Captain Obvious

OK, I'll look for my sketch. So I've got some questions about this adapter plate you're planning... With the mounting holes being "close, but not close enough", there is significant overlap between the original pattern and the scheme for the 350Z. That overlap presents a set of difficulties in making an adapter plate. It would actually be easier if the patterns were radically different instead of just a little different. Are you planning to make this thing from multiple pieces and sandwich them together? Are you planning to spin the 350Z throttle body a little (clock it 45 degrees or something) so that none of the holes interfere with each other? Something else? Sorry... I'm just having trouble picturing this plate.

Glad you quieted it down and got it running better. So you didn't mention it, but I'm assuming you also fixed the injector O-ring leak while you were in there? Yes, vacuum leaks large and small are the cause of many of the problems with the fuel injection system.

We have a "somethingCast" (Chrome maybe) and something else newer. Two dongles hanging off the back of the TV. Someone in the house surely knows how to use them. I don't use either of them because my flip phone won't talk to them.

Haha! Nice glitch. So this 2-D drawing for inlet face of the stock plenum... I don't have anything in electronic form, but I have a pencil sketch around here somewhere. Would that help?

Not sure why it would do that, but I think it's just the idle air whistling. What happens if you close off your idle air screw completely? You might have to keep it running by manually holding the throttle open a little bit while testing. The reason I ask is because I've messed around with a couple different throttle body options and one of them would whistle like that if the idle air passage was being worked too hard. I made the noise go away by opening the throttle plate a little, which allowed me to close down the idle air passage. More air past the butterfly and less through the idle bypass and it quieted down.

And thanks for the pics Jim!

Congratulations Jim!!

Haha!! I remember that scene (now that you mentioned it). I wonder if one of the TV systems we have in the house will get that for me... I think I need to watch that movie again to refresh my memory. If only I knew how to work the TV systems. We have Netfax and Disney Puss or something like that? I'll need a navigator.

If you find any good info on the butterfly sizes, let us know. And good luck with the project.

Gotcha. Of course it's impossible for me to tell from just the pics, but from my end of the screen it doesn't look like there's enough meat. But do you really need 75mm? Is there any downside for "too big"? I'm thinking that because of the inherent non-linear nature of butterfly valves, that it could be twitchy at low throttle positions or something?

The engineer didn't do anything wrong with that pic. If that pin and hole it fits into are clean and well lubed and aren't deformed from mis-treatment... It will slip in and out with two fingers. The problem is 1) They didn't lube it at the factory when they put it in the first time so many of them have rusted up, and 2) Many of the pins have been deformed by people working on the cars after they left the factory. Kicking up burrs on either the pin or the strut housing.

I've seen many spacers with that sag. Probably just a shrinkage phenomenon from the molding process.

Forgot. Your mention of the choke cables reminds me... Unless they are loose in the box somewhere, you don't have the clamps that fasten the ends of the choke cables on the round tops. The flat top clamps are different and won't transfer over. Edit - Found a pic. They look like this:

Wow. Shiny. Yes, all the EGR stuff can go away. Not that it matters to the discussion, but the control for the EGR doesn't actually come from the distributor. It comes from a relay mounted to the front right engine compartment, under the coil (I think). But whatever. Haha! You don't currently have any water passages between the carbs and the manifolds. And you still won't after you put the new stuff on. They're four screw round tops and there are no water passages through the carb faces. I'm sure there will be some small gotchas along the way, but let's deal with them as they come up.

Wow wow wow... I haven't thought about that movie in forever! I've seen it a bunch times, but unfortunately don't remember any good lines or situations. All I remember is a dead guy and one guy was very afraid to drive a certain color car. Yellow maybe? Red? Saw himself in a mirror on the highway? @Pilgrim, I just watched that clip you posted. I remembered it as it played. That was excellent! Disappointed I didn't remember that without the hint.

LOL! So the mounting pattern is not the same. Bummer. I was trying to dig into that for you, but didn't come up with anything concrete in time. So is there enough meat to file the holes on the TB so you can get it to mount? Or is it just too far off?

Oh well. I was just wondering if there were any conclusions to be drawn from the readings. Unfortunately, the readings don't really make much sense, so there's no conclusions to be had.

Yeah, that would make more sense and that's why I was wondering if I missed a decimal point or something. If the red car were 2.2 instead of 22, it would line up better. But I don't see any decimal point there. So I have no idea what to make of those readings then. And of course, there's all the stuff that Zed Head mentioned too. Different person using different gauge in different ways on different locations on different cars. Who knows what could happen. It all just looked too weird to me and I wanted to see if someone could put their finger on it.

Wait... The red car has an average reading around 22 mil which is .022 inches, right? This works out to about 0.56 mm. While the white car has an average reading of around 0.20 mm. That means the red car has almost three times as thick a coating as the white one? I must be doing a math error in there somewhere... Am I missing a decimal point or something?

Hmmmmmm.... So how accurate are paint thickness meters? Here's a couple spots from red one that is supposedly original paint: And here's a couple spots from the white one that was repainted: What do the paint experts make of this?

Glad to help. None of this would be so confusing if they would have just shown that sub-harness on the wiring diagram. Haha!

Ooops. Sorry, I gave you the wrong answer on that one. Glad @zKars was there to supply the correct answer. Thanks for the link to your other thread. I didn't look at it yet, but will when I get a chance.

Thanks Zup!! I appreciate the kind words. And I trust your judgment about the genuine nature of the antenna and the guy offering it!

Haha!! I can't make that in my shop. But I did make these:

I think they're smaller than that. All of that small stuff is M6 x 1.0 . For comparison, the throttle body mounting bolts are M8. BTW - What's the link for that throttle body thread on HybridZ? I'd like to take a look.