Captain Obvious

Zed Head, Yeah, I turned up that ebay link when I went searching, but I found it on ebay US instead of ebay Ireland. Same item number, but a slightly different listing. Item number 171746383140 and here's the listing I found previously on ebay US: https://www.ebay.com/itm/6x-RAM-Fuel-Injector-For-485cc-NISSAN-Skyline-RB30E-280ZX-300ZX-Z31-High-Flow/171746383140?hash=item27fce1d524:g:UTgAAOSweGxZc4v7&vxp=mtr When you look at it on ebay US, there is a sentence in the item description that reads: 1/84-9/89 Nissan 300ZX Z31 3.0L VG30E. 9/85-12/90 Nissan Skyline R31 3.0L RB30E. NEWRAM PERFORMANCE FUEL INJECTOR -PIG TAIL. up to 8/85 Nissan Skyline R30 2.4L L24E. 10/78-5/84 Nissan 280ZX S130 2.8L L28E. That sentence is not included in the Ireland listing. Interesting to me because of the mention of "Newram", possibly as a manufacturer's name? But I unfortunately turned up a dead end on "NEWRAM" as well. Google just found lots and lots of "NEW RAM" injectors for my Dodge.

That's just so wrong. I mean, if you know ahead of time, it's not the end of the world. But with no notification about the change... That's just wrong. Glad you got it figured out before you ran a nut fully down onto one of those studs. How Do I Hate Rebuilts??!!

So I took a look at my PO installed aftermarket injectors and couldn't find any part numbers on them. The only markings I could find was "RAM". I took a look on-line for that, and unsurprisingly, the only thing I could turn up was Dodge Ram injectors. Anyone know anything about these? Heard of that manufacturer?

Confusing and contradictory. The parts breakdown clearly shows two washers P/N 43211-N3400 used on each side of the distance piece, but I think it's a documentation error. On page RA-9 of the 73 FSM, they make a vague reference to the "bearing washer" in step 7 when they say to "Remove the distance piece, companion flange, and bearing washer." At that stage of disassembly, they have already removed the large staked (caulked) retaining nut and pulled the stub axle out of the housing, so it's clearly not talking about the hardened washer under the staked over retaining nut. That's a different washer. And there's no way you need two of those things on each side... Makes no sense at all. Also note that in later versions of the documentation, they stopped referring to that bearing washer, thereby supporting the belief that it was dropped from later cars. I think the documentation is wrong and there was only one per side, and the correct location is not what is shown in the parts breakdown pic. I think it should be between the inner bearing and the companion flange. I also think the "from 7308" usage dating should be a "to 7308" (not from, but to) if that washer was used up to sometime at the end of the 240 cars. The distance piece was selected at the factory based on the width of the counterbored faces that support the outer bearing races. Seems they couldn't quite control the machining tolerance well enough there, so they resorted to characterizing the assembly using different length supports between the inner races so there wouldn't be too much side load on the bearings. I think a washer in there would completely defeat the distance piece selection and end up with way too much side load on the bearings. Anyway, I think there should only be two of them per car. And (like others) I didn't have any of those on my 280.

I don't know anything about plating other than it's one of the black arts and I suspect that small seemingly immaterial details might not be so immaterial. For example: About brass vs. copper wire: Was the copper wire nickel plated, or bare? Who knows what nickel would do in the mix... Also, since brass contains zinc, maybe the localized zinc source helps prevent marks where the wire was? (As opposed to high purity copper with no zinc) About the sacrificial zinc anode: I couldn't find details on just how pure Caswell's zinc plate is, but I did find an MSDS for Moss Boss that says it could be as low as 98% zinc and as high as 2% copper. Who knows what copper would do in the mix on the plate... MSDS here: https://www.menards.com/msds/103923_001.pdf Just musing...

Well if that burner works for your 29F200, I suspect it would work fine for my 29F400. Please keep me posted? And good luck with the microsurgery on the surface mount package. I've been in that situation as well and am pretty good with establishing some sort of temporary mitigation. If you get really desperate, you can grind off some of the plastic case to expose more of the leadframe to give yourself more metal to solder to. It only has to work once.

Thanks again guys. I haven't looked my injectors over for numbers. I kinda wrote them off as aftermarket and haven't checked. I'll do that and let you know what I find. ZH, that's what I mean about the spiderwebbing out in many different directions. Many of the numbers come back to credible sources, but you can usually triangulate back to something with confidence. But in this case the web is so wide and interconnected that my confidence is low.

So is that a smaller diameter shift map than the one used on the 240Z? Or is it the same one, just in a different color? Or something with a completely different construction (like cloisonné)?

Cool. Thanks!

Q - Overheating after modifications, what am I overlooking? A - The cork you left stuck inside the radiator outlet tube. Glad you found your smoking gun and fixed the problem, and I think we've all been there, done something like that!

Well that's certainly cheap enough. If that really works for the 29F400, I'd' spend the fifty bucks to buy one of those. You wouldn't happen to have any 29F400's laying around to test with, would you?

ZH, I wouldn't be surprised at all to learn that the same base injector with different lengths of rubber tubing resulted in multiple Bosch part numbers. Muddies the waters looking for potential replacements, but makes perfect sense. And thanks for the additional info. I read through the old mailing list blog, and there's some good stuff in there. I really wish I could figure out some way to verify that the injectors in my car are appropriate. My PO was known to make some questionable choices in the pursuit of performance, and I don't know if he thought "well larger injectors will give more gas, and more gas means more power, right?" That would be the kind of thing he would do, and I have no way to know for sure. I guess I could assume the prevalent belief target of 188cc/min to be accurate and measure a couple of mine to see if they're anywhere close to that.

