Captain Obvious

Which choke knob should this car have? Is this the correct one for that date: And while we're talking about knobs... Is the flasher switch knob correct for that car on BAT?

Beautiful car. I'm no expert on the early cars, but at quick glance, here's a couple things that caught my attention: Sucking dirty air into the clean side of the air filter (because the did not cap off the nipple from the deleted the anti-backfire valve system). Unconnected flow guide valve. Aftermarket progressive springs. Plastic fan. Boot on headlight connector out of place and doing nothing. Later design alternator. (Was mentioned on BAT) At least one screw missing on the heater blower motor. Not as grievous as the brake master, but an incorrect clutch master for the date of the car. Also, it looks like the car had been Zibarted. You can see the plugs on some of the pics. Notably missing from the rear side of the RS door jamb near the latch plate. That's the area where they said they put in a new quarter panel. Easy to spot if you compare the right an left side pics. And shouldn't this car have the "D" hubcaps with the valve stem holes in the center of the spokes instead of being in the center of the windows?

I suspect that in order to be period correct, it should leak. 😄

And you are planning to put springs on them thangs, aren't you? Haha!!

And about that wire in the rear... The antenna has a ground connection on the wiring diagrams. I haven't been into that corner of an early car yet, but I thought (without actually seeing it), that antenna's ground connection came from being bolted to the body. Now that I see your harness, I suspect that ground connection to the antenna is NOT simply from connection to the body, but is in fact, a dedicated ground wire leading to the antenna. Do you have an antenna for the car? Is there a ground lead bullet connection attached to it? I've found several other similar issues with the factory wiring diagrams. In many locations, they didn't do a good job of conveying how grounds were connected. And lastly... Yes, the early rotors had holes in them. Aftermarket replacements did away with that, but they are an early car thing.

Yes, the early cars had a fusible between the alternator and the harness. (It's on the wiring diagram I've posted up on the site 😄) : Your spade connector looks a little black and crispy. It's a high amperage connection, so it's super important that it is a good connection. Clean and tight! I also found corrosion underneath the washer on the ground "E" connection that resulted in about a half volt drop when I turned the headlights on. Doing the calculation, it came out to about 50 milliOhms of resistance, but 50 mOhms drops a half a volt at ten amps!! So... Clean and tight!! I can walk you through how I found that questionable connection if you want, but I doubt I would need to do that. Here's my washer with hidden corrosion underneath: I didn't want to put a steel washer back in there, so I made a new washer out of brass: \

Got it. So metal to metal it is. Thanks!

The adjustable gas pedal stop screwed into a boss on the floor.... Should there be a rubber cover over it, or is intended to be metal-to-metal? @Parman , Your original one looks like this. Located down in the lower right of your pic: Should there be a rubber pad on the metal disk, or is supposed to be bare?

Haha!! That's what I tell myself. 😃

@CanTechZ Thanks!! And a completely unprofitable amount of time later, I have these...

Yes, I apologize... In true internet forum fashion, I got involved in the topic and never answered the question that was asked. And I also apologize that I do not know the answer. I've heard that "everything in front of the firewall was yellow chromate, and everything behind the firewall was clear." Not sure if that's 100% correct, but it's more correct than not. So if that rule holds true, then your brake master clamps should be yellow.

With the flat portion of the roof, it looks a little like a sketch of the 2+2.

Exactly. The point I was trying to make was that even Nissan recommended a support point that wasn't up to the task. Just ask anyone with bent in frame rails. ☹️

I'm not sure when they changed the clamp style, but on the really early cars they used a different clamp style. Does you think your master is original to the car?

Haha! I know what you mean. But wow... Was that really NINE years ago? I've been sitting in this same spot for nine years???

So @Mike , I tried to delete the old obsolete incorrect previous version of the wiring diagram (version 6.0 on page five of this thread), and the edit privileges will not allow me to do so. I'm assuming there is a time limit on how far back in time one can go to edit something? And that post on Feb 11 has exceeded that time limit? Can we change that? Or at least, can YOU delete it if you won't allow me to do so?

Glad to help. Hope you get some good use out of it! Well actually, that's probably not a good sentiment, since it implies you may develop electrical issues that would warrant needing a wiring diagram. So I hope you do NOT get good use out of it! Hahaha!! 😄 In any event, I'm glad to help!

The pics are dead (Cause photobucket sucks!!), but yeah: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/51963-internally-regulated-alternator-trivia-bootstrap-current/ ?

Yes, that would indicate a failed to me as well. It failed open circuit. And by the way, for educational purposes... With the new digital meters, it's pretty much impossible to check diodes integrity using the resistance scale. It needs to be on the diode check setting. If you happen to have an old ANALOG meter with a needle sweep, you can often check diodes with the resistance scale. But analog meters, like the dinosaur, are either extinct, or headed that way. So what SHOULD you have seen? Using the diode check setting, you should have seen "OL" in one direction, and some small voltage in the other direction. Something like 0.50 to 0.80 Volts.

Here's the latest wiring diagram. I moved the horn relay to the interior side of the firewall. It was previously shown out in the engine compartment, but in reality it's actually located on the left side of the interior near the driver's left knee and the hood release pull. Changed the way the alternator and voltage regulators make connection to ground. And made a couple of minor wire color changes. And lastly... Thanks to the help from the folks here, it now has condensers. <V7.0> _obvious 240Z Wiring Diagram 7.0.pdf

Yeah, weird. Another example of the original wiring diagram for the early cars falling short of accurate. The whole reason I started this journey! And I think I'm approaching the end. The mistakes being uncovered up are becoming less severe and less frequent. I'll have the new rev out soon. Changes to the horn system, some power distribution stuff (grounding scheme), and of course, the condensers.

Cool. And those wheels did clean up nice!

Are the lug nuts really aluminum? Really? Was that a thing paired with really light wheels? I would use those on the track and check them often, but sounds sketchy to run aluminum nuts on the street.

Fingers crossed! So the old dead cap either went open circuit, or shorted internally. That style of cap (known as an aluminum electrolytic) has been known to go either way. If it went short, the clock wouldn't run at all. If it went totally open, the clock might work, or might not. Sounds like yours did just that. Hope you're good from here! Too bad about the other clock though. Probably nothing can be done with that one unless you find NOS of the xtal and/or the control chip.