Captain Obvious

I jacked mine up and then set it back down on four small moving dollies (from HF). Lifts the car up high enough to be able to get under it and also allows the suspension to squirm around to neutral position which is important when tightening the suspension bolts. Put a plank or two of 2 x 10 across these: Don't let your car roll out into the street on the dollies.

Yes, those hoses are full of coolant and will gush some when you take them off. With that in mind, I would drain the coolant first to minimize the mess. There will still be some coolant coming out of the tubes even after draining the system, but probably less than if you didn't drain the system first. Oh... And when you're all done with the coolant leak repair, I would disconnect the electrical connectors that go to the center console and clean them out. It's common for those connectors to be green crusty corroded due to heater system leaks over the years getting inside the contacts and sitting wet and festering.

Well before you go bending stuff, I think it would be important to know if someone had been in there before messing around. Can you / could you tell if someone had been into the AFM before you?

That orange module is the temperature control switch for your A/C compressor. The temp silder lever on the HVAC control panel does one of two things: When you are in non-A/C mode, the temp lever controls the amount of water flowing through the water cokk. But when you are in A/C mode, the system automatically cuts off all water to the heater core using the vacuum controlled valve that lives near the water cokk. So when you're in A/C mode, no water flows through the core regardless of where the lever is. And then in that A/C mode, they instead use the slider lever to control the setpoint for that orange device. That orange cube is a temperature controlled switch with a sensor stuck in the evaporator coil. If the evaporator warms up enough, they turn the compressor on. And if the evaporator cools off enough, they cut off power to the compressor. Basically, they cycle the compressor and the duty cycle is dependent on the position of the temperature slider lever. TMI?

You probably already know this, but the car in your pic above is a 77, not a 75. I don't know if the over rider bars are the same between those years. But if I had to guess..... I kinda doubt it?

Was there a little fondling maybe?

Some ideas: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/44553-help-me-understand-the-aar-please/ https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50310-a-better-auxilary-air-regulator/

Electrically that two gang switch you bought will be great. It will all come down to how well you can get it to fit. If necessary, you could cut the four retaining tabs off the back of that stitch assy if it helps it fit in the hole better. You would have to figure out a different way to keep it in place, but making it look good from the top side is the most important. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain.

Cool. If you're already just controlling a relay, then a 260/280 stock defog switch will work fine. As for where to put it.... I've been messing with the same thing in recent weeks and I've tried several different configurations. I recently made an adapter plate to put one of those switches in that rightmost larger hole. But the simplest thing would be to put it horizontal in one of the two positions right below the radio. If you've got a 260, then your right side is the "CHOKE" light, and the left side is your "REAR REFOGGER" location. Maybe you could live without a defogger iindicator lamp there and use that location for your fog light switch? You still need CHOKE, but maybe you could do without the DEFOG indicator. And when I get a chance I'll take some pics of some of the other stuff I've been messing with. One of my "and after a completely unprofitable amount of hours later, I have this" kind of things.

The defogger switch is just a normal SPST switch, so that part of it is no problem. No resistors or anything else unusual. Just a switch. The only thing that would concern me is how much current can that defog switch deal with? I don't think I would want fog light current going directly through that switch. I'd want to use a relay between the switch and the lights.

Pics or it didn't happen.

I cry foul for using the GPS system to show upcoming features on the track.

I have old faded brain cells with a mental picture of a ground down tip on a grease gun in order to be able to fit into the small opening on the half shafts. In other words... Many moons ago I think I modified a grease gun to be able to get in there. I don't think I have that gun anymore though to confirm.

Kats, Just wanted to say that I love the pictures. I know you are on the other side of the globe, but your Spring season looks just like mine.

Of course it is. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azxx9sG4Gjw

I consider that good news actually. It would have been unusual for the starter to be the culprit, and now you're at least back to the "usual cast of characters".

Assuming you have the capacity in the oil pump, I don't see any reason why you couldn't toss an internally oiled cam into a head that previously had a spray bar system and use both oiling systems in parallel. You should get oil out of all the holes... Both out of the bar and out of the holes in the cam lobes.

There's nothing like taking it apart and then trying to put it back together again to learn about something. Works for me!!

Actually the non-A/C cars don't have that bracket at all. That bracket only exists on the A/C cars because they have additional parts that bolt to that bracket that the non-A/Cs do not have. Not that it matters, but...

The first one is part of the HVAC system under the dash. It's the bracket that the heat control valve stuff bolts to. If you can deal with the blurriness in this hoovered pic, it looks like this:

Well that sure looks like milli-Volts to me. I just took the same measurement on my car and 0.0 Volts, but even if your reading is real (and not simply noise being picked up by the meter somehow), that voltage would still result in a current draw in about 3 milli-Amps worth of battery drain. And while that low of a drain would eventually deplete a battery, but would (should) take months.

Way cool! I just watched this episode last night! So the basic takeaway from the episode (as they described it) was that if you engine isn't having detonation issues, then the octane rating of the fuel doesn't matter at all. The longer story was.... They ran the same engine on a dyno a whole bunch of times running different fuel varieties. They did pulls using 87 pump gas, 91 pump gas, two higher octane race gas varieties (110 and 116 I think?), and then at the end they ran E85. They were expecting to have to adjust the timing for the different fuels, but they found that they did not. The engine wanted 29 degrees of advance for every fuel, and made the exact same power (within experimental tolerances) regardless of which fuel they used. The only exception was that the E85 actually made more power than any of the straight up gasoline varieties. Now... Are any of their findings directly applicable back to our engines? I can come up with a bunch of questions that would need to be answered before I would believe they are, but I'm just in this for the academic entertainment. * One correction to Marks note above... There was no boost. This was all N/A,

Are you sure you measured 0.8 milliVolts, or was it 0.8 Volts? Just double checking...

Well honestly, I'd consider swapping back to the original cam just to make sure you have the rest of the bugs worked out. I didn't know you had the original cam as an option. If you can get it to run right (under all conditions) with the original cam, then maybe toss the aftermarket one in and see what happens. In other words... Baseline it running well with the OEM and then put in the high lift? At least that way you'll be able to separate cam issues from other issues. Cam swaps aren't that bad of a job. Just don't drop the timing chain and it's no big deal.

I'm not sure how they were able to get rid of the ballast resistor in 78. There are several possibilities, but I haven't really looked into it. If I get the chance, I'll poke around a little with that 78 module I have and see if I can figure out how they were able to function without the ballast and not burn anything up.