Captain Obvious

And BTW, in 74 the water line coming out of the rear carb back to the water pump wasn't metal either. They had changed from the metal flare fitting line you have to rubber braided tubing with hose clamps.

So in 73, did they really use a metal tube off the rear carb for the EGR vacuum? I've only ever messed with 74... Going full bore OEM with a set of flat tops? Most people would tell you you're nuts.

Absolutely! It's not meant to be a press fit at all. The pin is supposed to slip easily in and out of that hole. That's why Datsun went through the expense of using the retainer bolt in the center of the pin. When the pin and holes are clean, the pin would (would?, could?, or should?) float and spin in the knuckle hole in the bottom of the strut housing if it weren't for the retainer bolt.

About pressing the protruding portion back in... If you're going to try that, make sure you clean out the newly exposed hole portion as well as the freshly exposed portion of the pin before you press the other way. File a couple thousandths off all the exposed pin and clean out the exposed hole portion with sandpaper and light oil or WD40. I'm sure you already figured this out, but there's not much to be gained by pressing that thing back together rusty. After you clean off the newly exposed parts, lube up both sides with penetrant and then maybe change direction. The theory being, the direction change can help work the penetrant into places it won't wick to when everything is static. Good luck!

Your troubles with this job parallel my experiences. :mad: The proponents of the spindle pin puller devices have never crossed paths with a pin like yours. More power to 'em, but my experience has led me to believe that if the spindle is stuck so minimally that a puller device would succeed, then it's in there so loose that I would never have needed a fancy puller in the first place. Regardless of how robust the puller is... Make sure you have a good solid square to the direction of the pressure backing for the knuckle. Make sure you are getting the force normal to the end of the pin. Wear safety glasses, gloves, and a face shield. So, while I can't add any additional specific insights as to what to do at this point, I can simply provide solidarity. I feel for ya.

I'll take a look, but I don't think I have any of the parts you need. Maybe I can maybe offer some info though? The large water pipe is copper with flare fittings on the ends. They might even be standard flare tubing fittings. If you get stuck and can't find real OEM stuff, then you might be able to make something with parts from the home improvement store. I'm no metallurgist, but I bet brass ends would probably work as well as steel in that application, and the malleable copper part should be easy to find. The small vacuum tube is port vacuum to control the EGR valve. I don't know if 73 used metal for that line or not, but I can tell you that in 74, that tube was rubber. Unless the EGR end of that tube gets too hot for rubber, then I can't see a reason it needs to be metal. HTH?

I bought the HF 20T A-frame press a bunch of years ago. I liked the design of the A one more than their standard H frame. I'm not sure they still offer the A-frame in 20T, but I know they still have the H. Anyway, I used it as designed for a few years and then after getting tired of a few of it's shortcomings, I made a bunch of improvements. So, if you do get a HF press, let me know and I'll see if I can document the details of what I did to mine to make it better than new.

YMMV, but that didn't work for me.

BTDT. Woof. Back when I went through that, I ended up drilling the old pin out of the strut assy. I've got a hydraulic press since then, and before I drilled it, I would see if I could press it out. If my press didn't have the nuts, I would take it to someone with a bigger press. Drilling it was no fun at all. :dead:

I didn't start the thread, but in this thread >> http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/47917-ignition-switch-sticking-start-position.html I did admit to cutting an ignition switch open, cleaning and bending the contacts a little, and then epoxying it back together as a temporary fix for a dying switch. I sure hope you can find a replacement for your single screw switch. I wouldn't consider what I did as a recommended course of action. Even though I'm still running that reworked switch almost a year later.

Ouch$$ I replaced my whole dash in my 77 a while ago with one that had fewer cracks. I sold the small gauges, but I've still got my original 77 speedo and tach if you're interested. How does $45 shipped sound? But wait, that's not all... Act before midnight tonight and if you let me know what you want the odometer to read, I'll even adjust it to your desired mileage before I box it up? Send me a PM?

Excellent! Glad it seems to have been that simple. Out of curiosity, thirty seconds works... How about twenty? Five?

That's interesting because 4, 5, and 6 are all driven from the same transistor inside the ECU. It would be very unlikely for all three of those injectors to spontaneously fail at the same time. If 4, 5, and 6 have all stopped working, it would be much more likely that there's an ECU problem. And if injectors do hard fail, it's almost always that they burned open. You can check for that by pulling the connector off the injector and measuring the resistance of the coil inside the injector.

The hot restart complaints of the fuel injected Z's is a common discussion and there are a lot of previous threads about it. Try a couple keywords like "hot start injector" in the search box and I bet you'll get some good info. It's not the AAR... The AAR might cause an idle speed change, but it won't affect mixture.

