Captain Obvious

Yeah, with no restriction in the line, I can easily see the pump being able to move fuel from one jerry can to another pretty quickly. That's good news.... Your fuel pump works! The carbs were consuming a tiny bit of that fuel along the way, but most of it was just being pumped from one can to the other. I also do not believe there is an "on purpose" fuel pressure relief built into the mechanical fuel pumps. They have a pair of check valves that just won't work without enough pressure differential across them and the pump will loose efficiency. I haven't been inside one of the original pumps, but that's my read. The "real" solution to the problem would be to install a fuel pressure regulator. That can be in the form of a restriction in the return line, or can be something more glamorous like a real regulator that works at carb pressures. In any event, it sounds like you're well on your way to a solution. Good luck!

Excellent! Should be a lot easier to work on it in NC. You found a dry garage bay for it, right?

Yeah, those compression numbers aren't stellar. Did you have the throttle blocked to WOT while doing the compression test? I do not believe that running rich would make up for poor compression. If you're running all the original hoses and stuff, I wouldn't be surprised at all if you've got a whole bunch of little vacuum leaks. Little leaks like that are killer at idle. Much less of a contributor at higher throttle positions, but a real problem at idle. You want every molecule of air passing through the carbs, not around them. The extra hoses and connections and complexity make it more difficult to achieve that with the flat tops. Also remember than none of the carb systems work great until the engine is up to temp. If you're starting the engine cold and expecting to be able to immediately take the choke off, you're kidding yourself. You'll need some choke (and the associated idle boost it provides) until the engine warms up. Next, if I were doing this, I would try to simplify the system to get things tuned... Remove the air cleaner and plug the appropriate connections. You should be able to remove and cap the anti-backfire stuff, the idle compensator stuff, and the intake air damper control snout lines. You can temporarily live without any of that stuff and disabling them will remove a bunch of potential leak areas.

And I keep meaning to tell you... It was great meeting you at Zcon my friend! I really enjoyed our discussions and I hope we get another chance to get together in the future!

Looks great! There has been some multi-sided discussion in the past, but I would suggest removing the paint from the metal-to-metal clamped areas. Things like the axle flange faces. And make sure you don't have any paint where the spindle pin slides in. So did you put in new wheel bearings? I don't remember seeing that go by.

Just a couple additional thoughts and pics. In a few application specific locations, the Civic cable includes some outer layer protective covering (over the cable sheathing). They use these short covering stubs in areas where there is a cable clamp or where there is a high risk of abrasion. It's another outer layer of protection for the cable inside. These areas are held in place (to keep them from sliding up and down the cable) by crimped metal rings. I found the hex crimped rings are usually jussssst loose enough that you can slide the protective covering up and down the cable a little if you really try. Here's one of the protected areas where you can see the metal rings on the ends. I was able to move this outer cover around to get it into a spot where I wanted it: And here's where I wanted it... I nabbed a throttle cable clamp off (something) and attached it to one of the unused holes in my intake manifold. Slid the outer protective cover so it was centered where the clamp would be in the middle. This keeps the cable from flopping around: And earlier, I admitted overkill on my underdash pedal termination lock. If I were doing it again, something like this would be just fine. Put on a washer with a tiny hole in it, and then put one of these on. This one is Dorman P/N 03337. Not as glamorous, but would work just fine. Less than five bucks off the shelf:

Yes, the loop measurements are correct. So... Does the meter draw any current at all on the power lines? Try connecting it with an Ammeter in series with the meter. Like this: Set your Ammeter for the 1A scale. Battery positive to Ammeter positive. Ammeter negative to gauge positive (gauge G/W). Gauge negative (black) to battery negative. If you don't see anything on the 1A scale, knock the scale down a click and see what happens? If it's dead open, it won't draw anything at all. Like 0.0 Another thought would be to watch the needle when you first connect power to the tach. Does the needle bump at all? In similar devices, sometimes you'll see the needle bump a tiny bit when power is initially applied.

Two gallons of gas should provide you quite a bit of fiddling time. Hours maybe? And to answer one of your questions... Yes, the fuel pump is always supposed to supply more fuel to the rail than the carbs need. There is supposed to be a small restriction in the return line of the rail that acts as a rudimentary fuel pressure regulator and allows a small amount of fuel pressure to build in the rail. If you do not have that orifice in place, you'll pump more fuel (in a circle) than necessary and maybe not have enough pressure in the rail to push fuel into the carbs. So I'm not exactly sure what it is you're describing here... When you were running out of gas while fiddling, I know you were pulling fuel out of the jerry can and sending it to the carbs. But how did you have the return line connected? Were you returning to the same jerry can, or were you returning the excess to the main fuel tank?

