Captain Obvious

Haha. Thanks! As projects go, this was a more complicated one. Here's a couple more shots. The obligatory "close up": One of the things that always seems to be a weakness with the aftermarket stuff is the way the adapters always look goofy. Accordion rubber bellows and all that stuff... I never liked that look at all. With that in mind, here's a side shot so you can see how the new wheel blends in with the stock column.

I was between a 300ZX and an MR2. This is my car: This isn't at the show... This is a pic I took afterwards because I'm getting ready to put my wheels up for sale. The only pics I took were of other 280's engine bays. I'm still working on undoing a bunch of stuff that my previous owner did. He took a lot of stuff apart and didn't get everything back to where it should be and I'm using others as examples of where stuff like wiring harnesses go. Wanna buy a set of vgc wheels and tires? :bulb:

The steering wheel on my 280 has seen better days. The foam along the top started to degrade like they all do, and the whole wheel was squishy, especially when hot. I looked into options and finally decided on a wheel from the 90 300ZX. This wheel was used on the first year 90-96 Z (the only year without an air bag) and also on a couple years of 240SX. Why this wheel? Because I wanted something that "looks like it belongs". I didn't want a fancy multi-colored racing style wheel or a small quick turn go-kart wheel. I wanted something that looked "right". "Appropriate." Something that could be mistaken for factory. And as a bonus... It's still a Z wheel: There were several hurdles in getting this thing to fit the old Z, but the biggest challenge is that the spline design is different and the new Z wheel doesn't fit the old Z steering column. I made new hub with correct splines, cut off the original 300ZX hub, and welded on my hub in it's place. Here's the hub I made. Aluminum test piece on left, steel real piece on right: Back of 300ZX / 240 SX wheel: Cut off original hub: Welded my hub on. I'm no welder, but it's secure. Note the two prongs to cancel the turn signals: Bottom line? The results are fantastic! Overall size is almost identical to stock as is the distance from the driver. The leather grip portion is firm and much thicker and meatier than stock which feels much better to me than any of the first gen wheels. Was a lot of work, but I'm very happy with the results.

Yeah, you were clearly rushed and I completely understand. I would have tried my Z on the autocross, but it just wasn't worth the risk. As I got on the Turnpike that morning I came to the realization that the trip to Carlisle that morning was the single longest trip I've ever taken with that Z! It was also the only time so far that it's seen highway speeds for an extended period of time. Thankfully it made it to the show and back home again without so much as a hiccup!

OK, so I'm of limited use here... I know very little about the aftermarket stuff. Where is the timing advance curve being introduced? Mechanically in the distributor, or electronically in the HEI module? Surely not both, right?

Fred, Sorry... I should have figured out a way for us to meet up at the show. We probably saw each other there without even knowing it! :disappoin Have you got your pics uploaded anywhere?

I'm thinking that it was an un-documented mid-year change in 73 and your car is configured more like a 74. Especially since you don't have the thermostatic switch inside the cabin. And if that's the case, you're right... The temp switching points are nowhere near where you need them. From the FSM, the water temp switch characteristics are as follows (EC-28): Off (open) below 88 F On (closed) above 106 F And that's if the switch even still works at all. Mine didn't. As for pulling it out, it's pretty high up. You don't have to drain a lot of coolant to get below the level of that switch. Maybe a gallon? Sorry, but I don't remember what the threads look like. I don't even remember if they are straight or tapered.

So what are you currently running for ignition? What's the system look like?

That looks like the "Water Temperature Switch", but here's the problem... 73's aren't supposed to have one. According to the FSM's that wasn't supposed to have started until 74. (Not that they aren't without mistake though, so who knows) Here's a bunch of info about the water temp switch. Read through this and see if it makes sense. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/46647-water-temp-switch-what-does.html

Made it home safe and sound. Great show! Wish there was more of a forum presence there... Would like to meet other members. Thanks Chuck. And I had a great time chatting with Ed as well. Please thank him again for me as well.

Nobody else even going?

msglength

I'm not sure why they picked the fuel cut points they did, but I find it "harsh". By that, I mean... If you pull your foot off the gas at 3500 RPM and let the fuel cut feature kick in, the engine braking effect from 3500 down to 2800 is much more pronounced than if the fuel had not been cut off. Makes perfect sense since the engine is a complete load instead of supplying some power. In fact, once the RPMs drop and you hit the bottom of the hysteresis band at 2800 or so, you can feel when the fuel starts flowing again. However, I'm used to the "normal" engine brake coasting effect like what occurs in other cars, and the fuel cut induced "uber braking" above 3200 is uncomfortable. It's too steep of a curve and I'm glad they didn't do that everywhere. As for the Pathfinder... Is it automatic? In automatics, the engine braking effect is always smaller because there's slip in the hydraulic drivetrain. They might be able to get away with a full time complete fuel cut because the drive train slip will prevent you from feeling like you're gonna smash your face on the windshield every time you let off the gas. (Have we strayed far enough from the OP's question yet? )

