Shakey

I have a '72 with a very rough ride. It just does not make for a very pleasent drive, especially for the wife, when the car seems to take every bump as a major parking lot speed bump. All bushings had been replaced with a Susp. Tech. urethane kit and Tokico springs/shocks/struts within the last few years. Tires are Goodrich 14" T/A's. What first could be done (or at least looked at) to try and soften the stiff ride?

Need some help on zeroing in on an electrical problem. When turned on all the exterior lights are working except the running lights on the rear panel. Headlights (high and low), turn signals, side lights and the brake lights all work except the rear lights at night. The dash lights also do not work but the turn signal bulbs flash when I move the turn signal lever for a rt. or left turn. Also the blue indicator dash light for the bright lights works. All the fuses are OK. Any suggestion where I may look first? Both of these problems started at the same time. Thanks.

Dave, I have an old stalk I will practice on first. Thanks for the help. Tom

Dave, Thanks for the reply. Is there suppose to be two speeds with this new motor install? and can you give anymore detail into how to clean the contacts? Do you need to take the whole stalk off the steering column or does the end switch/knob come off to get at the contacts? Tom

I have just finished the wiper motor switch from Dave's write-up. Found it to be very easy and instructions are complete. Just a couple of questions about installing into a '72. 1. There is a two speed setting on the wiper switch, slow and fast. Does this upgrade suppose to provide both speeds? 2. Although the wipers function 100% better, there seems to be a faulty switch. As I switch the wipers on I need to gently rock the switch knob a little to get the wipers to stay on. I hear the relay clicking multiple times until I get the switch to a position that the wipers stay on by thenselves. If this is the problem has anyone repaired the switch at the end of the staulk? Or do I need to replace the whole staulk? Thanks, Tom

Thanks for everyones replys

The new nuts do have an inside ring that I suppose is there to be staked over aginst the flat sides of the hub axle, but it seems that the nuts have been tightened past the flat area, preventing the two sides of the ring to be flattened. I had read that these new Nissan nuts were suppose to be of a lock-nut type, but they seemed to go on fairly easily and they also have the outer ring available to be staked.

First off I have a '72. I just finished replacing the rear wheel bearings, both sides and two bearings per side. Having also replaced the large inside nuts with new OEM nuts and torqued to the recommended 200 lbs. it's just a little disconcerning that if one of these nuts works loose the whole wheel and hub seperates from the car. :surprised The bearings had been replaced before, by a PO, so the original peened nuts had been removed and a newer nuts used. This is how I found it before replacing with the current bearings and nuts. Should I be concerned about the current set-up or am i missing something? Seems like a castle nut with a cotter pin would be more appropiate to keep the whole assembly from seperating. Does anyone ever check to see if the nuts are still torqued?

Any thoughts?

Have replaced the rear brake cylinders on my "72. Is there any difference in the way to bleed the rear lines since the cylinders are empty of brake fluid? Do I also need to bleed the front lines since they were not desturbed? And should I adjust the parking brake before or after I bleed the brakes? Thanks.

Had replaced my original radio with a nice period looking Kenwood KRC-2007. Fits nicely and had no trouble wiring it up. This was a few years ago and bought it from a local electronics store. Well it's no longer working and would like to replace it with the same model. I can not find any source for a new one. Locally, ebay and the internet has all come up short. Any suggestions where I could purchase one from?

I'm sure the calipers were rebuilt since I needed to give them my old ones as a core. They were purchased from Advance Auto.

No shake at all, in fact I had the rotors turned recently. Could it be a stuck rotor? Is there some type of proportioning device that give equal pressure to all 4 brakes that may be out of balance?

Have been concentrating on improving my brakes and have a slight problem. I have a '72 and did the Toyota front caliper brake switch a few years ago and never really found the switch to improve all that much. Within the last month have switched to stainless steel brake lines and changed out the brake vac. Both sets of parts came from MSA. I have bleed the brake lines two times since with Dot 4 brake fluid. The rears are stock. Now the problem is that before the master vac switch I had only moderate brakes and now although the braking is improved, when I apply the brakes I have the front right tire locking up and the car pulls to the right. Other three tires don't lock up. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Tried to order the chromed plastic wheel hub covers from MSA but they informed me that although they still show them in their catalog they are out of stock and may never get them in. The ones I got have the chrome plateing coming off and look pretty bad. They are the ones that screw in with 4 screws. Any one know any other source? Thanks.