I used a hammer and the corner of a small chisel to carefully tap the domed screw heads in a counterclockwise direction. Once you get them to move at all, they turn pretty easy. I second the tip in the thread on zcar.com about tightening up the Phillips screws first. Takes some of the tension off the security screws. I wouldn't worry that much about it these days. The archaic anti-theft features from the 70's... I'm sure that anyone who wants to steal a car this old will already know how to defeat the system or can figure it out. Heck, I know I did, and I'm not that bright. :bulb:

Forgot... You can make your system a little simpler just to rule out a few more variables. You can temporarily remove the hose that goes between the balance tube and the throttle opener control valve and cap off the nipple at the balance tube. That will remove the possibility any air leaking through the throttle opener system. You can also do the same thing with all three hoses that go to the anti-backfire valve (the little one, and both large ones). Then once you have got to the root of the problem, you can put that stuff back on. Who knows... You may have a significant leak straight through the anti-backfire valve. :bulb:

Those are great engine bay pics. However, even with those great pics, nothing jumps out (to me at least) as a glaring issue. Yeah, the PCV isn't connected and it is a "vacuum leak", but it's a leak that is always supposed to be there and accounted for. The only difference with not having it connected up right is that you will pull in unfiltered air into the balance tube instead of pulling air out of the crankcase. I'm not sure which is dirtier. So let's recap a little. The problem you're chasing is that you press the gas and the engine dies, right? You're running two turns down on your nozzles... Why? What tuning did you do to determine that's where you should be? Have you tried more? Fewer? I've generally found that two turns isn't enough, especially in the winter. Also, did you ever borrow a timing light and check the ignition timing?

If it revs fine with the choke on, but dies without it, that's a pretty clear indication that it wants more fuel. But if you've got a wet plug and others that are carbon fouled, that's an indication that it's getting too much. Can you post a couple good pics of the engine bay. Maybe someone can spot an issue up in the pics?

Haha! Excellent! Glad you got to the bottom of that and that it was such an easy fix. PS - I bet that would have showed up in a good pic of the engine bay.

That servo diaphragm is part of what they called the "throttle opener system", and it's an emissions control device that works in conjunction with the "control valve". What those two devices do together are hold the throttle open a tiny bit in the event of a very high manifold vacuum. For example, when coasting down a long hill with your foot completely off the gas. It doesn't matter if you were at full throttle to none. All that matters is that the manifold vacuum is higher then the threshold to open the control valve. When you are at idle with the hood open, that servo should not move. On pre-74 cars, you might be able to get the throttle opener to move a little if you goose the throttle as you described. The manual describes such a procedure, but I've not tried it myself, so I don't know how pronounced of a movement you would get. The jury is still out on whether the control valve and servo diaphragm are supposed to hold vacuum or not. And the A.B. valve might not really be a problem either depending on where it's leaking to. I'm thinking that you should have more than 15 in vacuum at idle though. This is at 800 RPM? I'm thinking that two turns down on your nozzles may not be enough. Without more info, I would suspect you are running lean. What do the plugs look like?

If you aren't planning to use the A/C, then another option is to switch to the non-A/C control head. It doesn't use vacuum at all. Everything is controlled by cables.

Somehow, I just figured you were going to say that... air-fuel ratio would be a bigger deal. It would require the installation of an O2 sensor, and it would require an additional A/D in the design. Not only that, but it changes a lot faster than the rest of the inputs, so it would have to be scanned more often which takes more processing time. And you also have to provide the data to the scanner with a real time data stream. The other sensors, with the possible exception of the AFM, change a lot slower which means stale data is still good data. Not saying you can't do it, but it's definitely on a different level of difficulty than the rest of the parameters. Haha! That's funny. You know what? We're old.

I don't think it would be a completely different can of worms. If the design includes a microcontroller and it had enough processing horsepower remaining after taking care of all of the required necessary tasks, then yes... OBD interface could be included. I'm not sure how much value you would get out of it though. Sure, you would be able to purchase a small cheap code reader to connect to it, but the vast majority of the typical parameters wouldn't apply. You could probably make it so you could read AFM position, WTS temp, ATS temp, TPS position, and injector pulse width out. Are you thinking more value than that?

Haha. It's just that troubleshooting is a whole lot easier if everyone involved is using the same language. I suggest standardizing on the terminology found in the factory service manual. I'm not suggesting that everyone pour over every last minute detail of the manual... Just download it, open it, and look at the pretty pictures in the EC (Emissions Control) and EF (Engine Fuel) section. That way when someone says "I can't tell from that pic what the red outlined thing is connected to." The OP can answer "It's connected to something called the 'servo diaphragm'. I don't know what it does, but I found a pic on EC-11." Then we can handle the rest... :bulb:

How many turns down are your nozzles? Have you downloaded a copy of the factory service manual yet? You can find them here: XenonS30 No. Tell you what... If you can provide the name that the service manual calls the round thing with the black tube attached to it that's above your red outlined rod, then I'll tell you all about what it does.