So what happened when you plugged the AAR inlet into the manifold? Did the idle drop to where it's supposed to be once the engine is warm? My original AAR was intermittent. Tricky part was that it always tested fine on the bench when cold, but went "open" once up to full temp. So I know you already replaced your AAR with new and I would hope (assume?) that the new AAR does not have an internal problem. It might, but let's hope not, so... How about the 40 year old cracked, crusty wiring and loose, corroded connectors leading TO the AAR? Maybe there's an intermittent connection somewhere?

African or European?

Hey Zed, I'm sure you know this, but just wanted to make sure it was clear to everyone else. The fuel cut function kicks in anytime the RPM's are above 3200 and the idle switch portion of the TPS is closed. This can occur at 3200, 4000, 5500... Anything above 3200. And once the fuel cut function HAS kicked in there is some hysteresis such that it will not kick out until either a) the idle switch is opened or the RPM's drop below 2800. Maybe it's just me, but I found your description misleading. Made it sound like the fuel cut was only active in the band between 3200 and 2800, and that's not the case. It's anywhere above 3200.

I didn't say anything about coasting in neutral, and neither did the FSM. In the FSM, when they say "The Boost Controlled Deceleration Device (B.C.D.D.) is employed to reduce HC emissions during coasting." They aren't talking about coasting in neutral. By "coasting" what they mean is "moving down the road with your foot not on the gas pedal". In other words, "Letting the wheels drive the engine instead of vice-versa." Question - What's the difference between "coasting in neutral" and "idle"? Answer - Nothing. No Duh, you don't get the problem coasting in neutral. That's because you're "idling". You happen to be "idling while your car is moving", but your engine doesn't know it's moving... As far as it's concerned, it's at idle. I've got an idea... How about you vigorously investigate the suggestions that have been made so far and let us know what you find.

Anyone else going to the Sport Import show next weekend at Carlisle? I was thinking that this would be a good opportunity to sell/swap parts which would normally be a pain in the butt because of shipping. Now, I'm not going to throw an engine block in the back of my Z, and I'm not bringing anything that doesn't have a recipient at the other end, but I've got some other cumbersome parts that could make the trip if necessary. For example, I've got a: a) Full dash cap. Center consoles (2) for fuel injected cars without the choke lever slot. Neither is perfect, but both usable. c) Parts off an early ZX motor - N47 head, N42 block. I'm not going to put the block in my car, but if there's anything else you want, maybe I could pull it off and bring it? Crank? Pistons? A grind cam? Valve train? Valve cover? d) Rear window interior surround trims. I've got a pair of black early styles and a pair of cream late style. e) Snowflake wheels with virtually new rubber: As for parts I would like to have that would be a pain to ship: Windshield and rear window chrome trim strips. Late style heater box to experiment with. Anyone else?

A reading from the book of FSM: "The Boost Controlled Deceleration Device (B.C.D.D.) is employed to reduce HC emissions during coasting." EC-5 - 1977 As for the smoke... When you are coasting at high RPM, the cylinder vacuum is much higher than it is under other conditions because you are pulling high RPM against a closed throttle plate. Under these intermittently very high vacuum conditions, you'll pull more oil into the cylinders, but you won't see smoke because you're not burning it. You're pumping it out the exhaust without burning it. I'm just applying theory here trying to help. You asked for it.

77 still has a ballast resistor. I don't think 78 gets one, but 77 definitely does.

Thanks guys. I'll poke around a little more for other options, but if nothing interesting turns up, I'll just buy from MSA.

Leon, it's worse than that. The gap spec for 1977-78 is .039-.043 for the US cars but Canada retained the .028-.031 spec. For some reason, the US got a wider gap in 77 and 78 while Canada didn't?? I'm no spark engineer either, and I have no idea why...

I wonder why Nissan decided that it was a good idea to make the two ends of the tube different diameters in the first place. That's a neat idea you got going there with tapping the block. I've not tried finding a replacement at a Nissan dealer. Finding a stock replacement is easy... I was hoping for something better.

Thanks for the info. Years ago I bought the whole silicone PCV kit for my ZX. Included formed tubes where some of the tubes were formed with different diameter ends. Kinda surprised someone isn't making something similar for the first gens.

I'm sorry, but I've lost the pea. Can you put together a refresh of what's currently on the engine in terms of carbs and ignition? You're running round tops, right? What about ignition... What are you currently running? Points or something electronic?