Captain Obvious

If I were doing a project like this, I would simply control the fuel pump with the new digital ECU. After all, the signal required to control the fuel pump is already available at the ECU connector. The original ECU doesn't do anything with that signal, but it's available.

I usually follow mine up with a resounding shout of "I did NOT just do that!!" :stupid: That's a pretty good one, BTW! Haha!! A philosophy that I quote often as well.

Someone want to give this guy a call and find out just how many decimal points he slipped? Sounds like it might be a nice car, but the price is clearly screwy! rare 1970 240z He says it "won't last long". I suspect at $300K, it will last longer than forever...

Corroded battery cable(s). Clean the connections between the lugs and the posts?

Called it!! :laugh: Welcome back and good luck with the project.

Awesome!! Hard to believe that your fuel rail is picking up enough heat to boil the fuel, but can't contest the results of getting rid of it!

I've got a 77 280 and I'm planning the mounting of some relays for various improvements to the electricals, but I haven't yet decided where to physically mount the relays. Problem is that my car doesn't have A/C, but I would like to add it someday, so I don't want to mount anything in a location that would be taken by an A/C component, so... I'm looking for some good engine bay pics of a 77 with A/C that is mostly stock. I'm primarily interested in the passenger side of the engine bay and/or the firewall on the same side since that's where I think I want mount my relay block. Anyone help me out with some pics?

First post? Been a member for over a year, and this thread is the one that stepped you out of the shadows? Pssssst.... Enjoy the oil pan!

I've had similar troubles getting the float levels correct on round tops, and I don't have an answer either. I understand how the float and the valve work. There's no rocket science there and the geometry is simple. And that simplicity is what makes it so frustrating. Too low, adjust. Still too low, adjust more, and now overflowing out the vent nipple. After much fiddling, I got my fuel levels within a mm or two (low) and called it a day. I have since switched to a FI car so I haven't looked back to analyze the situation more to figure out what was really really going on. I'm not sure how much of a difference 5mm would make, but there are some people who say CV carbs are very sensitive to fuel level in the nozzle area and others who say they are very fault tolerant to float levels. I'm no expert on the topic, but physics dictates that it would take more energy to lift the fuel up out of the bowl and into the stream the farther it had to lift it. Everyone seems to agree that you would run leaner the lower the level, but the magnitude of the impact is up for debate. If you're running so low that you suck air at high G turns, then that's a different issue. The flat tops have about 50% more bowl volume than the round tops. Coincidence?

And BTW, in your application, both the sight glass and the plug covering the fuel screen are on the side of the carb that is sandwiched between the carb and the distributor. That's why I was saying earlier that you might not be able to even get to that side with the carb installed the way you have it mounted.

I'm not sure how you got the car to run with the bottom of the carb off, but whatever... Sounds like the filter screen is passing fuel and the float and valve are working. Doesn't tell you much about the level of fuel in the bowl when the float is in control though. Here's a pic that should answer your questions: As for the sight glass, the target level moved depending on the year, but since you're so far off the flight line, I would set them right at the center of the window and see what happens:

Did you look for the sight glass on the float bowl and the filter screen on the fuel inlet? The sight glass could help diagnose a fuel delivery issue, and if confirmed, the filter screen could be the cause.

Mike, I've got the bias you described. On my 5 speed, the return force away from 5/R is greater than the return force away from 1/2. It's not enough to prevent me from clipping reverse, but I do have that bias.

There is no fuel outlet on the stock carb. There is, however, a small screen fuel filter as the last line of defense against dirt as fuel enters the carb. With your sideways mount, it's on the side of the carb over by the distributor. If you had crud in the line, that filter is probably plugged. There is also a sight glass window into the float bowl that is used to verify the bowl has the correct amount of fuel in it. Now I don't know if you'll be able to get a view of it mounted that way, but it's worth a try. What an odd setup you've got there... If you're planning to continue to run that system, my advice would be to read, read, and read some more. The number of people who believe in the flat tops are few, and a turbocharged setup using just one of them???? You better learn to work on it yourself!!!

