Captain Obvious

"What Pontiac? is that in the background? " I thought the exact same thing, and boy were we wrong. Not only were we way off in what car it is, but that's the REAR in the pic, not the front!

I have a set like that but I think they made the angle wrong. I never seem to have enough clearance to get the durn thing where I need it.

That whole thing just sounds so wrong... I don't even know where to start.

"As bad as I hate to admit it, directions may have been useful." Whaaaaa? Say it's not so!!

Sheesh. It sure hasn't been a good week for Orlando and my heart goes out to all the people who have been affected by the recent unfortunate events. Not my fault. Honest! I only had good times. Worst event I saw was getting stuck in traffic on I4.

Are you sure you don't have any vacuum leaks anywhere? The big difference in carb settings between front and rear seems odd. I would expect that there might be some smallish difference required between the two, but you've got more than a full turn difference between the two? And the front one is just 3/4 turn down from home stop? That doesn't sound like it should be enough. Makes me wonder if there's not something wrong somewhere. And are you double dog sure you're damper dashpots are working properly? The lean on pedal transition could be a damper issue. That's exactly why they're there.

Nope. You're right. Those are diodes. The R12 is the 47K Ohm resistor by the "R" in R12. The good news is that at least on two of the three of them, you know the polarity direction because of the silkscreen. The third one down by R12, you would need to know more about the circuit in that area to figure out which way it should go. So... They're diodes... There are several different type of diodes, but if they are run-of-the-mill generic styles and not something more application specific (like Zeners) you might be able to replace them with something ubiquitous like a 1N4148 or 1N4001.

Back from Orlando and am catching up. Had a great time. Didn't get the chance to do everything I wanted to do, but I did a bunch. Spent a fun rainy afternoon with @Dave WM . Survived the season's first tropical storm. Ate at the Sloppy Taco Palace. Shopped at SkyCraft. Sampled fine beer flights at a number of the brew-pubs (1010, Ocean Sun, Crooked Can, Hourglass, and Cask and Larder). 1010 was a real treat. I got there too early in the day and they weren't even officially open for business when I got there. They took me in anyway and we spent the afternoon chatting. Just me and the guys from the brewery and a couple of their local friends. It was fantastic. I learned a lot about the Florida microbrew scene. Everyone in the business knows everyone else and they're all friends. Not even considered "competitors", just friends. Had an upscale dinner at Cask and Larder. Took a stroll around Lake Eola. Saw what was left of "Old" Orlando (Robert's Building, Church St Station, Bumby's). Biggest regret was not being able to get an opportunity to meet with @tunesnxs. Next trip hopefully. Thanks to all for the suggestions and hospitality, and hopefully there will be another trip in the future!

It looks to me like the silkscreen printing on the PCB indicate that part is (was) a capacitor (C9), not a diode. Is there a "D?" designation somewhere else close to the part that has turned to dust? How about the other two? Are they the same? (Do they look like they were once the same?)

Been having a blast in Orlando. Spent a rainy afternoon with Dave WM. Went to Skycraft, which was fricken awesome!! To be honest, I was even a little overwhelmed at Skycraft! Too much to see on just one trip. I hit 1010 Brewing and Ocean Sun today which were both excellent. And got some great recommendations for dinner. I'm at the hotel right now drying out before dinner! Ill try to post some pics, but it might have to wait till I'm home. @siteunseen I was wearing my favorite Back Forty Brewing shirt on my travels and it got a great reception at both brewpubs! Wish you could have been there!

Glad to ummm, help? Thanks for the ride in your Z!! Sorry the weather was so rainy, but I guess that's what happens when you go driving around in a tropical storm. ive been having more fun in Orlando since I was at your place. My internet stuff is limited, but I'll try to update my Orlando thread.

And I'm not afraid to use it?

Yeah, I heard that Parramore is rough. Would be nice to see some of it, but I'm not taking any unnecessary chances. At least they don't put the big "rental car" signs on the rental cars anymore. I should be in town tomorrow and will get in touch!

Is there enough meat to open up the ones you have, or is the wall too thin? I have a lathe, but don't have CNC so curves are done semi-freehand. I can do simple stuff. PM me if you're entertaining modifying what you have.

Congrats! Where are those pics you teased us with? Did Zup have his new lug nuts installed?

I did a little digging into historic Orlando and came up with the following that I'd like to see: The Rogers Building - Oldest building in town - Magnolia and Pine. Church St Station - Second oldest building - Original old train station, On church just east of the interstate. Kress Building - Originally a 5 and dime - Orange between pine and church. Bumby Building - Originally a H/W store - Across the tracks from Church St Station Cheyenne saloon - Next to Bumby Dr. P. Phillips House - Historic house SE of center of town. Also, I'd like to drive through some of the old neighborhoods like Parramore and Thornton Park, but I'm not sure if they're tourist friendly. Any input from the locals?

