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@Randalla

There's also a switch/plug in type thing below the brake fluid masters that can kill those lights. Good luck! Need brake lights.

Some good in general info in this thread.

Looks like they "collapsed" 2 of the ten. I'll count them Saturday. I need to rotate my tires anyhow. ?

I have an old junkyard that has quite a few left too. Story is the owners daughter drove them around like go-karts when she was a kid so he bought all he could and got them running for her to trash around.

I would get this D hubcap and hang it on a wall. They are from the beginning, the first cars.

Mine were cut by the OPs mechanic in Huntsville. It rides rough, stiff I guess. They called it "clapsing the coil". It looks good but is harsh driving it. If I had good struts it'd be okay I bet.

The 2.4s have a different pin position. The aftermarket ones can be filed down to make them work. That's what I did but Chas/ Eurodat says the Nissan ones are available and fit good. High dollar though.

I love my Tilton aluminum flywheel! It turned my 240 into my favorite death trap I no longer have, GSXR750, my family wore me down and I sold it. MSA has the Fidanza for under $400. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic22a/21-2021 I don't think I would go back to the adjustable ones that came on the 240 originally. When I switched to a 5 speed I put a Beck-Arnley self adjusting slave cylinder on mine. It could be "burnt"? They get hot and turn a kinda blue color. A machine shop can cut that out and I would think any, almost any, should be able to lighten your OE flywheel. Good luck whichever way you go. Cliff

Do you still have the OE style 240 slave cylinder? You can adjust the chatter out if it has the threaded push rod. Also the clutch pedal itself can be adjusted to a certain length.

My mistake. It's the 240s that need a different plug-in. The ZX one in a '77 instructions below thanks to "Blue" @240260280. And from your other post that Red and tacky by Lucas is my favorite. I use a grease gun though so I've never bought any in a tub but I assume they have it? http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html

What are you going to do with the alternator? Do our '77s need adapters for the ZX alternators? Thanks!

Are you stuck on a cruise boat? Call me if you are. I can entertain for a good hour.

The wife too!

Here's the best I could do how it's parked. Luckily I'm lazy and haven't boxed it up yet. I'm mailing it tomorrow. Anyhow...

Well crap, now I have to take the cover off! Back soon...

I somehow figured a way to test mine by blowing air into it and listening for leaks. It did not leak so I moved on to the valve. It leaked air!

Agree with Zed Head. I can't remember reading of a leaking core. It's always the valve or loose hoses. It's a pretty tough job too. I did mine just for defrosting the windshield.

That's one of the many reasons I'm happily single. One of my early serious girlfriends came home to find all the frozen food, racks and ice bucket out of the freezer and my dented DRZ400's fuel tank in there filled with water freezing to pop the dent out. Edit: "happily single" at 50 is an oxymoron I'm learning.

Yep, mine is 21" too. The header is a little lower than the oil pan but not as low as the bottom of the frame rails under the doors.

Cool car! So this is better to her?

Yes, the header for a '77 N47 is what you need with that P79. I've never had a hot restart problem that I can remember, even back in the '80s when I first had a Z. Soooo with these headers you definitely will not especially with your aluminum fuel rail.

You will really like the header at least I do. I put them on both my Zs and the heat reduction in the engine bay is incredible. With that header your fuel rail will feel cool to the touch after running the car. Here's my 280's motor before I put it in. Go to Harbor freight and get an load leveler. With one of those you can do it by yourself. I needed a little push to do it though, it's intimidating having that big of a thing hanging over your car. Thanks to Jeff G 78 and RossiZ again for the "push".

Do you have it connected to the head with the 2 hoses? My barrel connector for the wire to the valve came loose and wouldn't pull the valve open. You can move it with your hands. Back towards the seat opens it for heat, forward to the engine bay closes it.

You see, that's where it will scrape. The lowest point is where the straight pipe goes under the rear crossmember on my cars. If I had those bolt together flanges removed and then straight welded it wouldn't do it. I'm almost positive the header flange is even with if not higher than the oil pan. Pictures later...