Shakey

I have a '72 with a very rough ride. It just does not make for a very pleasent drive, especially for the wife, when the car seems to take every bump as a major parking lot speed bump. All bushings had been replaced with a Susp. Tech. urethane kit and Tokico springs/shocks/struts within the last few years. Tires are Goodrich 14" T/A's. What first could be done (or at least looked at) to try and soften the stiff ride?

Need some help on zeroing in on an electrical problem. When turned on all the exterior lights are working except the running lights on the rear panel. Headlights (high and low), turn signals, side lights and the brake lights all work except the rear lights at night. The dash lights also do not work but the turn signal bulbs flash when I move the turn signal lever for a rt. or left turn. Also the blue indicator dash light for the bright lights works. All the fuses are OK. Any suggestion where I may look first? Both of these problems started at the same time. Thanks.

Dave, I have an old stalk I will practice on first. Thanks for the help. Tom

Dave, Thanks for the reply. Is there suppose to be two speeds with this new motor install? and can you give anymore detail into how to clean the contacts? Do you need to take the whole stalk off the steering column or does the end switch/knob come off to get at the contacts? Tom

I have just finished the wiper motor switch from Dave's write-up. Found it to be very easy and instructions are complete. Just a couple of questions about installing into a '72. 1. There is a two speed setting on the wiper switch, slow and fast. Does this upgrade suppose to provide both speeds? 2. Although the wipers function 100% better, there seems to be a faulty switch. As I switch the wipers on I need to gently rock the switch knob a little to get the wipers to stay on. I hear the relay clicking multiple times until I get the switch to a position that the wipers stay on by thenselves. If this is the problem has anyone repaired the switch at the end of the staulk? Or do I need to replace the whole staulk? Thanks, Tom

Thanks for everyones replys

The new nuts do have an inside ring that I suppose is there to be staked over aginst the flat sides of the hub axle, but it seems that the nuts have been tightened past the flat area, preventing the two sides of the ring to be flattened. I had read that these new Nissan nuts were suppose to be of a lock-nut type, but they seemed to go on fairly easily and they also have the outer ring available to be staked.

First off I have a '72. I just finished replacing the rear wheel bearings, both sides and two bearings per side. Having also replaced the large inside nuts with new OEM nuts and torqued to the recommended 200 lbs. it's just a little disconcerning that if one of these nuts works loose the whole wheel and hub seperates from the car. :surprised The bearings had been replaced before, by a PO, so the original peened nuts had been removed and a newer nuts used. This is how I found it before replacing with the current bearings and nuts. Should I be concerned about the current set-up or am i missing something? Seems like a castle nut with a cotter pin would be more appropiate to keep the whole assembly from seperating. Does anyone ever check to see if the nuts are still torqued?

Any thoughts?

Have replaced the rear brake cylinders on my "72. Is there any difference in the way to bleed the rear lines since the cylinders are empty of brake fluid? Do I also need to bleed the front lines since they were not desturbed? And should I adjust the parking brake before or after I bleed the brakes? Thanks.

Had replaced my original radio with a nice period looking Kenwood KRC-2007. Fits nicely and had no trouble wiring it up. This was a few years ago and bought it from a local electronics store. Well it's no longer working and would like to replace it with the same model. I can not find any source for a new one. Locally, ebay and the internet has all come up short. Any suggestions where I could purchase one from?

I'm sure the calipers were rebuilt since I needed to give them my old ones as a core. They were purchased from Advance Auto.

No shake at all, in fact I had the rotors turned recently. Could it be a stuck rotor? Is there some type of proportioning device that give equal pressure to all 4 brakes that may be out of balance?

Have been concentrating on improving my brakes and have a slight problem. I have a '72 and did the Toyota front caliper brake switch a few years ago and never really found the switch to improve all that much. Within the last month have switched to stainless steel brake lines and changed out the brake vac. Both sets of parts came from MSA. I have bleed the brake lines two times since with Dot 4 brake fluid. The rears are stock. Now the problem is that before the master vac switch I had only moderate brakes and now although the braking is improved, when I apply the brakes I have the front right tire locking up and the car pulls to the right. Other three tires don't lock up. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Tried to order the chromed plastic wheel hub covers from MSA but they informed me that although they still show them in their catalog they are out of stock and may never get them in. The ones I got have the chrome plateing coming off and look pretty bad. They are the ones that screw in with 4 screws. Any one know any other source? Thanks.