Captain Obvious

Haha! I had the exact same thought when I saw this other Craigslist ad: 1976 Datsun 280z 2+2 barn find When you say "Barn Find", the implication is that the car was INSIDE the barn, not simply the fact that there is a barn on the same property!! I mean, this is ridiculous!! If you look closely, you can see parts of some wooden structure in the background of some of the pics. One can only assume that it's a barn?:stupid:

Did a little digging and I didn't find definitive info, here's some stuff that may help. Here's an older thread talking about the early key blanks with some pics: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/help-me/12182-ignition-lock.html Here's a snipped from the parts fiche showing the different key blanks: Datsun 240Z/260Z/280Z Blank Key It appears that the very early cars had single cut keys with grooves on one side only. There were multiple different key blanks for these early locks. You don't have this style and I don't know much about them. Then at some time, they switched to the reversible key type that was cut on both sides which doesn't matter which way you insert it into the locks. This is what you have. On the parts fiche, it indicates that these reversible styles came in "left" and "right". I'm thinking that there might only be two versions of your blank, L and R. And as a side note, I can't get sections seven or eight of the parts fiche at xenons30.com to work. Is it just me, or is there something wrong with them?

Oh, and BTW, Taylor is a brand of key blanks, and the X6 or X7 can be used to determine if it's for the six or seven tumbler design. You can use the longer blank on the shorter locks... You'll just have more unused shank sticking out of the lock. The reverse (using the shorter to work a longer cylinder) might not work because you'll probably run out of length. I hate when that happens.

Glad to help. I'll try to dig up where I read about the four different key blanks. I wasn't too concerned with the early locks because I've got the later longer style so most of my research centered around that style instead. Let me see what I can dig up...

Mike, If you do in fact end up with baggies of both parts instead of singles, I'd gladly take one of each off your hands and split your cost 50/50. Keep us posted!!

You got issues. I'm no locksmith or expert on Z lock genealogy, but from my searching and reading... When the Z first came out, they used a six tumbler lock shell. I believe there were four different shells available and each required a different key blank to fit. That means there were four possible keys and six tumbler positions for each key. All the lock shells look the same from the outside, and that's why your locksmith said it "looked like the right one". That's because it DID "look" like the right one. Problem is that you can't see inside with just a picture and you can't tell what key blank it needs. Then sometime along the years, they switched to a seven tumbler shell and I believe there were two different shells requiring different key blanks. That means there were two possible keys and seven tumbler positions for each key. As you could probably imagine, the seven tumbler shells are longer than the six tumbler shells and that's where the "long" and "short" designations come from. Sounds from your discussions with your locksmith that your car uses one of the older "short" six tumbler shells. If your goal is to continue to use one key to operate all the locks on the car, you must first determine the correct key blank for your locks and then find an ignition lock shell designed that same key blank. I don't know if parts still exist to do that, but it sounds from your locksmith that he can't get them. If you've smashed the depth locator feature inside your lock by hammering on the key, you're lucky it works at all with any amount of wiggling. You need a new lock shell and tumblers. If you can't find the correct shell for your current key blank, you're going to have to carry two keys or change all the other locks to the same new blank as your new ignition lock. I suspect you'll have the same issue there... You won't be able to find door locks or trunk locks that will work with the same key blank.

As it should be. That's the second function of the spring and rocker bar I mentioned above. When the key is inserted and turned off "LOCK" for the first time, that rocker bar latches the locking mechamism out of the way until the key is completely removed. The snap you hear is when the rocker bar unlatches the lock mechanism and lets the lock snap into place. Glad they found it!

Zed Head, I'm not sure you missed anything... Mike says his five speed has two ears on the rear housing which according to this site (Differential Ratios) means that it is an early five speed from a Z: I've got two ears on mine as well, so I'm thinking that Mike and I have the same genre. So does that revelation do anything to the suggestions about what to do about clipping reverse on the way out?

Haha! Great... That's one of the ones that's on it's way to me! I bought one of those, and one of the Bosch units that's threaded on both ends thinking that I might be able to modify it to fit better. Sorry, but here's to hoping that your issue is somewhere else! :classic: To test the check valve on the supply side, clamp the line from the fuel filter TO the fuel rail. To test the FPR, clamp the return line FROM the fuel rail back to the tank. The OTHER line over by the fuel filter. If you clamp them both at the same time and you still lose pressure, then you've got a leaking injector, cold start valve, or are leaking fuel through the FPR into the vacuum control line connected to your intake manifold.

I'll be watching your progress with this as I frequently clip reverse coming out of 5th. I've been inside trannys in the past and it annoys the crap out of me that I do this when I so much know better. I don't know if a stiffer detent spring would fix it, but if it does help and is that easy to put in, that would be excellent! Zed Head, What do you mean by "feature"? Do you mean the feature of clipping reverse on your way from fifth to fourth? Or the feature of having an anemic detent?

Thanks for the tip. Solenoid valves are easy to find. Solenoid valves that are guaranteed to be compatible with gasoline (and ethanol) aren't so easy to find.

