Captain Obvious

Thinking about it more, I'm betting that you won't be able to test much of the turbo capability without a load on the engine. Bottom whatever... Just don't blow your motor up!

Glad to hear the cheap kit worked. And I don't think I would trust thread lock either due to the heat. So do you have the turbo control system? Based on the different distributor, I assume they mess with the ignition timing too? You may be able to account for fuel using the NA system, but unless you're gonna move the distributor with one hand and diddle the pot with the other....

I'd be a little careful with this. The original actuator tip was hardened, heat treated. I'm not exactly what you meant about making a new bolt, but if you started with an off the shelf bolt made out of mystery metal, I'd be a concerned.

Yes, those two wires are for the warning chime. You can find the switch on the wiring diagram labeled as "Steering Lock Switch". On the wiring diagram, you will find it between the dimmer rheostat and the turn signal switch. The colors of the wires right at the switch are shown as red/w and black. I suspect that's what those pair of red/blue wires connect to at the harness end. And as for being able to move the switch over to the new lock assembly, it would depend on how accurately the new aftermarket copied the original assembly. I suspect that the switch might port over OK, but I'm not so sure about the semi-circular black plastic actuator arm. Here's some pics that might help:

That type of cast iron is usually easy to drill and thread. Abrasive to tools, but if you're only doing one of them, not a big deal. So you have a lathe now, right? Make your own insert. Have you tried threading on the lathe yet?

Well that's certainly not the smoking gun we were looking for. Wish I could provide more help on figuring out exactly what's going on.

Woot!! Those multiple failure point situations can get really tough! Glad you finally got it!!

Hmmm... That's about two thousandths. With the mass of the crankshaft and the ooze of the assembly lube, I don't think you would be able to detect that by hand and eye. You're going to have to use an indicator and a pry bar. If the crank spins free and smooth, you're probably fine.

Man, I hate unexplained things... I sure hope you figure out what's going on with those readings. Do you know what it is that the Swedish enlarger pump is looking for? What chemical(s) is it supposed to detect?

Glad to help. Hope it's as simple as a bad flasher. That would be easy!

This sounds like another fantastic opportunity for you to film yourself doing something entertaining. Pics or it didn't happen!!

Haha!! I'm thinking maybe you should be the one that's worried!!

Wait... Are you saying the noise went away and it's all good now?

I wouldn't worry about the grease holes. They'll be sealed up by the gasket on the mounting face. And if you don't tell anyone about them, nobody will ever know. And about that hole for the ported vacuum... If one were to assume that the previous owner drilled the original vacuum nipple out of the carb body, and did it "concentric to the original center of the hole", then one could make an insert with the appropriate diameter small hole through it*. Press or loctite it in place and very carefully file the inside flush with the curved surface of the carb throat. I could do it. At least if the center line of the enlarged hole is in the same location as the center line of the original port hole. If they ham handed the removal of the original tube and drilled off center or something, then the location of the new port will be mis-located accordingly. * Or get extremely lucky and find some piece of tubing off the shelf that already has the correct ID and OD. Extremely lucky....

To provide additional detail to the above... It sounds like your flasher unit is not making a good solid connection across it. It's a low enough resistance to provide 12V at the turn signal switch when the switch is in the center position (driving nothing). But as soon as you move the turn signal lever up or down, the low resistance of the signal bulbs drags the voltage on the white wire out of the flasher down to zero. I'm thinking your flasher is fubar. Or the connections on the base are corroded. Something like that. I assume you already checked the connector condition right there at the turn signal switch? Everything all nice and clean and shiny?

The simplest, most straight forward answer is "your turn signal flasher unit is bad". Have you tried another one?

Water does expand with the heat. Just not as much (volumetricly) as gasses do. So even if there isn't any air in the system, the water will expand as the system heats up. And that expansion will start as soon as the engine is started. Now granted... If there is air trapped somewhere, or if you do manage to boil some of that water, it will expand orders of magnitude more than water. But even just the water will expand (even if it doesn't change state).

Glad to help. So for the vacuum advance thing... The ported vacuum will have a sharp narrow peak just above idle. At idle, there will be very little advance, and above light cruise, there will also be very little advance. In contrast, the direct manifold vacuum will be highest at idle and gradually drop from there to zero advance at WOT. The profile is very different than the ported source. That said, there are plenty of people who think that direct manifold vacuum is actually better, and plenty of other people who think that all the vacuum advance can be removed completely and just set the base timing higher instead. Here's a discussion we had a long time ago about such things. Quickly went over my head: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/41935-ignition-timing-theory-port-source-vs-manifold-source/#comment-377416

Oh, and here's a pic of what the carb mounting surface is supposed to look like. Without the grease lube holes:

Here's a couple pics of the 72 carbs (which is what you have in your car) and the vacuum nipple: And here's the port on the inside. Note that I'm holding the butterfly open a little bit so you can see the hole. With the butterfly all the way closed, the hole is completely covered. Also note how small the hole should be:

Well that sounds like significant progress. I skipped through the video really fast though. I'm not much on videos, especially long ones. Maybe it's just me, but I'd just rather read a couple sentences about it instead of having to watch a 15 minute video about it. A text synopsis about the video would be better for me. "We removed the nail. Put the carbs back on the car and the idle was down where it was supposed to be. Now that the carbs were behaving like they should be, we did a quick tune and set the idle speed and sync of the carbs using a uni-sync tool. After that, it was running well enough that we actually took it out on the road for a quick road test. Did great, all things considering." That would be better for me. So about that ported vacuum source for your distributor advance... I'm not sure what you have is salvageable, at least not without extraordinary means. The problem is that the hole into your carb throat is way bigger than it should be. Looks like when they snapped off the vacuum nipple, they drilled out the remains and went too deep. Like all the way into the carb throat deep. In other words... Some previous owner drilled through your carb body and ruined it. The vacuum hole is supposed to be small. Thirty thousandths maybe? And the one in your carb looks like it's an eighth inch or larger. The bottom line is that both the size of that hole and the location are critical and yours has been wallowed out to three or four times it's normal size. So if you want to run ported vacuum, you'll need a new front carb. Not a lot of fun.

Oh, and DadAndLadZ, forgot to mention.... Now that you have that nail pulled out and all the idle screws backed completely out, both carbs should be shutting tight-tight. And if that's the case, it probably won't even idle. You might find that you have to manually hold the throttle open a little bit or screw the idle screws back in some just to get it to run at all. Or you could pull the choke lever. As you saw, it should open the throttle plates a small amount. Pretty sure you would have figured that out, but just throwing that out there.

Yeah, I think I would recommend running a return line, but that (like a lot of other details) can wait. I just want it to idle correctly for now! Haha! I'm no regulator expert, but I'm not a big fan of dead-headed systems in carb applications. This non-expert would prefer a bypass regulator system with a return line.

I have very little doubt that things will be a whole lot better now, but after four pages, I just want to hear it from you to be sure!

If the blue wire is disconnected, the rest of the ignition module is just along for the ride. It'll still be reading the input signal and switching it's output stage, but that output stage will not be connected to anything, so it will have no effect.