So about the cable itself... I started with a Honda Civic cable. 96-2000 will work. I think there might be some slight differences in length, but they are all longer than necessary, so it doesn't matter. Here's what I started with: I cut the original pedal termination off so I could pull the cable out of the sheath. I tried a couple different methods and I found a dremel cutting disk worked best for this Just go slow and let the disk cut. If you try to force it through, you'll blue the cable and fray the strands. After I cut the termination off, I pulled the cable out of the sheath and used the same Dremel cutting disk to shorten the sheath. Here's the tool I used: Now, since I cut off the original termination, I needed a way to replace it once I had shortened the cable. Inspiration hit while I was messing with the Dremel... I made an adjustable cable end stop based on the Dremel collet system. This allowed me to set the cable length by tightening up the collet where the length was within the adjustablility range of the lock-nuts out in the engine compartment. After going through the effort to make this collet system, I wouldn't do it again. I would just use a block with a hole through it and a locking screw to squish the cable. Once you have the cable length set, you should never need to adjust this again ever. When I first did this, I had no idea how many times I would need to adjust the cable length to get it right. In the end, I didn't have to adjust the termination more than once and it turns out that I put way more effort into this part than I really needed to. It's pretty though: So here's the whole under-dash setup. Note that this pic has my first design feedthrough for the fireawll with the threads and ring on the other (inconvenient) side. I made as second one with the threads on the other side so to minimize the under-dash wrenching. The collet lock works great, but is really overkill:

Wait... Isn't it clear that I'm pretty much always feeling a little OCD? Thanks for the offer. Might take you up on that during salt season.

I finally got some pics of my throttle cable conversion uploaded. I put more detail in this thread: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/61044-my-throttle-cable-conversion/ But here's a pictorial overview: Pulled into the abyss.....

I recently completed a throttle cable conversion on my 77 280Z. Combined with my new throttle body, it's smooth as can be. Without going into all the gory details, here's some pics. Here's an overview pic. Cable come through the bulkhead and swerves a soft S-bend towards the master cylinders. This allows some slack in the cable to account for engine movement while running. It also allows clearance for the EGR valve if you are running one. My PO removed mine, but I may reinstall at some point so I wanted the cable to clear. Top level overview: Here's the bulkhead passthrough. I made a threaded adapter and sealing nut on the lathe. The flats allow me to get wrenches on the passthrough from the engine compartment so I don't have to use tools up under the dash. This is the second passthrough I made... First one had the tightening nut on the other side under the dash. It worked fine, but was a real PITA to tighten with wrenches up under there. So I spun it around and made another one with the installation direction reversed:. Don't mind the loose A/C grommet: Here's another pic of the firewall passthrough. In this pic, you can see how the cable is held into the passthrough. The metal ring is crimped into a hex and that clamps down on the cable sheath holding it in place. Since the sheath is pretty much always in compression, it doesn't have to be a hard lock, but it's nice that the sheath is a decent friction fit into the passthrough. Yes, that's a cable RG-6 crimp tool used for cable TV and Ethernet. I got lucky and it works great for what I was doing: Under the dash, I converted over to a different connection design on the pedal. I purchased an already messed up pedal from someone with a failed cable conversion. He had already removed the original ball stud, so I drilled the hole out to the correct size to tap with threads and ran a tap through. I also made an "L" bracket adapter to attach to a Honda Civic throttle cable. I ground a little off the end of the pedal to get the angles right, and... Here's the parts separate: Another pic showing my original pedal next to my modified version. Here's the parts put together. A little blue threadlock on the bolt and it looks like this: So out in the engine compartment for the termination end at the throttle body, I made a bracket that mounts where my AAR used to attach. I have switched over to a different throttle body and the AAR is no longer needed so those holes were re-purposed for my cable bracket: And here's another pic of the bracket up by the throttle body. Note that doing it this way also allows me to adjust the throttle cable play extremely easy using the original Civic adjustment nuts: I'll talk about the cable itself in a little bit.

That inductive loop is just that... A single loop of standard wire. It should read as a direct short on the meter. Can you point me towards the on-line article you were using for connection wiring? I've never messed with one of those tachs, but I might be able to come up with something. Are the wire colors the same as the Z's that used the inductive style tach? Nevermind that. I see they are different colors. Do you know what the third (blue with stripe) wire is supposed to be for? Is that for illumination?

I will post pics of my setup tomorrow. Promise.

Tape measure quality measurements: About 14.5 inches direct shot (as the crow files). About 4" elevation change (the holes in the intake manifold are 4" higher than the hole in the firewall). About 3" side-to-side change (the holes in the intake manifold are about 3" further toward the centerline of the vehicle than the hole in the firewall). And remember that you want a little slack in the cable between the firewall and the engine to allow for engine movement. You don't want it so tight that when the engine moves, it changes the throttle position.

Yeah, there are certain things/brands that are often considered the "gold standard" in industry, and the Stanley Vidmar cabinets are one of those things. I'd love to have a wall full of them, but just don't have the dollars. Congrats on the find. I assume you got those at auction?

Argh.

