Captain Obvious

Spot The Bot - The Sequel!!

Spot The Bot!!!

My prior digging around about such matters leads me to believe that the stabilized gauge design was originally invented by Smith Gauges out of England in the late nineteen-fifties or early sixties. That stabilizer design quickly proliferated, and by the mid-sixties pretty much all the auto manufacturers were using a version of that design. A quick web search came up with lots of hits including this summary by whatever AI bot decided I needed to know: "Smiths voltage stabilizers, used for their bimetallic gauges in classic cars (like MGs, Triumphs, Fords) from the 1960s onwards, were mechanical devices that converted varying dynamo/alternator voltage to a steady ~10V, preventing inaccurate fuel/temp readings; they worked by heating a bimetallic strip that rapidly opened/closed contacts" So between that, and the fact that I've been inside a few mid-1970 gauges (which were stabilized just like the later ones), my answer to your question would be "I assume Datsun used the stabilized design from the very beginning." As for the info in the service manual, I assume it's just another case of incomplete or incorrect info in the documentation. There are lots of examples of that.

Hmmm... The basic concept they used is the same for all the years, but I believe the gauge I used for the pics is from a 77 280Z.

The oil pressure and temp gauges share a regulator (one reg inside that instrument case) and the fuel gauge has it's own. The ammeter and/or volt gauges do not use a regulator. Details about how the regulator(s) works: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/67803-how-the-gauges-work/

Yup!! I hit the report button first for Mike and put up the "spot the bot" notice for everyone else.

Spot The Bot!!! 😀

Don't take a complete break... How about you check in once in a while at least? Monthly maybe???

Thanks guys. Appreciate the help.

Speaking of MIA... Anyone hear anything from Wayne @wal280z Last I heard, he was in the Virginia Beach, VA. I've been trying to get in touch for a while and have not succeeded. Would appreciate a hand if anyone knows him or is in the area!!

First drive! That's awesome! Congrats!!!

Will do. Thanks!

Spot The Bot!!

Spot the bot!!! @Mike Can you please nuke these two recent bots? Why this thread all of a sudden??

What were the other two options other than zell? I got scammed once, but thankfully I used PP and (it took some time, but) I was able to get my money back.

@Mike Might want to have a look here.

It was supposed to be "your typo" (not the contraction you're), but I doubt that will be enough to make the connection. Your typo in the title of this thread... "Frange", makes me think of an old movie scene.

Can you take a pic of where it's leaking?

"This conversation can serve no purpose anymore." You win this round of Spot The Bot!!

I can't add much to the bolt hunt that isn't already covered, but I just wanted to pop in here quick and salute your typo.

Now get some sleep. 🙂

And the magic number is 11 rotations of the cam, or 22 rotations of the crank. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/62752-bright-links-on-timing-chain-line-up-every-11-rotations/

Spot The Bot!!! @Mike

My daily for the last bunch of years... My trusty steed, my Civic hatch.

What he said. Just cap off the brake booster and the transmission vacuum lines for now. As for the intake/exhaust gasket, yes they are cheap and readily available. Only problem is in order to replace it, you need to pull both the intake and the exhaust off the head. And that extra trouble step is why sometimes people try to reuse the old gasket. If yours was in good enough condition to maybe reuse, then some silicone would probably make it leak free. But if half of your old gasket peeled off the head and stayed with you original flat top intake manifolds.... Well then, you're asking for trouble.