Awesome. So you should be all set until your door locks start acting up. :laugh:

That's the same car as the Craigslist ad I posted above. They drug the car out of the weeds and took some pictures in the open. It doesn't look any better in the light of day....

You could have pulled the spherical post out instead of cutting the washer. Put some Loctite on it when you put it back together, and it should hold. The REAL elegant solution would be to make a new stud with a larger ball on the end... That would be the most time consuming alternative! Here's a thread with some other related pics:

Haha! Yes they are! It would sure be sturdy and fuel resistant!! As mentioned above, one of the things that makes the Nitrophyl work is the fact that if done correctly, it skins over on the outside to produce a protective and non absorptive shell. "NITROPHYL material is transformed from a solid material to a hard, cellular structure by a two-step molding process. The outside layers, which are in contact with the hot surfaces of the cavity, produce a hard, smooth outer surface. The inside acquires a closed-cell structure. This distinctly different shell or "skin" protects the cell structure and adds to the mechanical strength of the part. NITROPHYL floats are also abrasion-resistant and capable of reproducing cavity details with sharp resolution in a wide range of sizes." NITROPHYL Design Guide I'm no plastics guy and I don't know if Rogers Corp sells the Nitrophyl compound in a resinous form, but it does appear they currently hold the trademark on the Nitrophyl name. I didn't look deeply enough to determine if they want to make their money selling resin or selling floats, (or both). I also didn't dig to see if there were other "generic" compounds of foamed NBR available from other sources or if Rogers Corp had a stranglehold on the technology.

That stuff from McMaster would be about as hard as a shoe heel and difficult to machine, but you guys are missing the most important tricky part... It's solid and it won't float. The tricky part to the Nitrophyl is that it's a FOAMED Buna-N, not solid. According to Rogers, you can machine and glue Nitrophyl sections together to make a float, but it's not as simple as taking a solid hunk of typical Buna-n (like what McMaster offers) and trying to hog out a float.

"For over 40 years, Rogers Corporation has been the leader in the design and production of liquid level floats where resistance to gasoline, oil, and other hydrocarbons is essential. The key is in our NITROPHYL® NBR (Buna-N) Technology." Rogers Corporation NITROPHYL-Floats

Cool. Let me know. Here's the grind stamp on that cam:

I've got an internally oiled "A" grind cam and all the valve train bits from an N47 if someone needs a cam. Came from an early ZX motor that I'm parting out. $80 shipped east of the Mississippi, $85 west. Cam, rockers and retainer springs, lash pads, adjuster balls and their mounts. I kept all the bits for each lobe segregated and packed up independently so you know what goes where when putting it together.

Gotcha covered with the L28... $100: I haven't pulled the bottom end apart, so I can't tell you how the bearings look, but I have no reason to believe there's anything wrong with it. I can I tell that there's no wear ridge at the top of the cylinders and the crank spins smooth and easy. Piston tops also look fine. You can open it up at my place if you wish, but for the price, you can hardly go wrong! I'm probably between one and two hours from you. PM me for more details?

You don't need your locksmith to tell you if it can be reyeked... You'll know as soon as you try to insert your blank. If your blank slips in, you should be able to key it to what you need. If your blank won't go in at all, you're still on the hunt for the correct one. Fingers crossed for you! Another option I just thought about if you get desperate. You could use the longer cylinder (the one with seven tumblers) and just not populate all the positions. Just put six tumblers in it and it will operate just like the shorter cylinder. Locksmith will probably hate that idea... Only thing is that I'm not sure a longer cylinder will fit properly in the housing designed for the shorter one. Just musing at this point.

I messed around a little and based on the pattern of URL's they used for the sections, I've verified that section 7 is there. It's just not linked to correctly. If you enter the address manually: You can get to section 7 here Section 8, however, is truly MIA. (Maybe because it's "Section 8?")