siteunseen

I'm sorry to read you're having issues but you must be the only one out there because when problems pop up they get fixed in the 10 plus years I've been a member. Maybe your device is to blame? If not @bpilatican help.

I believe I'd stop the polishing and sale it as is. That engine bay looks like peanut brittle, most likely the interior too. GLWS

Are the sun visors mud flaps?

Oh man i'd forgotten about this. https://mubi.com/en/us/films/vanishing-point

That happened to my '77. Drove me nuts for 2 weeks. Finally got a hand held mirror and look at the underside of the intake. Golf ball size hole rotted around the egr connection. Look on the inside of your hood, passenger's side there should be a recall fix sticker about the egr clip upgrade.

I have it bookmarked.

My '72 has old opaque looking plastic wraps on the lines through the supports. Maybe the newer zinc plating melted or were lost somehow that away?

In my opinion if the fuel return is working properly, the fuel will not get hot. The rail is bolted to the cylinder head on my '72. I think an electric pump that pushes fuel constantly through the carbs and then back to the tank via the return line would keep it from getting too hot. My 2 cents only. I'm no mechanic just an observant knuckle buster.

That's like an air bag. It might help but it adds weight.

You can push it off and drive it? You may have a failing something in the start up side of business. Starter, solenoid maybe the coil? Have you tried jumping the positive and negative post on the solenoid with the key on, car in neutral with E-brake pulled up tight? I've had efi 280s and carbed 240s but fortunately never had hot restart issues. Good luck!

Try holding it up and down to see if you find the fit. That pocket at the bottom looks like seatback.

I'm almost positive when I had my E-31 updated my machinist was able to use seats for a Dodge Hemi motor, they measured out the same size. Just an FYI little tid-bit.

That black ground looks like the one off the AFM mount. Looking, I found a thread that might be just what you mentioned. Good luck! https://www.google.com/search?client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&q=280z+afm+ground+location+classiczcars.com&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjw3-_G4KCAAxVWjIkEHXMCCvoQ0pQJegQIChAB&biw=320&bih=545&dpr=2.25

Yeah, Stanglehold was a favorite of mine years ago. He's snorted too much talcum powder and maybe stangleholded himself more than he should've. Politics need politicians to get stuff done. I wouldn't hire Carrot Top to roof my house.

This is fantastic! One day,maybe, I'll get to do something similar.

These might help.

That hole above the word tune is the antenna up and down toggle on my early '72. From what I've seen the really early radios had the antenna up and down vertical. What threw me was where was the pre-set buttons slot.

My '72 had that J shaped heat riser coming off the exhaust manifold to the filter box. I put a msa header on and deleted the heat riser. It didn't actually connect to an exhaust manifold "hole" just rode of the manifold heat. I asked the forum what to with the air filter box opening and was advised to to leave it open as rodents storing nuts wouldn't be able to. They couldn't get over the hole to my carbs. Unless you're going to a car show I would leave the bottom hole open on the filter and Summer flap open. As stated above our carbs don't need any more heat than necessary. My carbs with the ceramic coated header are close to frosting in the winter and cool to the touch in summer.

That could be the BCDD out of adjustment. When that gets out of whack the idle stays higher longer than normal. https://www.google.com/search?q=bcdd+adjustment+classiczcars.com+site:www.classiczcars.com&client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&prmd=visn&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjS1bCp1vX_AhVyj4kEHSgQB-wQrQIoBHoECA4QBQ&biw=320&bih=545&dpr=2.25

Your front fuel filter could be clogged but most likely you have crud in the tank. Try squeezing the fuel line from the top of the filter to the fuel rail, it should be very hard to squeeze. The easiest way to tell what's inside the tank would be install a clear filter coming out of the tank but before the the fuel pump. Good write up about that here... http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/g3filter/index.htm This whole collection of 280 information got mine running. And keep it running too. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ Thanks @240260280z

In zspert's photo they could have used a straight 5/16" hose barb and saved some money. That FPR is not even a good stand in look-alike for the proper part. A '75-'77 FPR would have been a better con.

The bottom tube is for bypassed fuel keeping the pressure from getting too high, it's returned to the tank in a proper set up. Seems like we're discussing a very missed attempt to put an NLA dampener "looking" part on a high pressure fuel pump. The PO was going by looks instead of function. Had he searched he would have found an alternative. I thought we were talking about the BRE car.

High dollar lawn mower? Harbor Freight wind tunnel?

If the BRE is street legal the sale price seems like a good deal but I just glanced over the bat.com listing.

280 belly pans are still available and help keep the air flowing through the radiator then over the motor. I can't afford one for my 240. My 280 pulls air like crazy with a ZX full shroud and the OE pan on the bottom.