Captain Obvious

Got it. So metal to metal it is. Thanks!

The adjustable gas pedal stop screwed into a boss on the floor.... Should there be a rubber cover over it, or is intended to be metal-to-metal? @Parman , Your original one looks like this. Located down in the lower right of your pic: Should there be a rubber pad on the metal disk, or is supposed to be bare?

Haha!! That's what I tell myself. 😃

@CanTechZ Thanks!! And a completely unprofitable amount of time later, I have these...

Yes, I apologize... In true internet forum fashion, I got involved in the topic and never answered the question that was asked. And I also apologize that I do not know the answer. I've heard that "everything in front of the firewall was yellow chromate, and everything behind the firewall was clear." Not sure if that's 100% correct, but it's more correct than not. So if that rule holds true, then your brake master clamps should be yellow.

With the flat portion of the roof, it looks a little like a sketch of the 2+2.

Exactly. The point I was trying to make was that even Nissan recommended a support point that wasn't up to the task. Just ask anyone with bent in frame rails. ☹️

I'm not sure when they changed the clamp style, but on the really early cars they used a different clamp style. Does you think your master is original to the car?

Haha! I know what you mean. But wow... Was that really NINE years ago? I've been sitting in this same spot for nine years???

So @Mike , I tried to delete the old obsolete incorrect previous version of the wiring diagram (version 6.0 on page five of this thread), and the edit privileges will not allow me to do so. I'm assuming there is a time limit on how far back in time one can go to edit something? And that post on Feb 11 has exceeded that time limit? Can we change that? Or at least, can YOU delete it if you won't allow me to do so?

Glad to help. Hope you get some good use out of it! Well actually, that's probably not a good sentiment, since it implies you may develop electrical issues that would warrant needing a wiring diagram. So I hope you do NOT get good use out of it! Hahaha!! 😄 In any event, I'm glad to help!

The pics are dead (Cause photobucket sucks!!), but yeah: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/51963-internally-regulated-alternator-trivia-bootstrap-current/ ?

Yes, that would indicate a failed to me as well. It failed open circuit. And by the way, for educational purposes... With the new digital meters, it's pretty much impossible to check diodes integrity using the resistance scale. It needs to be on the diode check setting. If you happen to have an old ANALOG meter with a needle sweep, you can often check diodes with the resistance scale. But analog meters, like the dinosaur, are either extinct, or headed that way. So what SHOULD you have seen? Using the diode check setting, you should have seen "OL" in one direction, and some small voltage in the other direction. Something like 0.50 to 0.80 Volts.

Here's the latest wiring diagram. I moved the horn relay to the interior side of the firewall. It was previously shown out in the engine compartment, but in reality it's actually located on the left side of the interior near the driver's left knee and the hood release pull. Changed the way the alternator and voltage regulators make connection to ground. And made a couple of minor wire color changes. And lastly... Thanks to the help from the folks here, it now has condensers. <V7.0> _obvious 240Z Wiring Diagram 7.0.pdf

Yeah, weird. Another example of the original wiring diagram for the early cars falling short of accurate. The whole reason I started this journey! And I think I'm approaching the end. The mistakes being uncovered up are becoming less severe and less frequent. I'll have the new rev out soon. Changes to the horn system, some power distribution stuff (grounding scheme), and of course, the condensers.

Cool. And those wheels did clean up nice!

Are the lug nuts really aluminum? Really? Was that a thing paired with really light wheels? I would use those on the track and check them often, but sounds sketchy to run aluminum nuts on the street.

Fingers crossed! So the old dead cap either went open circuit, or shorted internally. That style of cap (known as an aluminum electrolytic) has been known to go either way. If it went short, the clock wouldn't run at all. If it went totally open, the clock might work, or might not. Sounds like yours did just that. Hope you're good from here! Too bad about the other clock though. Probably nothing can be done with that one unless you find NOS of the xtal and/or the control chip.

Thanks for the help. I have an incomplete version of the 1970 FSM, but I've been through the EE section. It don't think it shows all the condensers. For example, the circuit diagram you posted only showed the condenser mounted on the distributor. They didn't include the one on the coil attached to the positive side (crudely grafted onto the the diagram below): And they didn't show how the tach connects! At least not until 1972, and it was still cryptic then!

Awesome. Thanks!! And your prolific use of pics and documentation has helped me on numerous occasions. Keep up the good work!! I'm currently working on a set of carb air cleaner attachment hardware stuff based on a sketch of yours from years ago. 😊

Thanks Zed. I will add condensers and publish a new revision to the diagram shortly!

Awesome. Thanks for the help. So it sounds like there are supposed to be four condensers: One on the distributor. One over by the coil, attached to coil (+) One on the back of the alternator, and One by the voltage regulator. Anyone else want to weigh in? Input from people who document pretty much everything? ( @CanTechZ )

Hahahaha!! I've been called worse than stickler as well. And that was just today!! 😄 I'm confident with your attention to detail, that stuff I noticed has already been addressed, or will be in the near future.

So... Condensers. None of them are shown on the original wiring diagrams, yet it is clear that some exist. I'm working on some revisions to the wiring diagram and I'd like to put the condensers on it. It seems pretty clear that there should be a condenser mounted on the distributor. And it's connected to the points side of the coil (coil negative) like this: Next, it seems pretty clear there should be a condenser mounted over on the coil itself. Question is... Should it be connected to the coil (+), or the coil (-)? Seems to me that it should be connected to the coil (+), since the condenser mounted on the distributor is already connected to the coil (-): Next, is the voltage regulator and alternator. Here's a pic that shows the condenser at the voltage regulator, but there is no condenser on the alternator itself: But I've seen pics with a condenser mounted right on the back side of the alternator, like this: So, my outstanding questions are: 1) To which coil connection (battery side, or points side) does the condenser on the coil make connection to? 2) Should there be a condenser on the back of the alternator? And thank you all for the hoovered pics. I'm pretty sure some of them came from members here.