Captain Obvious

The stop screw catches the front piston like this: And the rear piston position is established by the retainer clip in the back: So the distances between those two reference locations and the "forward-most" seals on each piston is what's important. It looks like the front piston is really close, but the rear one is not. Might be "close enough", might not.

That's really a risky maneuver. Overall length isn't as important as where the seals end up located when the cylinder is at rest. It would take a lot of study and investigation to know if it would work. Off the top of my head, looking at the rearmost piston (the one that the master cylinder pushes against), it has the seal in a different location than the original. The front piston is harder to analyze since it depends on where the seal will end up when the stop screw hits the lip of the piston. I'm just a guy with a keyboard, but I don't like it.

Good luck, and just let us know if there are still unanswered questions.

Perfect. I just couldn't see the bottom washers in the other pics. Looks great.

Yeah, I went socket head because I was thinking that getting in there with a hex driver would be easier than a phillips screw driver. And now that I've done it, I think I made the right call. T-handle allen driver for the win. Oh, and they're stainless. Seemed like the right material for the application.

I don't know if it's the ONLY reason for it's existence (seems unlikely), but that is where they printed the identifying markings:

Here's mine. A little embarrassing to post after your clean and shiny stuff, but it's what I got. They'll work fine, but aren't as pretty. You can see the washers under the springs:

Much better. One follow up question though... Are there metal washers between the hold down springs and the shoes? I can't tell for sure from the pics, but I just want to make sure the springs are not riding directly on the shoes.

Sigh. Of course you did. Right after I did this: Yes... Before you ask. Yes, I made the little plastic washers.

Sent you a PM.

Gotcha. Well that explains the "newness" of the connector, but I still don't know what the intent of that wire was. Still the only real idea I have is that it was intended to be a ground connection to the antenna. I'm thinking maybe they thought they might need to make that connection to the antenna, but then decided they didn't need it? I haven't yet dug into that corner of the car I have here, but I should be doing that soon. It's a mid-70 car, and I doubt I have that wire, but I will check when I get there.

And I have no idea at this point what that black wire is on your harness. Interesting that the spade connector on it appears new? At least newer than the bullet connectors just upstream. And not only does it appear newer than the rest, but it is the spade style intended to be used in a plastic connector shell. You can see the retainer tab on the face of the brass contact. Usually if the spade was not used in a connector housing, they used a style that did not have that retainer tab. Seems really unusual, or unlikely, but what are the chances that a previous owner made a modification to the harness to add that wire? I got nuthin'. I also find it interesting that your front calipers don't have a date stamp. We talked about caliper date codes a little while ago, and I wanted to see if yours lined up with the theories we discussed in that thread. But yours don't seem to have the same markings. Here's the caliper date code thread: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/68569-caliper-date-codes/

Haha!! Thanks for the pic. And I'm glad you put one up. because..... Respectfully submitted, your springs are on wrong. I made up a cheat sheet last time I was into mine:

But in all seriousness, it's a beautiful car. It's a very well done resto-mod, not a period correct restoration.

Well, I'm glad to be of service. Hahaha!! Yeah, I'm, thinking he should have plugged that something like 1500 miles ago. 😞

That open hole to suck dirty air into the carbs is worrisome. They said there has been 1500 miles put on the engine since it was rebuilt? I sure hope they didn't suck 1500 miles worth of road dust and dirt into that newly rebuilt motor!!

Thanks for the confirmation.

Which choke knob should this car have? Is this the correct one for that date: And while we're talking about knobs... Is the flasher switch knob correct for that car on BAT?

Beautiful car. I'm no expert on the early cars, but at quick glance, here's a couple things that caught my attention: Sucking dirty air into the clean side of the air filter (because the did not cap off the nipple from the deleted the anti-backfire valve system). Unconnected flow guide valve. Aftermarket progressive springs. Plastic fan. Boot on headlight connector out of place and doing nothing. Later design alternator. (Was mentioned on BAT) At least one screw missing on the heater blower motor. Not as grievous as the brake master, but an incorrect clutch master for the date of the car. Also, it looks like the car had been Zibarted. You can see the plugs on some of the pics. Notably missing from the rear side of the RS door jamb near the latch plate. That's the area where they said they put in a new quarter panel. Easy to spot if you compare the right an left side pics. And shouldn't this car have the "D" hubcaps with the valve stem holes in the center of the spokes instead of being in the center of the windows?

I suspect that in order to be period correct, it should leak. 😄

And you are planning to put springs on them thangs, aren't you? Haha!!

And about that wire in the rear... The antenna has a ground connection on the wiring diagrams. I haven't been into that corner of an early car yet, but I thought (without actually seeing it), that antenna's ground connection came from being bolted to the body. Now that I see your harness, I suspect that ground connection to the antenna is NOT simply from connection to the body, but is in fact, a dedicated ground wire leading to the antenna. Do you have an antenna for the car? Is there a ground lead bullet connection attached to it? I've found several other similar issues with the factory wiring diagrams. In many locations, they didn't do a good job of conveying how grounds were connected. And lastly... Yes, the early rotors had holes in them. Aftermarket replacements did away with that, but they are an early car thing.

Yes, the early cars had a fusible between the alternator and the harness. (It's on the wiring diagram I've posted up on the site 😄) : Your spade connector looks a little black and crispy. It's a high amperage connection, so it's super important that it is a good connection. Clean and tight! I also found corrosion underneath the washer on the ground "E" connection that resulted in about a half volt drop when I turned the headlights on. Doing the calculation, it came out to about 50 milliOhms of resistance, but 50 mOhms drops a half a volt at ten amps!! So... Clean and tight!! I can walk you through how I found that questionable connection if you want, but I doubt I would need to do that. Here's my washer with hidden corrosion underneath: I didn't want to put a steel washer back in there, so I made a new washer out of brass: \

Got it. So metal to metal it is. Thanks!

The adjustable gas pedal stop screwed into a boss on the floor.... Should there be a rubber cover over it, or is intended to be metal-to-metal? @Parman , Your original one looks like this. Located down in the lower right of your pic: Should there be a rubber pad on the metal disk, or is supposed to be bare?