Captain Obvious

I've heard people say that about you. Oh wait... That's not true at all.

Wait.... If this pic was taken before the crank was rotated to TDC, then there is nothing to be gleaned from it with regard to valve timing. Who cares where the cam timing marks are if the engine isn't at TDC?

Some questions... At the end of your previous thread, you verified the float bowl levesls with the clear tube wet-set method. 21 and 19mm, right? If so, that should be fine. Was there fuel in the return line back to the red jug? If so, then the pump is providing more than the carbs will take (at idle at least). But here's the rub... These engines really don't need a lot of fuel to idle. In fact, if you fill your bowl up to spec level and start the car with the fuel line completely disconnected, your car should idle for over 30 seconds before you suck the bowls dry. I'm thinking that you have enough fuel to the carbs at idle, but maybe not while driving. So... Couple things to look at. First, take it out for a drive and get it to die. When it dies, turn off the key and go out to the engine and pull the tube off the bottom of your float bowl. See how much fuel comes out. If you sucked the bowl down, you won't get much out. If you DID suck the bowl down, then it's a fuel delivery issue. Have you checked the little screen filters inside the banjo bolts at the carbs? If they're clogged, the return line back to the jug will look full, but the carbs won't be getting fuel.

And if that doesn't work, you might be able to get the piece out with a drill like this:

Kats, Here's some pics showing what I would try: You're starting with something like this. This is a different carb, but the situation is the same: Tap some threads inside the hole. You may have to drill it a little first to the appropriate pilot hole for the tap. This is an English 4-40 tap, which is close in size to M3 x 0.6: Then I made a little puller adapter to concentrate the force in the perpendicular direction to pull the brass slug out of the carb body: Put it over the brass slug and carefully run the screw in: If everything goes according to plan, it should jack the brass remnant out like this: If it doesn't come out easily, maybe try a little heat from a small torch:

Gotcha. Yup, the original seals probably came with the metal retainer ring already installed, and for that reason, they didn't call them out on the diagram. They were considered part of the seal.

Next time it dies, you could just pull the coil wire out of the distributor cap and lay it close to one of the nuts on the strut tower. Crank the motor and see if you have healthy looking spark.

Well the potential pinging concern due to the chamber design is a second order concept beyond my pay grade. I can't add anything credible to that. But yeah, there are all kinds of numbers on the internets for the compression ratio and chamber volumes, etc. The number I'm using for E88b (late) is 47.8cc. And that came from the internets somewhere as I did not measure that myself. But... it does result in a CR close to what is listed in the 1974 FSM. The FSM says 8.8:1 and when I run the numbers, I get 8.86 (with flat top pistons that do NOT crest above the deck). If I crest the pistons .020 above deck, I get a CR of 9.3:1. Point is... I'm skeptical about the L26 pistons cresting above the deck.

I believe your assessment is correct. You should have power to that "S" terminal in the START position. Have you tried wiggling the key around while you have the meter on that terminal? I mean, even if it's just intermittent, it needs to be replaced, but maybe you could confirm that there is connection there sometimes.

If Part No.4 is a metal ring (no rubber) that retains Part No.5 (dust seal), then where / what is the hydraulic seal that holds the brake fluid in? I've never messed with that caliper, but looking at the drawing it looks to me like the hydraulic seal is Part No.4. Which would then beg the question... What would hold ithe dust seal on?

Well the carb work sounds like it turned out well. But the dying thing is certainly a pain. So what kind of ignition system are you running? Normal points and coil kinda stuff?

Hi Kats, If I were trying to get that piece out, I think would use a small tap to thread the inside of the brass piece. Then once there were threads inside, I would use a screw as a handle and try to pull it out. I would also make a small arbor that I would put between the screw and the carb body. I have made similar adapter arbors in the past and I will take a picture tomorrow of something similar. Also, I've messed with other similar fittings on the carbs and they are usually very tight, I would use heat before I tried to pull it. Small butane torch. And if all that fails, I would use progressively larger drill bits and drill out the brass until I could pick out the small pieces.

