Captain Obvious

My little eye spies the wrong clutch master cylinder. It's a Nabco, but it's the new style. You guys are all gonna regret me seeing an early car with my own two eyes. Hahaha!! You need one of these. Maybe not quite as crusty, but this style:

Here's a couple other pics that might help get the barrel out of the housing. It's been a number of years since I was into the locks... You may need to have the key installed in the lock in order to get the barrel out. You can see the retaining tumbler at the back of the assembly. Press that down and the barrel should slide out: And once that's done, you're looking at this:

The hatch lock is one of the easiest to deal with. Just don't break the little tabs off the facecap.

You should be able to pull the plugs and get a view of the piston tops. Won't tell you what your compression numbers should be, but at least you will know if the pistons are dished or flat topped.

Yikes. Yeah, that sleeve has seen better days! And I'm assuming there was corresponding wear on the bushings as well. The original bushings are oil impregnated sintered material, but mine looks like there is also grease in the groove between the two bushings. Yours was clearly beyond salvage and I'm glad your repair job fixed you up! I'm hoping with fresh new grease on mine, I can leave that part of my pedal alone.

Will do. As soon as I know that this whole thing isn't a disastrous failure. Parts on order...

Sorry I missed the show. I was working on a Z... That counts a little!

Got it, thanks. I've got a goal now!!

Are you talking about the little brass piece that fits in the slot in the plastic block?

Have you got a pic of the part you lost?

Excellent, thanks! With your pics as guidance, I took a good look at the bushings on mine, and I think they are ok. I will clean them up good and start again with fresh grease. I think all of my pedal issues are up at the clevis. Working on clevis stuff in this other thread: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/60310-squeaky-clutch-pedal-and-clevis-pin/#comment-665374

Hmmmmm.

Thanks. So the router bearing you used was a ball bearing, not a sleeve, right?

@jwtaylor, I know it's unlikely, but do you have any pics of this process? I'm guessing if you had any, they would have been posted as part of this thread already, but couldn't hurt to ask.

@zKars, I've got the clutch pedal out of my 280 at this very moment, and no surprise, the clevis pin and it's associated hole in the pedal is worn and needs to be addressed. Not as bad as what 2377kN found, but bad enough that it's time to do something about it. Have you got any pics of your solution where you installed a bearing into the pedal hole? I'm hoping you could save me from reinventing the wheel here. I mean, I could certainly just bore out the hole and use a larger clevis pin, but a bearing... That's sweet.

Hahaha!!

Sigh... You really want bowl drains? This happened many moons ago...

Oh great. Now what's Cliff gonna do????

Yes, it's normal. What is this "easy" thing you talk about? Working on cars is hard.

"Wake The Sleeping Beast" or something like that. @siteunseen will be along in a moment to point you to the correct thread.

Were you there last year? And if so, did you have your Z, or were you in one of the other cars in the stable?

Awww man. I usually go to that show, but I'm not gonna make it this year! Kinda snuck up on me, and I just can't swing it. Aaaaargh. Would have really enjoyed meeting you.

I'm a fan of the flat tops, but they are more complicated than the round top. And complicated is not "the easiest way". I'd suggest taking the entire intake manifold(s) off and replacing it with the round top rig you have there.

There is no drain on the flat tops.

duplicate