Captain Obvious

Haha! Ya don't say... There's some stuff in there that really doesn't look right to me. I'll work up a pic with some numbers on it so we can refer to hoses by name or by number. In the meantime, you really need to check your float bowl setting. Use a mirror and a flashlight and see if you can get a peek. Take off the fuel supply line and large hose between the air cleaner and engine side of the carb for more room if you need it. What's the hard-line to the turbo? Is that oil?

Haha!!! Nailed it!! First reply!!

Just took a quick look back, and I believe the Amp (TE) P/N is 825213-(color). 35-Pin "Junior Timer" series with 90 degree board mount. Price wasn't as bad as I was imagining... At quick glance at a few suppliers, Digikey was the cheapest and says they have them for a little over ten bucks with a min purchase qty 0f 176.

Haha! Yeah, but after me, Len, and Fastwoman install them, what's Len going to do with the other 9997? I recently rebuilt my FI harness with new connectors and while perusing catalogs, I saw the connector that mates with the ECU. I didn't quote it since I didn't need it, but maybe I'll look into the cost just for entertainment value.

Yeesh. You got full vacuum going to the CARB system. You got ported vacuum going to the intake manifolds which makes no sense. No idea what happens when that turbo spools up and pressurizes the intake. You got PCV coming off the top of the valve cover instead of the side of the block. I can tell you that fitting you've got uncapped (and the screw adjust that goes with it) was originally used to control idle speed. No idea what they're doing with it now though. The uncapped hole (I think it's the one you're talking about) looks to be a air bleed. Don't know why you would need one since you've already got such a thing built into the carb. What's the origin of that system you have? Is that a homegrown thing, or was it available as an aftermarket kit?

Superlen, Forgot something... What about the mechanicals? What's your plan on where is that going to come from? Are you thinking you'll harvest and re-use the case and connectors from original ECU's or are you thinking that you'll buy new connectors and fabricate a new enclosure? Have you priced the mechanical stuff? You won't be happy.

Superlen, Admirable task. My advice would be to start small and just get something that will drop in and run. Add all the other stuff like the ability to tune and use MAP for later. Don't include data logging. Skip the CAN bus and don't mess with the AAR or cold start. Run open loop with no O2 feedback, and set it up for the stock throttle body. Once you get to the point where you have one that drops in and works, then start adding features. And BTW... Personally, I would completely skip the "copy/save/email tunes back and forth between users" thing. Completely unnecessary complexity. I actually started a project like this myself, and it's fate has been the same as your project to date, stalled due to life. I know the OEM fuel injection system pretty well, and my car is running pretty well accordingly. I've unfortunately got other things on the car that are crying for more attention than a FI system that's working.

If I were doing a project like this, I would simply control the fuel pump with the new digital ECU. After all, the signal required to control the fuel pump is already available at the ECU connector. The original ECU doesn't do anything with that signal, but it's available.

I usually follow mine up with a resounding shout of "I did NOT just do that!!" :stupid: That's a pretty good one, BTW! Haha!! A philosophy that I quote often as well.

Someone want to give this guy a call and find out just how many decimal points he slipped? Sounds like it might be a nice car, but the price is clearly screwy! rare 1970 240z He says it "won't last long". I suspect at $300K, it will last longer than forever...

Corroded battery cable(s). Clean the connections between the lugs and the posts?

Called it!! :laugh: Welcome back and good luck with the project.

Awesome!! Hard to believe that your fuel rail is picking up enough heat to boil the fuel, but can't contest the results of getting rid of it!

I've got a 77 280 and I'm planning the mounting of some relays for various improvements to the electricals, but I haven't yet decided where to physically mount the relays. Problem is that my car doesn't have A/C, but I would like to add it someday, so I don't want to mount anything in a location that would be taken by an A/C component, so... I'm looking for some good engine bay pics of a 77 with A/C that is mostly stock. I'm primarily interested in the passenger side of the engine bay and/or the firewall on the same side since that's where I think I want mount my relay block. Anyone help me out with some pics?

First post? Been a member for over a year, and this thread is the one that stepped you out of the shadows? Pssssst.... Enjoy the oil pan!

