Captain Obvious

Here's the pics I took of my seatbelt disassembly. First, a caveat... I didn't take these pics with the intention of using them for a how-to... I just had a dead belt with badly frayed webbing and thought I would take it apart to see how the whole thing worked. I figured I would take some pics along the way so I could refer to them again in the future if I ever needed to. Second, these pics are from a 77, and I have no idea if they are the same on other years, but hopefully they will add some value. I also have pics of the assy before I popped off the side covers, but I'm not including those since we all know what that looks like. Step1 - Wind the seatbelt as far as you can into the retractor assy to minimize the tension in the retractor clock spring. In other words, let the retractor spring pull in as much belt as it can before you loosen the side cover. Once you have the belt fully retracted, use a small screwdriver to pop off the side cover. Note that there will still be some spring tension so be careful. Do not let the side cover spin wildly after you pop it free. Hold the cover with your hand to make sure it does not spin and after you get the last retaining pin free, carefully rotate the side cover to release the spring tension. Count the number of turns it takes to release the tension so you know how many turns to wind it up when you put it back together. Interesting to note that the retractor spring function is completely separate from the rest of the assy. That means for those of you guys with retractor spring problems, all you need to do is pop off that one side and replace the spring. You don't have to mess with the latching mechanism at all. In fact, for the shoulder belt portion, you probably don't have to take the assy out of the car. You can probably do that with the assy still attached to the strut tower. Here's the retractor spring and cover after releasing the spring tension: Step2 - Pop the side cover off the other sire. Here's the latching mechanism side: Step3 - Pry off the little support arm: Step4 - Pry off the latching mechanism: Interesting to note that there isn't a whole lot that can go wrong with the latching mechanism. Probably the simplest thing that can go wrong is the tiny release spring can come off or break and then the latch will operate too easily or will not release at all. Step5 - Pull the retaining pin that holds the take up reel into the bracket. Look down into the belt reel and you will see a retaining pin. Here's the pin fully installed: Here's the pin pulled halfway out: Here's the pin pulled all the way out: Step6 - Pull out the center axle shaft and the take-up reel will come free. The belt is held into the reel by the center axle, so once the axle is removed, the belt webbing can be removed from the take-up reel: Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.

What happened to the threads on your struts is called "galling", and it is an unfortunate occurrence when using hardware like you have there. Especially the Ny-Loc nylon insert anti-vibration style of nuts. The worst situation is stainless Ny-Loc nuts on a stainless shaft. Just don't do it. Here's some discussion about such matters in this thread. On or about page 14: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/61542-koni-sports-for-classic-zs/?page=14 Here's some links that talk about thread galling. Some of these even specifically call out stainless nyloc nuts: https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Materials-and-Grades/Thread-galling.aspx https://www.anzor.com.au/blog/what-is-stainless-galling https://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/Ref_Thread_Galling.html

He made those rivets on a lathe. You're not going to find them off the shelf anywhere. Someone would have to custom make them. And the machine he uses to peen the rivets is more than a simple straight down press. It's more like an impact hammer and press combined together to swage the rivets. If you listen, you can hear the buzzing sound of the impact. This guy has access to lots of machines. And your comment about the tolerance stackup is spot on. Each connection needs a tiny bit of clearance in order spin and the stackup causes that play. I've got machine shop envy.

@HusseinHolland is working on the fuel pump primer. I'm just supporting cast.

Greg, I have only disassembled the later style rack (280), so I'm not positive about the function of that part you are trying to remove. But if it's like the 280 rack, that thing should either tap off or screw off the end of the rack. I would try to twist (in the "unscrew direction") and pull and see what happens. Was there a lock nut threaded onto the end which you already removed? And as for plcs... I reloaded them on page seven of this thread. Take a look here and see if this works for you: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/48621-steering-rack-disassembly-and-refurb/?page=7

Here's a crappy pic from a 74 260Z. Note that it's not the correct filter. Nipples aren't in the correct location, but it was what I could find at the time: Pic is a little too close-up to get a good handle of what's going on, but that's all I could find in my files. And also, I'm not even sure if the 260 is the same as your 73 240Z. But hope this might help some?

Excellent. With newer injectors so much easier to find than the old ones, it's great to figure out alternative!

Including the people who wrote the shop manuals?

How do you know?

The AFR numbers look good. I'm no engine tuner, but I don't think 10-11 at WOT is that bad. Maybe a tad rich, but you usually want it rich at WOT, don't you? As for the resistance measurements, most of them look good. The two where you are sticking the probes into an empty injector socket (to measure back into the harness) really don't tell you much though. You're just reading a combination of ballast resistors and injector resistances in series parallel combination. Didn't hurt anything, but really no good data to be gleaned from that. If you're not sure what I mean... here's a pic that highlights the situation. You're just measuring a couple injectors and their dropping resistors in parallel, etc. In theory, if you're measuring back into the harness with the key off, you should read open circuit. But you would have to disconnect all the injectors (or at least the correct three) to see that. if you crank the meter up to the 2 MegOhm range. you might be able to pick up the leakage current through one of the output transistors in the ECU, but that's about it. So for the rest of the resistance measurements... You measured the ballast resistors at 5 Ohms and the injectors at 15.5 Ohms. Those measurements look great. Let me think about those numbers a little. In the end, if your AFR's are good, all that theory by the Volvo folks doesn't really matter. Might be applicable, might not. But your AFR's are on target, so who's to say there's a problem?

