Captain Obvious

Naaa. Too long. You can find something shorter, can't you? Something from a not DOHC head?

I've not had good luck getting the plastic chromed mount out. I had one original knob where the glue joint failed and that one was easy, but if you can't simply knock it out easy, then I don't have any suggestions. I've not been able to salvage both the plastic and the wood on the knobs and one or the other had to be sacrificed to save the other. Here's one where I saved the plastic: Sorry... That's all I got.

Cheaper AND some adjustment features. Nice!

That 2X speed is really unnerving. Sounds great though! Sounds angry! I suspect your Z is like most of the other 280Z's out there with a multitude of little issues that add up until it becomes a big enough of an issue to cause a problem. Things like dirty/worn/damaged/broken electrical connectors, vacuum leaks, previous owner's modifications, etc. And most of the electrical connection issues can be intermittent and come back at the most inopportune time. All that wiggling you did to the wires leading to the thermostat housing... None of that wiggling should have any effect. And if there IS an effect, you have questionable connections that need to be addressed. There should be no effect caused by wiggling anything going to the thermostat housing, the AFM, any of the injectors, or the fusible links. Here's hoping you put a nail in it, but just remember... If you have time to work on the car, clean or replace some connectors.

Forgot to mention... I took a couple minutes to look into the possibility of modifying the hex cap to be able to use injector filters instead of the original carb filter, and I came to the conclusion that it's not feasible. Using a custom cap with a recessed area to accept the closed end of the filter seems like it would work, but the problem is the other end. There diameter of the injector filter is just too small and interferes with the raised lip down inside the carb body that's supposed to align the non-cap end of the filter.

Beautiful work. It's so fun to be putting together clean shiny parts! Didn't want to clutter up that other thread, but thought you might like a pic of the last shift knob I made:

You are not alone... Last time I did that I sounded like Ralphie's Dad from A Christmas Story when he was working on the furnace.

Ahoy Dr. Dave! Makes perfect sense to me! I know your car is nowhere near stock. I was just curious if you thought there was some performance benefit to the changes above. I never even thought that beautiful fancy cross member might be cheaper than a stock replacement. Looks great!

Actually I believe there are two references being thrown around above... The original pic that Mike posted is from an animated TV series - "Avatar: The Last Airbender". But I'm not sure that Zup knew that and quickly turned to a Dune reference. I'm thinking that it was because of the glowing eyes (which featured prominently in the Dune movie). So Mike's original ref was from Avatar, but Zup's was from Dune. And then I tried my best to tie the two together as I'm a big fan of both.

Excellent! It's not unusual at all for this kind of thing to be multiple different issues culminating in a problem. Let's hope that's the end of this issue and on to the next! Because you know... There will be a next.

LOL!! Nice parts! So... Other than the obvious "because you can", is there a reason you changed the cross member and the oil pan?

Nice. I should maybe change that to be my avatar. Or would that be bending the rules? Ooops... Gotta go. It's Melange time!

Good results! So was there a thread here on the forum where you were working on fixing the WOT lean out problem with the SUs? I don't remember such a thread, but that sure doesn't mean it didn't happen.

What he said. Looking at the documentation, it appears that 77 and 78 share the same Nissan part numbers, but 76 is different. I do know that they started putting the altitude compensator device (module under the dash above the driver's knees) in 77. So that would definitely be a difference between the CA parts for 77 and 78, but I don't know why the non-CA parts would be different as well. Also interesting that the JECS numbers are the same for 76 through 78. Anyway... Sorry. but I honestly don't know what all the differences are, so unless someone else does, the safest thing would be to get one from 77 or 78.

Nice. And cheap too! I've made a number of shift knobs to date, and I wouldn't sell them at that price. Of course, mine are better. Those ebay knobs look OK from a distance, but the shift map is the stumbling block. Well worth the money though if you don't need something closer to original!

