Dershum

INST3D I was able to pull down one of the .zip files and load it into Repetier. It looks like the model mostly translated, but the A pillars seem to be missing from the model. Check it out: I'm not so worried about the "not manifold" warnings it likes to throw, but I'm not sure how much success I'd have without the A pillars. I think I might try loading it into something like meshmixer or similar to see if I can split it into logical pieces - printing the whole thing as-is wouldn't work very well. I want to see if I can get a piece of it at least printed to see how it comes out! I'll let you know how it goes

Reminds me of the time I went to change the air filter on my mom's circa 1990 chevy cavalier and found that the mice had been storing dog food in it.

I know this is totally dragging a thread up from the dead - but did you ever make any further progress on this? Also, what would the changes be of getting some .STL exports of the 3D model? I'm starting in on the 3D printing craze, and I'd love to see if I could print pieces of this model!

I spent about $2,500 on everything - but that was the body on a rotisserie, doors, hood, hatch, a ton of misc parts, plus epoxy primer on everything. He used a combination of media, mostly baking soda, but he used some other medias depending on what needed stripping. A little pricey, but I feel like I really got a great result when he was done.

I know this is a bit of an old reply - but be REALLY careful with those media-stripper discs and angle grinders. They have a tendency to "catch" on any exposed edge, and will rip the angle grinder right out of your hands. Flying running angle grinder with shattering media disc on it is a great way to get a no-expense-paid trip to the emergency room.

RockAuto has Moog u joints for 11.78 each for the '73. Good place to get parts as long as you know exactly what you're looking for. More Information for MOOG/PRECISION 391

Damn...I wish everything on my Z was as straight as in those renders Beautiful work!

I know when the sent me the wrong inner tie rods, I was able to send them back and they sent me a pre-paid shipping label. As for all the feedback, it's about what I would expect...make sure the part listed is right, but you never know until you get it.

Well, yes...I guess my question was, when it comes to ordering parts from RockAuto, has anyone had experiences where the parts were wrong or didn't fit...particularly for the 240z? For example, I ordered outer tie rods from them a couple years back, and one was completely wrong. I re-ordered from a different mfr (still from RockAuto) and it was still the wrong part, so I gave up and got it elsewhere.

So I'm going down my list of various items that I need to purchase now or eventually for my restoration. I went through the usual suspects (MSA, ZCarSource, etc), and then I went digging on RockAuto. I've bought small bits from them over the past year or so, and for the most part they're pretty good, but when it comes to more important functional pieces (see below) I'm wondering what other's experiences are with ordering their parts. Particularly, I'm looking at the stuff like Reman loaded brake calipers: More Information for CENTRIC 14242012 More Information for RAYBESTOS RC3028 Reman master brake cylinder More Information for CENTRIC 13042601 More Information for DORMAN M96583 Reman distributor Product Detail I'm trying to get a general sense as to if these parts are well-fitting parts, or if they're really a "you get what you pay for" sort of deal...at least when compared to pricing at Black Dragon, MSA, ZCarSource, etc. Thoughts? Thanks guys!

I think the WD-40 and a sharp rap with a hammer were the trick. Also I got a smaller pry-bar which fit in there better and I was able to rock it back and forth a bit so I could get a better grip with some vice grips. All out now...thanks guys!

I gave a very similar method a try on the bottom clip (you can see where it's been banged up a bit). I'll give it another go, but that method didn't show much success.

Before media blast/epoxy primer, I tried to get the ebrake clips off but had no luck...figured I'd wait until it was blasted and on a rotisserie to pull them out. Well, that's all done and still no luck. I just can't seem to get enough of a grip on them or any sort of pivot point on a prying implement to get them out. I'm hoping that someone can give me some tips on how to get these guys out. Thanks!

Well, I can tell you from experience that repairing the far-back part of the rail (in your second pic) is a pain and depends largely on how much rust is behind that panel. I didn't have barely any of mine left, so it took quite a bit of work. And I'll guarantee that if the other side looks good from the outside, it's still pretty bad in behind. I'll also (nearly) guarantee that the plate directly above/around the mounting point for the front cross-member is rusted pretty well to match. As for the front sway bar mounting point (the first pic) Bad Dog sells a lovely set of braces that can be welded over that area to brace it, so if you can repair the piece under it, then you can brace over it to help your repair. How does the engine-side of the frame rail look?

Well I got the firewall patched, and I'm pretty pleased with the result. I've also got the fully assembled dimensions of that particular battery tie-down from Billet Specialties, so I'm going to make a cardboard box to match those dimensions, then see where that leads me in terms of the fender patch panel. zKars, I spent about 2 hours searching around and reading various threads trying to find the one you're referring to, but wasn't able to find it. Any thoughts as to the title or some particular search terms that might help me find it? Thanks!