Captain Obvious

@Mike

Maybe they were designed like that. Variable rate progressives. The lower coils bind on big bumps. You know... Like when you let it down off the jack.

Hahaha!!!

Welcome back Zedy. You're our only hope.

If the booster is in good shape, it should hold vacuum. You'll need to put a check valve (or manual shut-off valve) on the vacuum source side so you don't lose vacuum back-flowing through the vacuum pump when you turn it off, but other than that, the can should be sealed.

Oh, and your steering wheel coin... That's about the size of a quarter, right? That's going to take a long time to mill out all that detailed recessed area. And I'm sure the reason you're going to powder coat it is to hide the tooling marks, right?

Cool. I've not looked for makerspaces in my area, but that is something I should investigate. Been meaning to, but keep forgetting. I did pick up an el-cheapo CNC router not long ago and have made a few parts similar in concept to what you're trying to do. "They say" it's capable of doing some light duty milling in aluminum, but I don't think it's rigid enough. Everything I've cut so far has been plastic. So far, I've followed my typical pattern... Spend about half the time improving the machine and fixing the flaws with it, and the other half the time actually using the machine to make parts.

Haha!! Exactly who I was thinking of when I wrote that! Thanks for picking that up! Ack!!

Hahaha!!! It's true!! In fact, I just got a new one! And... I hated it so bad* that after a short usage time (one month maybe), I just got ANOTHER new flip phone of a different brand. The new-new one is more advanced than my previous flips. I handed it to my son yesterday and in a matter of minutes he was laughing at funny videos on youtube. So it's got that. I might never use it for that, but it's clearly capable. So ppppbbbbhttttt for all you guys who think I'm stuck in the 1990's. Hahaha!! * IMHO, it should have never left the factory. If I wrote the software on that POS, I would have been fired on the spot.

Stealing a stock Z? For me... Gone in 60 seconds and I wouldn't care at all whether the security screws were broken off or not. You need something more elaborate than that. Great list. Let me add... Break a window, reach in and open the hood, disconnect the steering coupler donut, jumper the starter solenoid, and then use the starter to crank the car to your place while steering by kicking the front tires in the direction you want to go. Bring extra batteries just in case the PO was having alternator troubles. Or a charger and a really long extension cord.

Yeah, I'm not sure I did a good job of putting my thoughts into words. Av8ferg did a much better job than I did. So let me try again... So you think this forum exists for the purpose so you can ask us every question and you don't have to do any research yourself? is that why we're here?

Yes, they're all polyurethane. The question is "what are the characteristics of the polyurethane?" Just because they're poly, doesn't mean they're "the same". It's like saying "they're made of plastic". But I'm sure you already knew all that.

Nice work. You've got access to one of those? That would be really sweet!

I suggest your premise is not correct. I believe there would still be a need for this forum even if you googled every question. TATFAW. Better yet... Let's try that to find out.

Haha!! Life's funny that way, huh? So durometer would probably be relatively easy. Especially if you're really only interested in the relative difference between the two. But other than that... Maybe you could go back to the office for a visit, and while you're there... Take a spin around the test lab one last time?

LOL. I think everyone agrees with you. Steve should never admit it in public, but it's just all way too well done to be "coincidence". No. Absolutely not. That's just about perfect. Maybe the only thing that could have possibly been a tiny bit better would be if you decided that the tire inflator was risky because it generated too much pressure, so the wife had to resort to something a little more gentle. Like blowing into a tube or something.

I suspect the specifications you seek would only be available through two sources... 1) The manufacturer(s). And I agree that it would be unlikely they would be willing to share that level of detail. and... 2) Someone who has purchased both and had them analyzed to determine the detailed specs. Maybe you'll find someone who has already done that analysis and is willing to share, but I think it's a long shot. Good luck with the venture. Have you considered using rubber bushings instead?

I believe it's around 127 or so.

Hahaha!!! Got it!

My (hopefully sage) advice would be to start with the small, simple, obvious. Take a pic of the back of your alternator and post it here so we can confirm that you have the right alternator. Start there.

That all makes sense. Many people do some of their best thinking in that location!

Glad you're happier. So just how corporate are we talking? Are we talking "Now I understand Dilbert, and it's really really funny" kind of corporate? But whatever the details, Just glad you're happier!

LOL!!! Here's hoping we didn't run him off with our (hopefully good natured) irreverence !

Uhhh... bluez, You know your car isn't blue, right? Seriously though, welcome aboard! 😃

There should be a vacuum line coming up out of the squarish portion of both front and rear carbs. The connection from the front carb controls the distributor vacuum, and the one on the rear carb controls the EGR system. If you're not running EGR, you can do without the one on the rear carb, but the front one most likely has to stay. And the air bypass hoses are a requirement. They need to stay. Can you post up a pic of the documentation you are operating from?