So yes... It sounds like your TVS isn't closing properly. That won't cause your car to die while driving though. Hard to make out much from that video. The audio is so bad that I can't tell what's going on. I can't make out if you are cranking the engine, or if it starts or not. I've got no video experience at all, but it would help (me at least) if I could hear the sounds of the engine.

So much pressure to perform!!! Here's my steering rack thread. The original pics are dead because Photobucket sucks, but the important ones have been reloaded later on in the thread: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/48621-steering-rack-disassembly-and-refurb/ If there's any other pic missing that you want to see, let me know and I'll see if I can reload it.

Glad to help. No, the TVS should be either "infinite" or "zero", so checking that on the 200 Ohm scale is the appropriate setting. Your HF meter probably reads between one and two Ohms on the 200 Ohm scale with the leads shorted together (mine reads 1.3 Ohms or so). So if you're checking the TVS (TPS), you should see pretty much that same reading when the switch is closed. WOT side closed at WOT. Idle side closed at idle. If the idle side isn't closing, it's probably either an adjustment issue, or someone has been in there messing with it.

Yeah, I'm not exactly sure why then needed that device in there at all in the first place. When the fuel vapor expands, you want it to push into the carbon can. It will do that with just a hose. When the fuel vapor contracts, you want to prevent a vacuum on the fuel tank, and there's already a check valve built into the filler cap that will prevent that. I haven't looked into it, but I'm unclear why they thought they needed that fancy unbalanced two way check valve at all. Maybe they wanted to run "a little bit" of positive pressure in the tank to help out the fuel pump?

Happy birthday to both of you! bartsscooterservice, You should send me one of those valve compressor tools for your birthday!

You have your Ohmmeter on the 200 Ohms range. That means the meter "pegs out" at 200 Ohms and any resistance reading higher than that reads as "1 ." There is probably nothing wrong with the air temp sensors you are looking at. You probably just have your meter on the wrong scale to get the proper reading. At room temperature, the air temp sensor should have a resistance of about 2200 Ohms. So if you try to read that on the 200 Ohm scale, it won't read. And even the next scale up (the 2K scale) is too low as well (since the resistance is greater than 2K Ohms). At room temperature, you'll probably need to go all the way up to the 20K Ohm scale to get a reading off the ATS. The resistance drops as the temperature increases, but the colder it is, the higher the resistance. Check it on a higher range on your meter and see what you get.

If you are getting the correct reactions on pins 91, 95, and 97, then the relay is working properly. I suspect the "failure" you are seeing on the test between 95 and 96 is a test procedure error. You're trying to measure resistance on a device while it's under power, and your meter is not interpreting the results as you would expect.* Out of curiosity... What resistance do you read between 95 and 96 if you swap the two meter leads? Put the meter on the 2K range, not the 2M range. * For those who care... The Ohmmeter works by applying a small known voltage across the device being tested and then measuring the amount of current that flows. If you try to measure the resistance of something that already has a voltage applied to it, the meter doesn't interpret the results correctly. And in this case, if pin 95 is connected to +12 and 96 is connected to ground, you're putting an Ohmmeter directly across a 12V power source. Meter will display incorrect results.

I really like the roadsters too. If I had all the room I needed for cars I wanted, I'd have one of those. I don't know anything about them specifically though, like... Are those the original door pulls? Very ornate! Look like something from a kitchen cabinet. Looks like you need a replacement brake master cylinder. The one you have now just doesn't match the rest of the car.

Well it sounds like progress and you certainly wouldn't be the first person to have multiple failures or things going wrong at the same time. I'm not a big fan of rebuilt components. Let's hope your second rebuilt alternator is the last of the issues!

That's what I figured. That spring can't be too strong as it has to be overcome by that small electromagnet. If the valve is frozen shut due to crusted fuel, you just might be able to manually open it to get some cleaner through it. But if it's a packed solid rusty mess inside, even being able to move that pintle tip probably won't save it.