Haha! I showed the map to my wife and told here that it was going to be a tough challenge. It works out to about two stops per day. She reminded me "don't forget... it's a rental car". I'm going to do what I can, but if I'm traveling alone, I just might not be able to hit them all. Man's got to know his limitations.

Excellent. Thanks for the insider info, guys! That's just the kind of insight I need. The weather forecast doesn't look too good, so the hard core out-doorsey things are going to be for another trip. Tuesday looks like I may need a canoe just to get out from the hotel to do some sightseeing! I'd love to get to one of the coasts, but I just don't think we're going to have the weather for it. Skycraft on the other hand, looks like the perfect place to spend a rainy Tuesday! So tell me a little more about the Z junkyard in Sanford? I found Sanford Auto Salvage (http://sanfordautosalvage.com/), but it doesn't appear to have anything to do with Z cars. I also found what I think is a U-pull yard in Orlando called ABC (https://www.usedautopartsfl.com/), but it looks like more hype than anything. Yard looks small. I'm not sure how well it would go over with my wife anyway... "So dear, why are there greasy rusty car parts in the hotel room?" Also, I found the aviation museum: Kissimmee Air Museum - Warbird Adventures - www.warbirdadventures.com/air_museum The Kissimmee Air Museum Open Monday - Saturday ... Museum admission is $10 for adults and $5 for kids 6-12. ... Warbird Adventures, Inc.

Oh man, if you could be there... That would be awesome!! Here's my "map" so far. I put real addresses on it this time to help avoid some of the blind leading the blind issues you and I had last time!

Haha! Actually this is my first time in the Orlando area when a trip to one of the major theme parks is NOT on the agenda. I've got my "map" all made up like the one we used in Memphis. That'll take some time, but there will be time to do other stuff too!

I've got a couple days in the Orlando, FL area next week. Anybody got suggestions of things that I simply have to do while I'm there? Anything Z related in the area?

Are the part numbers on all of the injectors the same? And as for the resistor/no resistor 9V vs 12V thing without getting too deep into theory... The injector contains a coil (an inductor) and the current through that inductor cannot be described simply by (V=IR). The current through an inductor has a function that is dependent on time. It looks like this: Which says "The current at a given time equals the maximum current minus an amount that gets smaller as time goes by." So when voltage is first applied to the inductor, no current will flow. But as time goes by, the current will eventually max out at a value of I=V/R where the "R" in that equation is a combination of the injectors internal resistance, the series dropping resistor next to the brake master cylinder, and the internal resistance of the power source which is supplying the current. When you are testing using a 9V battery, you have removed the dropping resistor from the circuit and if the battery were capable of supplying enough current, the injector would burn up. But thankfully the 9V battery has a lot of internal resistance and is not capable of supplying that much current. The injector current is limited by the fact that the little 9V battery just can't supply that much power. If you would be to connect the injector directly to your big 12V car battery for long enough, the injector current would be limited only by it's own resistance and it would likely draw enough current to burn itself open. Your 9V battery can't do that, but your car battery sure can.

I'm not a coatings guy, but I have a couple questions/comments: First, I probably misunderstood what you were talking about with mixing on a board and a catalyst above, but that 907 spot putty is a one part non-catalyzed solvent evaporation process only. If you were mixing that 907 with the cream or liquid catalyst (that you use with fiberglass or polyester filler), I have no idea what would happen. I can't imagine it would be anything good though. Second, I've been told that powder coating is a difficult surface to adhere to. Tough, hard, slick, non-reactive... All the things you don't want in an undercoat.

I'm away from home and have spotty internet access, so I can't go into much detail, but I'll do what I can. The device you are calling a "transistor?" is a coil or transformer of some sort. Hard to tell from the pics, but it looks like it only has two wires going to it, and if I remember correctly, the whole radio goes dead when it's not connected? If that's the case, it's probably what they call a "choke" and it's purpose is to filter out high frequencies on the power input line so the noise doesn't affect the electronics inside the chassis. If it is a choke on the incoming power, it exists to keep noise from the ignition coil from messing with the radio. Also the terminal block thingie looks to me to be a line of "feed thru capacitors" who are another means to filter signals. One feed thru for each wire entering or leaving the device. Can you take a pic of the other side of that block? Of course I'm looking on a tiny dark screen and am guessing... As for how stuff fits back in, my experience is that kind of equipment is so tightly packed that stuff only fits one way! Think Jenga or Tetris.

You would have had to peel me off that big bandsaw. Also, what's the olive drab green thing in the upper left background of this pic? Right behind the guy?