siteunseen

I'll get a picture of the lid turned where it'll lift up. Connect the hose for checking fuel level to the nipple on bottom where the small hose is connected that goes to the nozzle. Edit: pull the coil wire so it won't try to run off the other carb. You need someone to spin the motor while you watch the fuel level in the clear hose. It should come up to the top of that square boss on the side of the float chamber.

I'd think any pressure would stop at the float valve under the lid. The carb would be sucking fuel from the float chamber through that hose. That's my understanding.

Get one of these from amazon.com, about $20 I think.

The gas can will eliminate any problems you think may be from the tank. It is almost certainly your floats need adjusting. Take the tops off and let us see a picture or two. I'd like to see what the tang looks like. Some are bent up like a ramp and that's wrong. Your's should look more like a speed bump. There's a way to turn the lids to get them off a lot easier. You'll need new cork gaskets too. Nissan still has them or they did a couple of years ago. I can look through my 240 file and find the P/N tomorrow.

You've changed a young person's life. Like Charles said, "good for you".

You are welcome and correct on those hoses. They're still available from your local dealership if you ask them to search by part number, not car.

My '72 always had an empty fuel filter while idling. My floats were way too low and causing fuel starvation. Since setting them correctly the filter is full. The easiest and quickest way to get a rough idea is use a clear hose off the float bowl nipple. This thread got junked up after about the 4th page but there's some good info in there.

What are those yellow dots for? I've never seen that before.

4th that. Barely loosen the nuts and push down until it sits right. Carefully raise the hood and tighten them back down. Don't raise it all the way, just enough to get to the nuts. All the way up seems to "kick it out" a little on my cars when replacing the hood. Mine a outlined now with a scribe scratch although the hood will never be off again hopefully. ?

Zcardepot.com has the fuses and probably the right fpr. I bought one from rockauto.com a few years ago for my aluminum fuel rail that only needed one in and one out. Google "280z high idle classiczcars.com" and you'll find lots of things to check like a vacuum leak first off. The accordion rubber boot off the afm to the throttle body is a likely suspect as they tend to crack after 40 years.

I was curious to know if his Webers are the same as your picture. He wants a cable style throttle linkage for his set up. Sorry for the intrusion.

Is this you too @hatepotholez? Same quandary?

Here's a good read on the swap over,

Only "one try success" is that steak sauce guy. Sorry...

Put a framing square across the bottom of the head when you pull it to check flatness.

Classic!

I'd say Grannies Map gas would be best, imho.

I had to use a 1/2" drive 24 inches long pull handle in the plug then pushed it up with a floor jack. My cheap impact wouldn't budge it.

Yes, spring time if you can. I haven't cranked mine in at least a month, too much going on with the holidays and such. Goodluck whatever you decide to do.

AC/DC and GNR too. Guy even looks like Slash.

Just now hearing these guys, Led Zeppelin copycats but they sound pretty good. EDIT: lead singer looks to have that disease that kills the best musicians, too happy looking.

Looks good! Welcome to Z world.

Wow! Nice car right there.

I'm guessing that TT means twin turbo? Glad you sold the Z, you have something else to drive. I agree with Zed Head. Christmas and taxes lock me up at the end of the year. Flip side, you can get some good deal at the end of the year. Motorcycles and boats, lawn mowers...