I don't know when some of those modifications started coming from the factory (instead of being done at the dealers), but I think by the time they got the 74, most of that stuff was landing already done. Like the holes in the air cleaner and the fuel line insulation. Dlobi, If you hadn't seen that 73-74 fuel modification documentation before, there's some really great stuff in there. And it's clear that a lot of the modifications and remediation work was being done "on the fly". I've heard lots of stories about heat related issues with the carbs, but thankfully I've never personally experienced it. And not to turn this into a for sale thread, but I think I've got a spare flat top air cleaner around here that I could part with. Send me a PM if you're interested.

I don't have one. I'm just curious... Have you got a pic of what you're looking for? Good luck on the hunt!

I agree with your old timer. Same situation as the U-joint yokes to me. I think you are putting an indeterminate, movable squishy plastic surface in an area where it is important to have a predictable hard determinate surface. Does that make me an old timer as well?

Thanks guys. I've continued my web digging, and it just gets worse. Fans out like a spider web to a thousand different numbers and options. I've got aftermarket (salmon colored) in my car now, so I can't even look there. I also can't test them and use that as a "standard" because they were put in by my PO and I have no idea what he used, or if they are the correct ones or not. Zed Head, Can you please double check that P/N you mentioned? There seems to be at least one dyslexic style typo in that number, and maybe more than one? Can you take a look? Other avenues and places where I've found info? ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I've got two Bosch catalogs here that don't have a listing for the Z, but have a listing for the ZX. Both of those catalogs list Bosch P/N 1 660 062 060 for the injector. But it's not the typical 0 280 start to the P/N and I can find very little info online about it. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Tomco catalog says their P/N 15511: http://www.tomco-inc.com/Catalog/fuel injectors (port).pdf And there's an interchange section near the end of the catalog where they say Tomco 15511 crosses to a whole bunch of Bosch injectors, including the 105. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Catalog found here: http://www.fuelinjector.citymaker.com/NISSAN_FUEL_INJECTORS.html Says Bosch 0 280 150 125 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Bostech (remanufacturer) catalog says: http://www.bostechfuel.com/gfiquickcat.pdf Lists a whole bunch of Nissan numbers and crosses them to their rebuilt version Bostech number MP4210. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I don't think there was ever a manual summer/winter flat top air cleaner. The FSM makes a big deal about the ATC (Automatic Temperature Control) air cleaner. They got rid of the manual summer/winter valve and used the new fangled automatic one instead. One of the many, many Z design items that marked the steady slide of "automatic" and "convenience" from 72 until 96. You know... As the weight went up. If you've still got a nipple unconnected, I can take a pic here if that would help. I (think) still have a 74 air cleaner around here somewhere and can take a pic of the back and label all the connections. And about the snorkel... There's no way that snorkel is the limiting factor on the amount of air getting to the engine. Those little holes surely can't matter for the 200 cc displacement change between 2400 and 2600. I wasn't there when they designed it, but I just don't see it.

Does anyone have a number for the flow rate of the original OEM factory injectors? And how about a Bosch P/N for the original? Anyone have documentation for this kind of info? I'm sure it's out there, but I'm also sure someone else has already gone hunting and has that info at their fingertips.

Glad to help continue the existence of a set of flat tops. So I got a question... That nipple on the back of the air cleaner is supposed to go over to the throttle opener solenoid, but you've already got a vacuum tube connected to the solenoid. Looks like it's leading up to the front carb somewhere? What's that hose connected to? And my read on the little holes on the air cleaner goes like this: When the incoming air is warm the ATC control valve on the snout brings in air direct from the snout opening. But when the incoming air is cold, it changes the valve and pulls in air heated from the exhaust manifold. But even when the valve is set to the exhaust manifold intake position, you'll still always mix in a little bit of cool fresh air from those little holes.

The holes are stock. The clip on the top of the air cleaner is meant to hold a vacuum tube that wraps around the front snout air intake and actuates the thermostatic temperature controlled air flappy thingy. The one that pulls air from the exhaust manifold until it warms up. And as mentioned above, the small hose nipple connects a tube to the throttle opener control valve. It's the clean atmospheric source to disable the system when the speed is below 10 mph. It should connect to the solenoid valve here:

Haha!! I was wondering if that was going to go completely unnoticed. I'm sure you've seen deeper trolling than that! It's not trolling if it's true though!!

Haha! So the "E" stands for "empirical"! That's awesome! I never knew that! Drilling that hole through the center isn't going to be a huge amount of fun either. Sounds simple, but probably won't be as simple as it sounds on paper. They use a special cutting edge geometry for brass that isn't as grabby. You'll know what I'm talking about the first time the bit grabs and spins your chuck in the tailstock. You have a set of collets for the lathe? They lend themselves well to this kind of small, high accuracy work. It's nice to be able to work on one end, cut-off, and then spin the part around to work on the other end with pretty good accuracy using just a collet. And your idea of making a block to help locate the holes is a good one. I do that kind of stuff all the time. I've got so many little special purposed fixtures around here that I've forgotten what some of the old ones were for! I'm certainly no machinist, but you know how to reach me if you need a sympathetic ear!

Cool. Sounds like a healthy path. But why are you trading down from the 77 to a 240?

Right, and that's my point. If it's so friken ugly now that it simply won't sell without a coat of paint, then I'd be worried you're putting lipstick on a pig. On the other hand, if it's not so bad now, then let the new owner make that decision. Just don't spray a quick, cheap coat of paint over poor prep and rusty metal and then offload a temporarily, shiny looking, hidden rust problem car onto some other unsuspecting owner in... where are you... in the US. How about some pics of the car as it is and we can give some more detailed input?

I don't want to go on the cart! Seriously though... I'm just a guy with a latte. Those diagonal holes aren't gonna be the easiest thing in the world to do. You'll soon be in the market for a milling machine. Slippery slope I tell ya!!