I'm no engine expert, but the numbers I have here says your original E88 should result in about 8.86:1 CR, and a P79 shaved .080 should be about 9.12:1. Not much change, and not a lot of bang for the buck. The issue is that the P79 starts with a significantly larger chamber volume (than the E88), and I would presume they can get away with that because the P79 is designed to run with pistons that crest above the block deck height. I'm thinking you would get a lot more CR increase by shaving your E88 head. But remember... I'm just some guy on the internet that has a calculator and types a lot.

For Kats? Sure. I'm volunteering. I'd make it!

Hi Kats, The master cylinder caps are NABCO, but I'm thinking you want the Tokico instead? Unfortunate about breaking off the carb vacuum nipple. If you ever decide to go through the trouble to pull the remaining piece out of the carb body, it doesn't look too difficult to make a replacement.

Man. I feel for ya. I think we've all had days like that.

Exactly. I find the wet-set to be much easier and way more accurate. So for the wet-set - If you're not comfortable with a sharpie line on the bowl, then sure... Use a piece of tape. Sharpie does wipe right off with carb cleaner though. As for getting a straight on-view, maybe use a mirror? I may be in the minority, but I don't think the measurement down to the fraction of a mm has that much of an impact. Which leads me to the last question about accounting for the different float levels needed for the front & rear carbs? I guess, if they're already different and close, I'd let them alone, but I think 20mm +/- 2mm will work. The 70-71 carbs all used 20mm. It wasn't until 72 that they started messing around with the levels like that. To me, it seems like some Nissan engineer was looking to make a name for himself and thought it would be a good idea to dive into the minutia due to engine tilt. "Boy... My 70 and 71 just always seems to run different between the front and rear carbs. I bet it's because of engine tilt." Said no-one ever.

i know there has been previous description of the wet-set method, but I don't have time to hunt now. But here's a couple pics that should make the process clear. This was done with the bowl off the car, but it can be done just as easily with the carb and bowl in-situ. Clear tube off the nipple at the bottom of the bowl: I find it helpful to put a sharpie line on the bowl to help with accuracy. You can see the fuel level in the tube right at the 20mm line:

It's really hard to gauge paint in pics like that, but it looks like there is too much orange peel, and it looks "deeper". Like base/clear instead of the original single stage. Hard to judge. And the rear tail light panel is the wrong color. Way too light. I'm thinking they painted that panel maybe at the same time they painted the rest of the car? Wait... Were the 2+2 rear tail light panels a different color than the coupes? Don't get me wrong. It's a beautiful car. I'm just curious what "all original" means these days.

Woof. Yeah, it looks like someone screwed up your nozzle. I've got a couple nozzles here and I'll take some measurements next chance I get unless someone beats me to it.

OK, so another data point that lines up. So unless someone else comes up with something better, I'm going with what we got. @SteveE, It was your pics that turned the corner for me. I had some 70 calipers here that were "0" year and a 78 pair that were "8", but I just couldn't believe it was that simple. Then when you posted your pics of your 8/72 build calipers that were all "2", it seemed that it WAS that simple. Thanks again!

Excellent! Glad it's running! And I wouldn't bother with trying to use a micrometer. I would just go to the wet-set method with a piece of clear tubing. It's the only way to be sure.

Actually I think that's exactly what Zed Head was talking about. Just like what kickstand suggested:

Are you thinking it's original paint? Hard to tell from a couple pics, but it looks like a tape line on the fenders up in the engine compartment. Like they taped it and sprayed it with the hood closed? Or is that just a trick of the light? And at quick glance, the interior isn't all original. Shift knob, center console lid, shift boot, E-brake boots. Those are all aftermarket adds.

@SpeedRoo and @inline6, Does the suggested decode breakdown comply with what you have in your possession?