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So zinc isn't your favorite hair product like Kentucky jelly?

Show us a picture and maybe you'll figure out what caused it and how to prevent it from happening again.

Same here, that's wrong and causing higher pressure in your fuel delivery circuit. Can't think of a reason that was done but it took some effort to do so who knows? You should get another fuel rail in my opinion. Look in our classifieds, there was a few brand new replated ones for pretty cheap. @jfa.series1 has them if they're not sold yet. He's in Texas too and if I'm not mistaken you are located somewhere around there. Good luck. Cliff

I can't understand how that could be but anything is possible I guess. I would use a small gas can for the supply hose to the fuel pump then another smaller clear one for the return. 3/16" off the fuel rail at the front of the cylinder head. I can explain better with a picture later this morning when I get back home.

Whens it's jacked up, to get under there, it will drain proper. Put a new crush copper washer on the drain plug if it looks old. Don't over tighten the plug and since it's a swapped out 2.8 make sure you have the right dipstick. 240s are different than 280s. The numbers are on the dipstick and you'll find the info on the one you need to use. Google "difference in dipsticks classiczcars.com"

That's what I thought Dennis! That's a damn house payment, nice house too around here.

My favorite picture of Ms Dog.

That's too much for a service manager anyway. No wonder their bottom line is at the bottom.

What he said! Blue, fastwoman and ztrain got me hooked when I first came in. Now every person on here are friends in my mind. This will be a good year. 50 years over here and a bigger demand now. @Mike I think this years ZCON will be one that really shows off. You should bring your son? Happy 2020! I like saying that! 2020, 2020, 2020 ...Judy, Judy, Judy, Judy...

I like to stick that gasket down, especially the small "peninsula" looking piece down with aviation gasket sealer. It's like glue and holds it in place. Anti seize works great on those bolts too, they get rusty going into the steel block. The only thread sealer I can think of is Loctite. I used the blue medium strength on just about every bolt on my engine. They have a gel now that comes in a tube like a big magic marker that makes it super easy.

Against aluminum on our cars it's flat washer against aluminum, then the lock/split washer. I'm pretty sure they use the flat with aluminum only? Probably wrong but hey...

Pablo Escobar was too. In Columbia.

I've read, more than once, those non Nissan shop manuals are full of mistakes. There's one that has the wrong spark plug gap listed.

Is that your problem, vapor lock? I see you live farther South than me so I'll throw this at you. Make sure you have heat shields in place then stop the hot water from flowing through your carbs if they have that feature. My '72 did, now they run cool to the touch but I also have a ceramic coated header that reduces tons of heat over the cast iron OE exhaust manifold. Lots of info on this delete... https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&ei=A4sLXsLRJI_u_QbDvZCYCQ&q=removing+hot+water+through+the+carbs+classiczcars.com&oq=removing+hot+water+through+the+carbs+classiczcars.com&gs_l=psy-ab.12...6139.11401..16557...0.0..0.79.1293.19......0....1..gws-wiz.d3KLmkE4Hp4&ved=0ahUKEwiC376PuuDmAhUPd98KHcMeBJMQ4dUDCAs

Here's the one I remember reading with lots of info and photos. It starts off with removal but then goes to keeping the evap tank and the hoses to use.

I wonder if your plugs a dripping wet? Maybe remove on and see, that could be the weak idle.

I left out some words 240260280. My brain said "they'll make up for their mistakes off the consumers backs" but my motor skills wrote something different. Thank you for understanding the way alcohol works.

I'm glad my Nissans are paid for. They'll make their mistakes right off their consumers backs.

You removed the needle valves from the equation when you used the vent bungs. I think airing out the air filter and housing then connecting them properly will do the trick.

Mine had the longer one on the front carb. I did some reading and used two rear carb lids on my 72. They are both short and much easier to set the floats level. I have extra carbs and parts so it was a no brainer. Let me ask my Sensei @Mark Maras to be sure. I could be wrong but I doubt it.

Look below the battery box for corroded hard fue lines. Mine had some small pin holes so I cut them out and ran rubbet fuel hose to the pump. The longer valve goes to the front carb. Think about the fuel level changing going uphill. The front gets low that's why they made them longer/deeper. That's an old pump from looking on my phone. Your a/c compressor is a Yorx and oh what a pain in the butt to remove the fuel pump. If your air doesn't work I'd throw that SOB in the trash when you have to remove it. They make more efficient smaller units now that use current freon. $1,000 though so I don't have air but a nice spacious engine compartment.

Yep, they are small barrell filters in the banjo bolts right before the float chambers. I personally do not use them. I have two filters before the carbs that do the job. Those small filters are hard to find new and actually they cause a little restriction of fuel flowing into the carb in my opinion and my opinion was told to me by many folks on here and at Z Therapy. Circled in blue in this picture.

Yes, the front is longer going deeper in the chambers to account for the gas going towards the windshield when you accelerate. Note the different length "arms" that hold the pins for the floats. Front is longer for the longer valve. You just need new valves, not higher flow valves.

Turn the lids a quarter turn moving the overflow bungs away. On the rear it's counterclockwise. There's an indentation that gives you the extra wiggle room. Here's the way I do the hose.

I agree.