I've got a couple ebay check valves on order. Should be here soon, but in the meantime, I had another idea... Anyone have leads on a car that used an electrically controlled SOLENOID VALVE on the fuel supply? Something that electrically blocks or allows the flow of fuel through it based on an electrical signal. If something like that exists, I could easily wire that into the system such that it will only allow fuel flow when the engine needs it. I've seen devices like that used in the vapor recovery system, but I've not seen one used to actually control liquid flow. So, anyone ever seen such a device used for gasoline control?

Gotcha. Well if I get into mine and find that it can be repaired, I'll take some shots.

I would like to drop back just a little and double check something... A lot of 280's have hot start issues and it's usually fuel related. I know you said there's no spark when this problem is occurring, but are you positive, no question, absolutely know for sure that it's an electrical problem and not a fuel problem? Are you sure that the timing light while cranking is a good indication of spark? Did you try the timing light when it's NOT hot and get flash?

Thanks for that link. I don't know yet if I'll need to do the flexible line, but I've got no reason to believe that mine would be any different than anyone else's. I'll hopefully get to this project in the next week or so. I'll keep you posted.

Thanks TomoHawk. I just recently finished a radio install, so now I need a working antenna. Mine goes "up" sorta. I haven't tried to run it all the way up to the clutch slip. I don't trust it. It picks up enough stations to keep me occupied until I can take it out and give it the once over. When that time comes, I'll probably be back with questions about where you got your mast, etc.

Yeah, that's probably what I'll do to start. Get one of those and turn the barbs off. It'll either be that, or something from McMaster. They have brass bodied check valves with fluoroelastomer (Viton) seals for about the same price. They're likely higher quality than the ebay valves, but the only problem is that they are all NPT on both ends, so I'm back to more fittings and adapters and joints that can leak. If I had other stuff I needed from McMaster right now, it would be a no-brainer, but I don't think I need anything else from them at this time.

Here's the flanged one I was talking about. Here's an example on Amazon: NEW OEM MAZDA FUEL TANK CHECK VALVE : Amazon.com : Automotive Looks great, but at $56, it's pricy:

Haha! The results of your searching look very similar to the results of my searching! I don't like the barbs, but could get over it if that's all I can find. I could turn all the barbs off except the two at the tips, or I'm sure I could just use it as is if I'm not that energetic. Hadn't seen the one from the Alfa before. Looks as good as the Mazda, but I bet the case is made from unobtainium. I went to the local parts store and talked to them about Mazda check valves, and they couldn't find anything. Also couldn't find anything on Rock Auto. I'm trying to avoid joining that forum just to ask questions about valves. There was one more that I turned up that had hose nipples on both ends and a mounting tang with a single screw hole in it that was used to screw it to the fender well. I'll see if I can find that one again...

Forgot to address the 1587010532 valve... This valve is not a good choice for our application. Not specifically because it's threaded on both ends, but more so because it's designed to be used with a banjo fitting on the outlet side. Think "banjo connector onto the fuel rail". There are other check valves that are threaded on both ends that would be better choices because they are simple pass throughs. You could either screw a conversion fitting onto the outlet to convert to hose, or you could turn the outlet threads smooth on a lathe and clamp a hose where the threads used to be. All that said, I'm still thinking that a stand alone in-line valve up in the engine compartment would be a better idea. Not only for future serviceability, but because you could put it downstream of the filter. From what I've read in search, it's usually dirt from the tank that contaminates the original valve's seat and stops if from sealing. So why don't I jump on the generic Airtex valve that was suggested above? Because it's got too many leakable joints. I want something that's native hose and clamp connection. Something like this one mentioned in this thread on an RX7 forum: (FUEL) How To: Diagnose your fuel return line check valve - RX7Club.com

Haha! How about you send me your old one so I can see what I can do with it? If I can fix one, I should be able to fix two of them! I'm like this close to making a new one from scratch... :pirate:

Right. It's already been determined that the one on the left is correct... For a 240. But I've got a 280 and the antenna looks like the one on the right. I have no idea if it's factory or if a PO has replaced it some time in the past. What I'm trying to determine is... Is the one on the right correct for a 280? It's either factory, or both of us ended up with the exact same aftermarket unit? Certainly conceivable they're both aftermarket from the same company. I doubt there are too many mfgr's out there, right? Also conceivable that they're both factory 280 units.

Neat idea about the tubing over the jaws to protect the hose you are pinching. I used the same needle-nosed Vice Grips, but without the protective sheath. It worked, but it left a "soft spot" in the hose where it is now easier to squeeze than it used to be. Not really a problem though, because it's between the filter and the rail, and I'll be replacing that piece after I spend 100 fruitless hours messing with the check valve back at the tank and finally give up. You know... After I've spilled gas everywhere, got dirt in my eyes, and almost burned the garage to the ground. :paranoid:

I've got an antenna just like the one on the right in this pic. There are no Nissan or Datsun markings on it. Was it ever determined if the one on the right is from a later year or is it an aftermarket unit? Zombie thread resurrection... That's what "search" is for!!

Ummmm... Have you not seen my body of work? Thanks for the part numbers. I've seen lots of product offerings that have threads on both ends. I could easily turn off the threads on one end and set it up for tubing instead., but I would have to know what the threads are that go into the pump (and that's one of the reasons for my thread investigation above). Yeah, Napaonline is no fun. I don't like their website either.