I've had similar troubles getting the float levels correct on round tops, and I don't have an answer either. I understand how the float and the valve work. There's no rocket science there and the geometry is simple. And that simplicity is what makes it so frustrating. Too low, adjust. Still too low, adjust more, and now overflowing out the vent nipple. After much fiddling, I got my fuel levels within a mm or two (low) and called it a day. I have since switched to a FI car so I haven't looked back to analyze the situation more to figure out what was really really going on. I'm not sure how much of a difference 5mm would make, but there are some people who say CV carbs are very sensitive to fuel level in the nozzle area and others who say they are very fault tolerant to float levels. I'm no expert on the topic, but physics dictates that it would take more energy to lift the fuel up out of the bowl and into the stream the farther it had to lift it. Everyone seems to agree that you would run leaner the lower the level, but the magnitude of the impact is up for debate. If you're running so low that you suck air at high G turns, then that's a different issue. The flat tops have about 50% more bowl volume than the round tops. Coincidence?

And BTW, in your application, both the sight glass and the plug covering the fuel screen are on the side of the carb that is sandwiched between the carb and the distributor. That's why I was saying earlier that you might not be able to even get to that side with the carb installed the way you have it mounted.

I'm not sure how you got the car to run with the bottom of the carb off, but whatever... Sounds like the filter screen is passing fuel and the float and valve are working. Doesn't tell you much about the level of fuel in the bowl when the float is in control though. Here's a pic that should answer your questions: As for the sight glass, the target level moved depending on the year, but since you're so far off the flight line, I would set them right at the center of the window and see what happens:

Did you look for the sight glass on the float bowl and the filter screen on the fuel inlet? The sight glass could help diagnose a fuel delivery issue, and if confirmed, the filter screen could be the cause.

Mike, I've got the bias you described. On my 5 speed, the return force away from 5/R is greater than the return force away from 1/2. It's not enough to prevent me from clipping reverse, but I do have that bias.

There is no fuel outlet on the stock carb. There is, however, a small screen fuel filter as the last line of defense against dirt as fuel enters the carb. With your sideways mount, it's on the side of the carb over by the distributor. If you had crud in the line, that filter is probably plugged. There is also a sight glass window into the float bowl that is used to verify the bowl has the correct amount of fuel in it. Now I don't know if you'll be able to get a view of it mounted that way, but it's worth a try. What an odd setup you've got there... If you're planning to continue to run that system, my advice would be to read, read, and read some more. The number of people who believe in the flat tops are few, and a turbocharged setup using just one of them???? You better learn to work on it yourself!!!

Awesome. So you should be all set until your door locks start acting up. :laugh:

That's the same car as the Craigslist ad I posted above. They drug the car out of the weeds and took some pictures in the open. It doesn't look any better in the light of day....

You could have pulled the spherical post out instead of cutting the washer. Put some Loctite on it when you put it back together, and it should hold. The REAL elegant solution would be to make a new stud with a larger ball on the end... That would be the most time consuming alternative! Here's a thread with some other related pics:

Haha! Yes they are! It would sure be sturdy and fuel resistant!! As mentioned above, one of the things that makes the Nitrophyl work is the fact that if done correctly, it skins over on the outside to produce a protective and non absorptive shell. "NITROPHYL material is transformed from a solid material to a hard, cellular structure by a two-step molding process. The outside layers, which are in contact with the hot surfaces of the cavity, produce a hard, smooth outer surface. The inside acquires a closed-cell structure. This distinctly different shell or "skin" protects the cell structure and adds to the mechanical strength of the part. NITROPHYL floats are also abrasion-resistant and capable of reproducing cavity details with sharp resolution in a wide range of sizes." NITROPHYL Design Guide I'm no plastics guy and I don't know if Rogers Corp sells the Nitrophyl compound in a resinous form, but it does appear they currently hold the trademark on the Nitrophyl name. I didn't look deeply enough to determine if they want to make their money selling resin or selling floats, (or both). I also didn't dig to see if there were other "generic" compounds of foamed NBR available from other sources or if Rogers Corp had a stranglehold on the technology.