Yeah, I figured you were on top of that, but couldn't hurt to bring it up. And I hope you get your O-ring stuff worked out. Workmanship stuff is a real pet peeve of mine.

Cool. I think that would be interesting to compare against stock. Make sure you short your meter lead tips together and subtract that number from the injector resistance measurement. That shorted reading is lead resistance. For example... When I was measuring the injectors here today, I stuck both meter leads down into the injector connector and made connection to the blades in the JPT connector. I got 3.0 Ohms. Then trying not to move much, I shorted the tips of the leads together while also still connected to the JPT blades. I got 0.6 Ohms. In theory that 0.6 Ohms is lead resistance (plus crappy meter accuracy). Subtract the 0.6 from the 3.0 and I got 2.4 Ohms. The smaller the resistance you're trying to read, the more important it is to account for your lead resistance. Hoping this makes sense?

Page EF-56 of the 76 Manual says the dropping resistors should be 6 Ohms. I have not measured anything to verify. And I didn't find a spec for the injectors, but I measured a couple here and came up with about 2.4 Ohms. No accounting for the absolute accuracy (or inacuracy) of my meter, but that's what I got. Do you know the resistance of the high impedance injectors you are using?

I'm thinking that the higher the injector impedence is, the less impact the dropping resistors will have. What's the static resistance of the new injectors? In other words, if you put an Ohmeter across the new injectors and then do the same with the old, what are the resistances at DC? That dropping resistors would still be in series in the circuit with the "high impedence" injectors, but depending on the resistances, they may be overshadowed by the resistance of the injectors themselves. Voltage divider and all that. For example... If the dropping resistors are 1 Ohm and the injectors are 100 Ohm, it won't really matter whether they are included or not. That may be why you guys aren't seeing much of an impact whether the dropping resistors are installed or bypassed.

So I'm not sure how that pressure regulator is designed inside, but it looks like you've moved to a dead-headed setup at the rail? The original system is bypass scheme.

Perfect. Then throw the front cover on and fire that thing up!! Haha! I also noticed that you are running the eccentric cam to drive a fuel pump, but you certainly are not going to be running a mechanical fuel pump with that EFI system. Doesn't hurt anything, just unnecessary.

Looks way better! So I can see the timing mark on the cam sprocket. Using position 1 (which makes sense with new timing components), but I can't see the mark on the crank gear. Are you positive sure you got the timing marks correct?

Well I guess at the end of the day, your wideband would be the best determination of whether those injectors are appropriate. I'm interested because there's a local to me Z guy who is dealing with some injector issues. I've been thinking about just jettisoning the whole stock system like you have and moving to something different. I remember reading somewhere (hoovered) that the flow rate can be considered relatively linear with respect to fuel pressure. At least within a range close to the rated flow. So if something flows "X" at "Y", it should flow 0.83X at 0.83Y. Do you know what GM vehicles used those injectors you have there?

Yeah, that thing about the clamps being asymmetric is really weird. But after seeing so many sets with the same shape, it's clear that it was done on purpose. And I'm still not sure it really matters much. But since I'm a stickler for details like that!

" I thought it would be something more... obvious, like Right." Haha!!

How does the flowrate of those new injectors compare to the originals? I did a very little looking around a while ago and it seems the originals are low flow compared to most of the newer stuff.

I'm doing very similar configuration to what you did. I shaved .010 less than you did, but same P79 head and F54 block and also stock valves. I've got a second set of parts here, slack guide and tensioner. Maybe I'll throw them on just to see if they are any different than what I've got mocked up on the block now. In theory, if a manufacturer put a little extra plastic material on the end of the tensioner shoe or the slack side guide, it would change the positioning of everything. So I've got a different brand of both available.I I'll toss them on just to see how it looks. I think I have an OSK set here as well as an ITM. And sorry to the OP for the thread diversion. I know it's related, but still. Sorry for the sidetrack.

Duh. It stands for "Rear"?

If you look closely, you can see that the steering rack retainer straps are not quite symmetric. I'm not sure we ever reached positive consensus about the correct orientation, but here's a couple threads that talk about it: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/48621-steering-rack-disassembly-and-refurb/?page=15 https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/65616-putting-in-a-replacement-l-28/?page=11 I don't think there is a left vs. right, but I do think there is a front vs. back.

Thanks for the details on the eccentrics. I was zooming in on your pic to see if I could figure out which eccentric you ended up with, but couldn't tell. Now I know why! Haha! If I would make my eccentrics, I would make them (just under) the full width of the gear web so I didn't have that issue. So, looking back at your .050 off pic again.... Are you sure you didn't use cam tower spacers or something? It just looks so different than what I found!