Captain Obvious

You're not talking about cutting internal O-ring grooves into the (bushing that's pressed into the) carb body, are you? If so, call me and I'll do my best to talk you out of that. If that's not what you meant... I've seen a couple simple seal versions. First is on the round tops... The outboard ends can be capped off completely. Only the inboard ends need some sort of rotational seal. And someone many moons ago did a simple "crushed O-ring" compressed up against the outside of the carb body. (@Blue @240260280 maybe)

I've done several throttle shafts with O-rings. @Jarvo2, Have you got any good pics of what ZT does? I've never seen one of their seals.

You're in good hands with the technical aspects of this, but I just wanted to pop in and say that I love the pic of the exploded coil. I mean, I'm not happy that your coil exploded, but you sure weren't exaggerating! That's an exploded coil! Not the kind of thing you see everyday!

Great work! Has anyone else in the family seen it run yet? Or would the noise be off-putting?

Hahaha!!! I'm just happy that someone got the reference at all! Don't beat yourself up!!!

There's a newer cleaner version of that. I've tried to make it work for me, but it just won't stick. I always revert to that old school version. And yes... I'm not color blind, but I bet when everything is brown, brown, lighter brown, tan, darker brown it makes it hard to figure out what goes where!

So you can test it by having it shock you to see if it's working. And if it's blowed up, it's probably NOT working. Mental notes. Got it.

I heard it run!!! Woo Hoo!! Congrats!! You're doing great! Beer!

Saw a mention about having a clogged bleed nipple on a different thread: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/65237-barefootdans-280z-build/?page=7&tab=comments#comment-631700 That would give you all the symptoms you're seeing, but it would be hard to believe that a) the nipple on your freshly rebuilt caliper is clogged, and b) the nipple on your old original caliper has the exact same issue. Not saying it's impossible, but certainly unlikely? In any event, it may be worth the five minutes it would take to find out.

I don't need a woman. I won't take me no wife. I got the rock and roll and that'll be my life. No page in history, baby. That I don't need. I just wanna make some eardrums bleed! Sorry... I'm back now.

Fingers crossed for you!!

Of course us on-line are limited to the descriptions of the behavior, and because of this things can get murky. At this point, you're saying you've bled all four corners and they all look great except for the right front. And at that right front, you've got a very weak stream of fluid and a pedal that still goes to the floor. Other than that, everything seems to be OK. Is that correct? One thing to keep in mind is that it really doesn't take a lot of pressure in the lines to lock up a corner (any corner) to the point where you can't turn it by hand. In other words... Just because you can't spin a rotor or a drum by hand doesn't really mean you've got normal pressure in that corner of the system. Even a small amount of hydraulic pressure in the lines is enough to prevent the corner from being able to be turned by hand. Hope your brain clearing walk-away provides some ideas and you come back shortly with the answer.

I looked over the pic as best I could and didn't find anything worth mentioning. Looks great! So you're thinking tomorrow might be the first start try?? What did you decide to do with the EFI temperature sensor? You running the one out the side of the head?

When you ran that test, where did you break into the line out at the wheel? Did the section of lines you were able to blow through include the small "S" bent hardline on the back of the caliper? Or did you split it where the flexible line meets the "S" bend metal line? Kinda running out of ideas here...

Cool. Hope it's as simple as a collapsed hose. And if it is... I'd replace all four of them, not just the one corner.

Yeah, I'd really take a real good look at that flexible hose. I don't remember if I've ever seen it specifically on a Z, but I've seen several cars where those flexible lines had closed down inside and restricted flow.

And by the way... what's the big picture history here? Is this something that just cropped up on a roadworthy car, or have you reached the "brake portion" of a long resurrection project?

Right. If you're getting reasonable flow on one side an low flow on the other, then you shouldn't be looking for an air leak. You should be looking for a restriction somewhere between the caliper and the source. I would look carefully at the flexible line from the chassis to the caliper. And I think your small leak at your pressure switch is something you need to address, but I don't think it's the cause of the big problem you're chasing.

Dropping back a bunch just to be sure... Did you bench bleed the replacement master cylinder(s) when you put it on? Also, you said you went to the old helper method of bleeding with no improvement. When you were underneath bleeding it old school, did you get a good stream of fluid out of the calipers when you cracked open the bleed nipple? Did that stream appear to be the same on both sides in the front?

I get a similar "poof" sound when I hit the brakes and they go to the floor. Although it's from me, and not the car... Sorry, I know it's "too soon", but just couldn't help myself.

I don't know anything about the draw-down hatch mechanisms, but I know a guy who's been working on putting in a linear actuators on his (shaved locks) 260Z. I think he's on his second, no third. Fourth maybe? revision of the project. It's not as easy as you might think. @GGRIII The doors were pretty easy. The hatch has been a PITA.

Understood. I was just thinking maybe you had some measured flow numbers from the two you could compare. I was thinking that could be a data point for someone looking to verify if their injectors are the right ones or not. No biggie. Again, glad you were able to help the OP get back on track!

No, it's fine. They sealed off the other end (the end you can't get a good look at) with a brazed on cap. Not sure why they felt like it needed to be that complex, but that's what they did.

Great question! Thanks Steve!

Except water. Haha!!