Seems that ever since I switched the front brakes of my '72 to the Toyota caliper upgrade (with the bleed valves above the brake fluid inlet) I have to push very hard on the brake pedal to stop. During this time I have also replaced the brake fluid two times, switched to S.S. brake lines, have removed the brake master cylinder and master vac (during a engine switch) and bleed the lines without a problem. I have a stiff brake pedal after bleeding but when I drive the car I need to push strongly on the pedal to get the car to stop. Never have to pump the pedal and the pedal never comes close to the floor. Seems most people say that after the Toyota switch thier stopping power greatly improves. In my case it has gotten to be dangerous. Any one with a similar problem that was solved?

I am running the stock ECU and only showing 4 lbs. Maybe the Autometer gauge is not giving me an accurate reading and by adding the controller I may be boosting beyond the capable limit (if my true boost is an accurate stock 8 lbs.) At this time I don't want to add an IC but just add a few lbs. of boost. So to my original question is how accurate are these gauges in determining boost? Are there other options to get accurate readings? Thanks, Steve, for the suggeestion of replacing the nylon tubing with metal. I may do that if no other ideas come up.

Having switched a turbo into my '72 I also put into the dash an after market boost guage. I am getting a reading of 4 off the guage while heavy acceleration. About to add a manual boost controller to get the boost up to about 8-9. Can I really trust the guage to give me an accurate reading throgh the small vac tube attached from the guage to the engine? Seems I will be putting alot of trust in a 50 cent piece of tubing. Thanks

Had removed one of the taillight bulb sockets from the socket holder and removed the bulb. The bulb was lite when I took it out. When I replaced the bulb I had turned it 180 degrees and it lite up twice as bright as it was originally. Because of the two offset pins on the side of the bulb it will only go in one way, the least bright way. Why brighter one way than the other? Do I need new bulbs? Thanks.

On the small panel above the fuses there are three small bulbs that lite the the instraments. One is for the seat belts, one for the rear defroster and a third for either the hand brake or reverse gear(?). There were no bulbs in my 72 when I bought it and the regular dash bulbs are too large in diameter to fit. Can someone tell me what sizes they are and if they are readily available at auto stores? Thanks.

Is there a replacement socket? I have tried to clean the contact points but still have problems with some.

Exchanged the original dash bulbs with new ones. Works great except that when I reattached the lightbulb sockets into the gauge housing several of them just would light up with out twisting or turning the socket. I have all of them lighting up now, when I turn on the light switch, but if I drive over a rough road a couple of them (speedometer and tach) go out. I then need to try and twist the socket till it works, but I will have the same problem next time I drive. Are there any replacement sockets available to replace the current ones or is there any suggestion using my curent ones? Thanks.

Chicago Z Car Club (WCZC) will be spending the day in Madison, Wisconsin on Saturday July 7th. We will start with a tour of the Botanical Gardens and then on to the Farmers market that is around the State Capital. At noon we will meet at the entrance of Monona Terrace for a spirited country drive to Spring Green for lunch and a tour of Taliesin, home and studio of Frank Lloyd Wright. Times and directions are available at our web site at www.windycityzclub.com[/url or email me at millerfamily@wi.rr.com.

Looking to freshen up the interior of my 240 and would like any suggestions of companies that sell quality parts, original or reproductions. Am looking to replace black door coverings, hard cardboard kick panels to the right (passenger) and left (driver) feet area, metal threshold under the doors, and the curved vinyl between the doors and the seats. Thanks for the help. Tom

Todd, My mistake but the event is on Sunday, Sept. 10. Delafield is just off I-94 and just west of Waukesha. From your area take I-43 to Hwy. 83 North to I-94 and then west a couple of miles. I don't have a time as of yet but you could call Safro Toyota in Brookfield for more info. Tom