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Mine were cut by the OPs mechanic in Huntsville. It rides rough, stiff I guess. They called it "clapsing the coil". It looks good but is harsh driving it. If I had good struts it'd be okay I bet.

The 2.4s have a different pin position. The aftermarket ones can be filed down to make them work. That's what I did but Chas/ Eurodat says the Nissan ones are available and fit good. High dollar though.

I love my Tilton aluminum flywheel! It turned my 240 into my favorite death trap I no longer have, GSXR750, my family wore me down and I sold it. MSA has the Fidanza for under $400. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic22a/21-2021 I don't think I would go back to the adjustable ones that came on the 240 originally. When I switched to a 5 speed I put a Beck-Arnley self adjusting slave cylinder on mine. It could be "burnt"? They get hot and turn a kinda blue color. A machine shop can cut that out and I would think any, almost any, should be able to lighten your OE flywheel. Good luck whichever way you go. Cliff

Do you still have the OE style 240 slave cylinder? You can adjust the chatter out if it has the threaded push rod. Also the clutch pedal itself can be adjusted to a certain length.

My mistake. It's the 240s that need a different plug-in. The ZX one in a '77 instructions below thanks to "Blue" @240260280. And from your other post that Red and tacky by Lucas is my favorite. I use a grease gun though so I've never bought any in a tub but I assume they have it? http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html

What are you going to do with the alternator? Do our '77s need adapters for the ZX alternators? Thanks!

Are you stuck on a cruise boat? Call me if you are. I can entertain for a good hour.

The wife too!

Here's the best I could do how it's parked. Luckily I'm lazy and haven't boxed it up yet. I'm mailing it tomorrow. Anyhow...

Well crap, now I have to take the cover off! Back soon...

I somehow figured a way to test mine by blowing air into it and listening for leaks. It did not leak so I moved on to the valve. It leaked air!

Agree with Zed Head. I can't remember reading of a leaking core. It's always the valve or loose hoses. It's a pretty tough job too. I did mine just for defrosting the windshield.

That's one of the many reasons I'm happily single. One of my early serious girlfriends came home to find all the frozen food, racks and ice bucket out of the freezer and my dented DRZ400's fuel tank in there filled with water freezing to pop the dent out. Edit: "happily single" at 50 is an oxymoron I'm learning.

Yep, mine is 21" too. The header is a little lower than the oil pan but not as low as the bottom of the frame rails under the doors.

Cool car! So this is better to her?

Yes, the header for a '77 N47 is what you need with that P79. I've never had a hot restart problem that I can remember, even back in the '80s when I first had a Z. Soooo with these headers you definitely will not especially with your aluminum fuel rail.

You will really like the header at least I do. I put them on both my Zs and the heat reduction in the engine bay is incredible. With that header your fuel rail will feel cool to the touch after running the car. Here's my 280's motor before I put it in. Go to Harbor freight and get an load leveler. With one of those you can do it by yourself. I needed a little push to do it though, it's intimidating having that big of a thing hanging over your car. Thanks to Jeff G 78 and RossiZ again for the "push".

Do you have it connected to the head with the 2 hoses? My barrel connector for the wire to the valve came loose and wouldn't pull the valve open. You can move it with your hands. Back towards the seat opens it for heat, forward to the engine bay closes it.

You see, that's where it will scrape. The lowest point is where the straight pipe goes under the rear crossmember on my cars. If I had those bolt together flanges removed and then straight welded it wouldn't do it. I'm almost positive the header flange is even with if not higher than the oil pan. Pictures later...

If you have a '77 5 speed you might. I did. Install it before you put the motor back in and it'll be apparent if it touches. My 280 with 16s doesn't rub at all. The rear crossmember is bigger cutout is bigger too. That lets more pipe tucking up. My 240s is smaller. The 2.5 won't fit up in there as far and rubs very rarely. I can stop it but sometimes forget. Also it's lowered a touch with 15s and lower sidewall tires. I suppose the OE 240 exhaust diameter is smaller than a 280s? You won't have any problems. You'll most likely need a $20 resonator installed but mine sounds even better with that thing. It was too loud.

Here's mine. Monday is when I can ship this stuff. Cliff

Hey. I have that control too. I'll go get it and send you a picture later today. It's a single knob that goes from OFF through 10. It has a bracket I think, one blue wire and a bare copper line also. I'll look in my car and see if I can find where I removed it from. It was mounted under the cigarette lighter area of the dash I think? There should be two holes somewhere under there. Anyway give me a couple more hours and I'll have it. Found one! Google image search did. Mine looks like this one...

I tried that one too. I couldn't find it on there. It's a "resale everyone else's stuff" web site.

Here's what I have. Looks pretty close to me. It's attached to the drier with a worm clamp. I thoght it would be nicer than that but it's the same as your picture. You pay shipping and it's yours. PM your info if you want it. Cliff

Rubber looks best to me.