siteunseen

Yes you do want to mess up this ramp form. It should look like a speed bump not a ramp. Are there speed bumps in Panama? This is what you want This is what you have

Full flowing fuel is the needle out all the way. The closer the tang to the float, the longer the needle=more fuel. Shortening the needle puts the plunger inside the fuel supply hole= less fuel. So, the closer the tang is to the float the longer the needle can extend. More fuel. The farther away the tang is, like in your photo above, the less the needle can extend. Less fuel.

Okay I apologize but I'm confused now. I've got one downstairs. Give me a minute...

I bought new stuff for my 40 plus year old car all off amazon.com. It was around $200 for the booster and masters then I did the whole system, rear drums and shoes, and cylinders, front rotors and pads, then stainless steel short lines to the front and rear I found on ebay. You need good brakes. Edit, without looking at my receipts I'd say I spent $500 total Here's a common problem with that whooshing sound your hearing.

Here's some links on installing I remember reading when I wanted to put some I had on my 240. https://www.google.com/search?q=setting+up+webers+classiczcars.com+site:www.classiczcars.com&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwilm_yiit7oAhXng-AKHW1OC8EQrQIoBDAAegQIBhAP&biw=1280&bih=606 This guy wrote up an all around description.

I used a gallon paint can stir stick under the float mounting bracket. They fit good and are soft wood. Slide one under there and push down the tang with your finger. When it looks like this you should be very close. Good luck.

I used small need nosed pliers on the sides of the tang. I'll try and get a picture when I get home. About an hour. Stay "tuned".

I must admit the throwback to my 20 years ago self was mainly alcohol. The meanings of my "favorite" songs back then are silly to me know. My funeral song list just changed.

I'm going to get my sandblasting hood!

Those look great and I'm jealous as hell! Datsun Spirits are red if I remember right?

I know we all have way different taste in music but I've found music to be the best way for me to stay inside without getting bored. I'm listening to stuff I haven't heard in 20 years. Thank goodness I've saved my old hard drives. My old stereo isn't doing so well though, covered with dust and over heated. Oh well, I need to upgrade.

Tom T. Hall sang it best...(except squirrels).

Negative for me. I just smoked my main amp! No more "long ago" music tonight. I thought I smelt something so I can't have the boogie woogie flu. There's your test.

Finally from out of the shadows it's Barack! "Guess whose back?"

Starts off with a 240 though but you'll get the main point.

If your as bored as I am here's a good read. Check out the attachment too, CCV Bible.

I have mine done similar to the '78s so I can't say. I only see those valve cover filters on 240s but I have read about closing all that up and using the small filter.

It'll run but lumpy like when you remove the oil filler cap while running. Yes, vacuum leak.

Here's the recall explaining it somewhat. Wick Hubble's book explains in depth, page 194. https://howtune.com/recalls/nissan/280z/1977/

Here's the latest routing too. 1978 changed to this...

I've always considered this little gap as a way to connect the valvetrain and the crankcase. I got worried about blowing out the rear main when I first started fooling with a rebuild and removing stuff. We don't do the smog test here. The yellow circle in this google image. That's one without the front cover. The head hangs over too so it's an open path from the valve cover to the oil pan, in my mind.

Agree with what was said above. That book will walk you completely through tear down then rebuild yourself. There's a few things you have to take to a machine shop and get done but I got out cheap there, about $200 if I remember right. Take tons of pictures and write everything down you may not be sure about. A roll of cheap painters tape was a big help for me on the connections, wiring and plug-ins. You can do both sides with a piece of tape then add 1 & 1 or A & A. Get a box of quart size zip-locs for all the nuts and bolts then write what it is on a piece of paper then drop it inside the bag. I wrote on the outside with a Sharpie, bad idea as it smeared off. A gallon of lacquer thinner and some small brass wire brushes for cleaning from your local hardware store is about as cheap as you'll find. Cheap spray on oven cleaning foam also works good. It's like $.99 at walmart. A few 5 gallon buckets will be useful too. All 6 pistons fit perfect in the bottom for me, poured about 2 inches of lacquer thinner in there and they came out like new. Read, read and read. You'll see something helpful every time, have fun young man! Here's a days worth... https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&ei=ueSNXvXSLrCwytMPxNeXiA0&q=l28+rebuild+parts+list+classiczcars.com&oq=l28+rebuild+parts+list+classiczcars.com&gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYWIQA0oJCBcSBTEyLTc1SgkIGBIFMTItMTNQqKsBWP7KAWDq1gFoAHAAeACAAWSIAbsHkgEEMTIuMZgBAKABAaoBB2d3cy13aXo&sclient=psy-ab&ved=0ahUKEwi1k876idnoAhUwmHIEHcTrBdEQ4dUDCAw&uact=5

I'm still unsure how it came about, not that it matters now I'd just like to know. Natural or engineered? Will we ever know this, can it be proven? I know my 240 wouldn't run more than 5 minutes because of the crud in the fuel tank. Once I figured that out I fixed it. If this virus has no definite source how can it be fixed? I'm ignorant, not stupid so laugh all you want but 90% of the world is thinking the same.