Cool! Sounds like great progress. I don't know what type of rubber they are using for those bowl gasket seals in the rebuild kits, but I've found the same thing you have. They suck. If you never have to take the bowl cover back off, it's fine. But if you're on and off with the cover a couple times, that swelling is a real PITA. I've not found source for the seals loose. The only ones I've seen are in the rebuild kits, and I assume they are all the same crappy material. Look at the bright side... If it swells, it makes a better seal, right? See? Waste of time to spend all that time dinking around with precise mechanical measurements with calipers and stuff. Just get it preliminary and then use the sight glass for the real setting. And if you got them close on the bench, then they should be pretty good on the car. You'll still need to verify with a mirror or endoscope, but it should be pretty close.

As a challenge to myself, I spent a couple minutes trying to triangulate some detail in the background of that pic to pinpoint the exact year. I unsuccessfully tried a whole bunch of obscure different angles... Things like digging into Aladdin, Tahiti (or Tahitian), Grand Q, Churchill Downs. Frank Gorshin in Vegas. Unfortunately, all of that stuff was going one for a wide year range and I couldn't figure out a way to nail the year down. The blue Nevada plates of that style were issued from 74 to 81, so no help there: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle_registration_plates_of_Nevada I was hoping I could find some kind of clue, but couldn't. Fun, but failed.

I wouldn't recommend that. I've seen where people have had stuff partially submerged in that type of chemical and it can develop a significant pit/erosion line right where the submersion stops. Something abut continually converting and rusting and converting and rusting... All along one tiny line. Ends up removing a bunch of metal right at the liquid line.

Wait.... "Probably"??? So my non-expert opinion for the rusty input shaft is... I think you're making more out of it than you need to. I wouldn't take anything apart. I'd buzz the input shaft clean with a wire wheel and use a shop-vac to try to keep any debris from disappearing down into the snout. And the little bit that does get down there should be on the dry side of the seal anyway and shouldn't cause much problem. I wouldn't take the tranny apart for that. You don't even know if it works properly. I'd clean it up and put it in the car. Give it a try at speed and see what happens. If the clutch disk fits smooth over the splines, you should be good. And I wouldn't worry too much about the pits on the input nub either. A sleeve bearing is pretty tolerant of that sort of thing. In fact, sometimes they put recesses in surfaces on purpose to try to hold onto lubricant (like your steering rack bushings). I'd buzz the worst of it off carefully with the wire wheel and then sand that down to bare clean metal with some 400 grit and wd-40. Just don't go hard with the wire wheel on that nub or the splines or you could cause some damage. And then use a sleeve style pilot bearing. I wouldn't want to run a needle bearing on that, but I'd be willing to give a sleeve bearing a run there. Of course, all that's just dissenting opinion. I'm cheap and I'm no expert.

Excellent. Glad you got that first float pin out, and I hope you have the same success with the second. So, if you modify the carbs like I did, make sure your machinist understands that the access cap holds the pin in place and prevents if from slipping out of it's mounts. In other words... Once the cap is screwed tight into place, there needs to be a tiny amount of side to side play in the pin, but not nearly enough that it can slip out of either hole in the carb body. Too short and the pin will be able to slip out of a hole and the float can come loose on one side. Too long and the pin will punch through the cap when you tighten it down. Don't do either of those. And if you have someone make a new pin, they'll need some precise diameter sized metric rod stock for the pin. Use something already ground to size unless you have a centerless grinder at your disposal. As for the needle valves, you won't really know if there's any difference until you get things put back together again. Might be fine, or you might have to adjust the float tang.

Yup. My pass through the firewall was based on your fantastic work preceding mine. Mine is pretty much the same concept, but different shapes. My connection to the pedal is very different though. I ditched the original ball and attached a bracket to the end of the pedal to make connection to the cable. Not easily reversible, but I started with a donor pedal that was already screwed up by a previous owner's attempt to run a cable. So for some pics of what zKars did, have a look here: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58472-throttle-cable-upgrade-all-the-way-to-the-pedal/ And I still promise pics of mine when I get some.

@Zup, You might be interested in the above as well. It's another one of the non-visible mods that I have done to the anchors.

Haha! I was figuring the carb was open and dry enough that I wasn't worried about fuel still inside. Sure, if it's still got fuel in it, then a torch would be tricky. But I was figuring it was dry. And yes, you would have to keep the heat away from the plastic floats themselves. I was figuring you could maybe get a little heat on the short stub of the end part of the pin that protrudes out into the hole. That and maybe some on the carb body itself from the outside at the blind end of the pin. And that rusty nut remover is an induction heater and I really doubt you could get the coil down into the hole far enough to have any impact on the pin. If I were to go through this again, I would probably drill a small access hole through the carb body to the blind end of the pin and use a small rod to push the pin out from that end. Essentially complete the pin hole all the way through both sides of the carb body. Then tap the new hole for threads and run a loctited plug screw into the hole to seal it. And, I've already fixed this problem on the last set of flat tops I worked on so it would never happen again. I made new float pins that are maybe a quarter inch longer than the original ones so there is a lot more material to grip to pull them out. Then I bored out the sealing caps to include a recessed area in the middle to account for the longer pins. Here's a couple pics. Longer pin with much more to grab: And the recess in the cap to account for the additional length: For a fee, I may be persuaded to repeat that procedure.