siteunseen

When I rebuilt my motor I decided to delete "potential" problems. I'm a Murphy's Law believer and over my lifetime that has proved beneficial for me at least. You know what us poor people say "more money, more problems". More things that can fail. Break, leak etc. so if I don't need it it gets gone. It's hot down here plus my 240 lives in a warm garage so after reading a lot of threads I decided to do away with the extra heat. The thermostats go bad and the coolant flows through the carbs all the time, at least on the set-ups I have owned. I talked to Bruce at Ztherapy beforehand and he said just use NPT brass plugs in the soft aluminum. They would make their own threads, no need to tap the holes. I did the thermostat housing and the rear carb's intake. I left the pipe in between the intakes though. That rascal wouldn't budge when I tried to turn it out and I didn't force it so it still looks good and isn't all bent up. I plugged the red circles and removed the hardline behind the cylinder head. My car runs great and my carbs get cold to the touch in the winter, they are cool to the touch even in the middle of summer. I'm now race car mechanic but I'm very familiar with nitrous and know the cooler the fuel the better a motor will preform. Like I said it hot down here.

A bunch of us run this 75/90... https://www.redlineoil.com/mt-90-75w90-gl-4-gear-oil

He could have gasket issue from the pump to the head causing a small amount of motor oil leakage but if the OE pumps have oil in them I learned something new today. Thank you 26thZ.

We all know the "pain" working on these old cars. Pain in the arse, pain in the hands. I said I'd get a manicure after building the last motor but guess what? I lied. A peticure would be more cost wise for me. Chris they say that THC is helpful for pain but I would'nt know. It's illegal down here.

I'd say "their" expectations were way off! Have a bottle of wine and do the Yelp review.

I would try a long steep road to see if it starts to cut out. You can always turn around and get back down. I went ahead and replaced the original on the last 240 I bought, don't like having car trouble on the side of the road. If it runs low of fuel going uphill the front carb will dry up first and then you're driving a 3 cylinder.

When you get ready to do the rear tail lights you can buy repros from futofab.com, that's what I did on my second 240, or use @Dr. 240Z method as it worked out great on the first one. Money was tight! A lot of good ideas in his thread...

This holds my phone perfect but honestly, buy a television. Edit: smart television!

I have an n42 block and n42 cylinder head I beat the hell out of occasionally. The harder I run the cooler it seems to run. I do have a newer 3 row radiator, full shroud off a ZX and a belly pan so all the air pulls through the front opening. If I shut it down immediately it will get pretty hot but I always let it idle for a minute or 2.

No charge I imagine. He works on tips, like a mohel.

I had the same thing happen! That's when it broke loose though and the car came back down. I now have a Bernzomatic torch head that works with those cheap green propane camping bottles. They get hot enough for my needs.

I used a pipe wrench and my floor jack to get mine loose. Get the pipe wrench griped on and then the floor jack under the handle to push up, counter clockwise.

@AZDatsun I would try a blast with my air compressor and air gun backwards towards the fuel tank. The closest you could get to the tank from the engine bay. Maybe below the passenger's side strut tower before the fuel filter? Take the gas cap off 1st though. When my 240 would quit from lack of fuel I'd blow in the INPUT hose connected to the filter until I could hear bubbling in the tank. Then go like hell until it quit again. I finally dropped the tank and cleaned the crud out and coated it with Red-Kote. Never had to try on my 280 so good luck. here's a pic of the pickup in a '77. The crud at the bottom appears to be rust. It does not scrap off with a stick.Since gas floats on water. Rust will occur on the bottom of the tank first as well as in the air space above the gas where condensation occurs.The larger upper tube is the send to the engine and the lower is the return. above provided by.. http://240260280.com/legacy/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm

Mine has 2208J. So that matches the build date of 02/72. '72 February 8th but what does the "J" stand for? Is it just a batch symbol possibly?

Correct me please but I'm almost positive if you touch the two sender wires together the gauge will peg on FULL. (Could be EMPTY)???? Its been a few years. Those nail head connectors are a PITA. I put female spade connectors on mine and covered them with liquid electrical tape.

I was just looking at mine, unhooking trickle charger, and from a recent thread was curious on left and right. My 2 Zs have the angled wiper arm on the driver's side, straighter one on the passenger's. They're both 18" blades.

Nice car. I have a '72 with original paint, interior etc. I rebuilt the motor a put a 5 speed transmission in. My classic car insurance got out of the business so now I have better than they were Hagertys. I sent them a ton of pictures and got an agreed upon value of $25,000. I need to get it appraised asap but for now I'm okay with the value. I never drive it, darn it. It has a nice spot inside my garage. Welcome to the forum.

The lighting makes a huge difference to me. Before sunrise, after sundown they look redder.

That looks like a lot of work, replacing all of them. I guess for a complete restoration?

see what i did here... EDIT, tres equis guy.

Click your username up top right side corner. drops down to account settings, click that... That will go to this page that shows "signature"... Click that and then go to another page, change your signature and click "SAVE". done

May need to adjust the rear float Oliver.

That looks like soot more than grease to me. Like the black powdery grime off a belt, maybe the a/c and alternator belts? I used Murphy's Oil Soap on mine for the lighter stuff like your picture. It worked good for me FYI. " It is also commonly used to clean black-powder weapons after use, since the lack of petroleum-based oil and the presence of vegetable oil lessens the amount of sludge that is created when cleaning black powder residues from weapons. It has also been found to efficiently remove the residue that builds up on automobile wheels and hubcaps from the disc brakes." Wikipedia info https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Murphy_Oil_Soap

Personally I used that purple/red looking Lucas tacky right out of my grease gun. Then even out with my finger. Ran it in and out numerous times to get rid of any surplus. No leaks, no problems thus far (about 4 years now).