Captain Obvious

I'm sorry to see the carnage, and I hope you get it fixed up. And I don't have anything technical to add, but just gotta say... Wow. I'm impressed. That's not the kind of thing you see everyday!

Excellent. Clean and tight connections are your friend. And yes... It sounds like your issues are first order related to the cam now. Hope you can get that tuned in! Do you have an air/fuel ratio meter, or are you doing this all old school?

LOL! So I'm a newcomer in the grand scheme of things (at only ten years). I wonder how long I lurked here before I joined. I was a member over at that other forum site first, but rarely ever post there anymore. I'm with site as to why.

Oh, and I do have to say that as much as I like talking about dissecting and analyzing electronic goodies, I don't think this (ignition module chatter) has anything to do with ckurtz2 issues.

I think you have the chronology right. 74 through 76 used a smaller plug gap (presumably matched to the spark energy) and then in 77 they redesigned the module and increased the gap width (again, presumably matched to the spark energy). Then in 78, they changed things again, but the plug gap stayed the same. (.039 - .043). They did, however, do away with the ballast resistor, so there could potentially be a hotter spark if you used a 78 module. I have dug into both, but don't remember the details of what I found inside the 78. I have pics, but don't remember the circuit details without checking my notes. 78 guts:

The 77 and 78 modules are significantly different mechanical form factor. The 77 looks like this: And the 78 looks like this. Slightly smaller and has a very different connection scheme:

Yes, I have a 77, and yes, that's a 77 ignition module. It is my understanding that the 78's don't need a ballast resistor because the ignition module does a better job current limiting and/or dwell control.

Good luck with the remainder of the connector cleanup. Note that issues with the coolant temp sensor would affect all cylinders, not just one (so that's not what was causing your misfire on #1 only). But in any event, it's a very important input to the EFI system and it must be clean and reliable. And don't forget to clean up the other sides of all those new connectors you've already installed. The male "outie" pins on the fuel injectors, for example. Some people in the past have had issues at the large connector right at the ECU, but I've never seen an issue there. In my experience, that connection point is clean and shiny because it's lived its life inside the interior of the car instead of out in the engine compartment. Worth a peek though, just in case your car sat for a long time in a high humidity area, or had a water leak from a window or cowl drain or something.

So it really sounds like you've got weak / dirty connections in the EFI system, and that's not unusual at all. Very common situation for these cars. If you're going to take your car in for some tuning work, you need to be absolutely double dog sure that all your EFI connections are clean, solid, and reliable. Top priorities for me? If all of your connectors are still original (except for injector #1 which you have already replaced), I would go ahead and replace the other five injector connectors and polish up the pins on the injectors. I would also replace the temperature sensor connector with new, and polish the temp sensor pins. I would pull and polish up the dropping resistor connections. Lastly, I would inspect the AFM connector and polish up everything there too. Hope it's that simple!

Good point guys. Just because it shows "continuity" doesn't mean it's a good hard low Ohmic connection.

He did. (Along with a bunch of other fantastic trouble shooting efforts!) That's why I'm thinking the break is somewhere further up inside the harness. If I were there, I would stick the meter in the connector and start retching the harness around and looking to see if I could see the issue. I'm thinking that it might be a green corroded crimp connector somewhere inside the harness?

Oh, and the brightness of the noid light getting brighter at higher RPM's is perfect. It's because the duty cycle of the injector pulse got wider. More wider. More gas at more RPM.

I was thinking it was an intermittent break inside the wiring harness (somewhere further up into the harness than right at the connector). But I didn't suggest that because I could not reconcile that with the following: I could explain how connecting the #1 connector onto the #2 injector might cause that injector to work*, but the part I really couldn't deal with was when you put the #2 connector onto injector #1 and it did NOT make that injector start working. That's the part that caused me not to pursue that avenue more thoroughly. *small break inside the harness causing an Intermittent connection.

I liked it when Dulcich said that he turned away because he just couldn't watch. And when Freiburger was talking about tipping them into a dumpster. Getting them to teeter juuuuussst right on the lip before giving the final push.

I'm watching it on the Motortrend channel on cable TV. Probably depends on if your cable provider carries that channel and what's included in your subscription. I also assume that you can "stream it on demand" as well. Whatever that means.

I went back and watched the slant-six thing again where Dulcich was talking about the head gasket. "I actually agonized over the head gasket. There's only four fasteners per cylinder and they are puny 7/16 bolts, so not very good clamping. I was gonna use a little secret sauce on it. And do a little this and that on it. And then, you know, it was late at night. And it says 'USE NO SEALER' right on the gasket. So I'm just gonna slap it on there." What I want to know is... What is his secret sauce, and can I have some more details about what is involved with "this and that".

I find Steve Brule simply amazing. I mean the other two guys are no slouches either, but Brule is phenomenal. So about that slant six episode... They popped the head gasket due to the high cylinder pressures* and Dulcich said it was his fault because he put it in dry with no sealer on it. Have you heard him talk about what sealer he WOULD use (if he were using one?) Did he mention that in another episode that you've seen? *running ten pounds of supercharger boost on a 1967 slant six! LOL!!!

Yeah, I really like the theory stuff. Pretty much none of it applies to "normally" driven cars, but it's great anyway. The cam timing one I think might be the most applicable to the way most of us drive our cars. I watched the slant-six power last night and really enjoyed it. I was alone watching TV and honestly laughed out loud at least three times!

https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/57215-diy-gland-nut-socket-with-pics/ Bow Chicka WOW WOW!

Well if you're having the same behavior with a new replacement injector, I don't think it's the injector (directly). And if you've replaced the connector and can swap them around like that and not ever get an RPM drop when you disconnect #1, then I'm running out of ideas. I like ZH's thoughts about a vacuum leak at that cylinder. Maybe right at the injector seal. Although I find it hard to believe the leak would be so bad it would prevent the cylinder from firing. Worth looking into though. Agreed that this is an application where a couple color tunes would really come in handy.

The fuel injected heads have holes drilled and tapped for both carb intake manifolds and FI intake manifolds. What you're seeing there is the peeking out of one of the FI intake manifold mounting holes. Here's a (hoovered) shot of the side of a FI head where you can see all of the holes: So to answer the question about what pitch to use... I believe it is M10 x 1.25. If you can't get that to thread in, maybe the threads are mess up inside the head.

I recently started watching a TV show called "Engine Masters" and I really enjoy it. Granted... Most of their work and findings are primarily applicable to WOT drag racing kinda stuff, but I really like when they get into theory and concepts. I also like the friendly banter back and forth between the three guys on the show. Could easily be me and two buddies. I've got the DVR set up to pick it up. If you've got time to relax and want something "light", I recommend it.

Respectfully submitted... Distributor cap doesn't really make sense here. He said he's getting good spark at number one. I think it's got to be a fuel problem somehow. Really sounds like an issue with the injector or connector. Puzzling there too though since the diagnostics have been pretty thorough. ckurtz2, You said you replaced the #1 injector and connector. Was the replacement injector new or used? And when you said you replaced the connector, how did you do that? Snip the old one off and connect in one of the aftermarket replacements?

Hit it.

It's got a cop motor. A 440 cubic inch plant. It's got cop tires. Cop suspension. Cop shocks.