoke if it starts, but while it's running you can then reconnect the sensor bullet. Doubtful. He says the fuel pressure looks good even when the problem is occurring.

Yeah, that doesn't look good. It may be just me, but I find noises very hard to identify through a youtube video. I'm not sure where the detail is lost, but by the time it goes into your camera and out my crappy little computer speakers, I'm doubtful I'm getting a good representation of what you're hearing. However... There's no doubt that the blue cloud out the tailpipe is not good news. Compression test next maybe?