siteunseen

I ground the weight off the skinny side of the rods with a die grinder. Up and down both sides until they weighed.

You will have some interior work, the console and shifter. Read about replacing OE nylon bushings with bronze door hinge bushings from the assortment pack at a parts stores Help section. Also you can hang the transmission from the shifter hole while you pull the driveshaft.

They do look good! Now you should weigh them and make them the same. Seems like mine were 700 something grams each, cap and rod together. Just remembering how I did that and I may have the number wrong. I had to weigh a railroad spike and write that down then hang the spike on the scales and weigh the pistons. Added those two numbers together I believe was what I did.

Amazon.com has it, $20.

I'd have a machine shop test them for squareness and sag. I've read the exhaust go bad first. From Tom monroe's book...

I'll take that as a positive review. I love my Vietnamese bumpers. That sounds bad... Vietnamese young ladies.

You won't be disappointed. Hopefully he's included the crome bolts for the rear now. I ended up buying stainless and buffing those up to nice shine. Short carriage bolts with nylon locking nuts, bought from Lowes. Oh yeah, I put some small rubber pieces on the sides to keep them off my paint. You'll see what I'm talking about.

Yes, It was done by Walter Moore. I'd forgotten who created the spreadsheet. My dizzy has those numbers stamped on the outside body and the weights were 18 each for 36 total advance. It may not be an actual '79's but it's close enough for me. Good luck Matthew. You've made good decisions so far, I'm sure that will remain true. Cliff

Too much air is a bad thing. Do you need more?

I run a 1.5 Cane fireball with my '79 zx distributor, no small "beer can" condensor. Plugs at .44. Works great.

The first one sounds like a dog pound.

I bought a '79 ZX distributor as it had the best "curve" from the Excel spreadsheet floating around here. Wired it like the atlanticz.ca Tech Tips without any issues. Works great, tach and all.

I recently had to buy one from the dealership and it was around $100 maybe? Yours looks dead on from here. How much are they?

You should build a motor crate, cheap and easy.

What webers did you get? You might read some and get the easier SU carbs. I had some triples and sold them. Too much tuning for me, never installed them. The SUs are so much simpler and pull good enough for me. Everybody says the webers sound good. What the hell does that add?

I've read lower psi hydraulic hose will work with fuel but not recommended for long term. 250 psi has a different rubber compund than 1400 psi. After seeing Jalex's photos I believe that. Why take the chance...

Thanks Steve! I may get some pliers. I remember using a deep socket to tap mine down but I didn't feel completely confident so I went with OE seals. I used the Fords as a practice run on an e88. Sometime soon I'll be putting them on an e31 with a high lift cam. Your private messaging still works the same I suppose? Many questions I'll be asking, I'm sure.

How did you figure the valve seals were down far enough without creating that bulge? We talked about a few years ago and I used a certain height with feeler gauges. You said you were going to make some type of spacer maybe?

My turn! Excuses, like a knee jerk. Ding their brain then hear them blame and complain. That's my gripe with young people today. Thanks!

Hopefully it cured enough. The directions say until the smell is gone. A lot of radiator shops that do them bake them to speed it up. I used a leaf blower and sat mine in the sun for a week then it wasn't smelly. If you use a clear filter before the fuel rail, I like before the main one myself it's easiest, it should show trash pretty quick. Good luck! Reading along but can't add with these guys. They are good.

Amazon Prime = frequent flier points. Looks good!

That's hydraulic hose. Not fuel hose. Replace all of it, with 1400 psi on it, asap.

When the filter's screen gets clogged from suction it'll run poorly. When that falls away it'll run good for a bit then repeats. I used that red liner too, Red Kote. But it needs to cure, as Patcon says, for at least a week, the longer the better. Put a fram G-2 before the main filter under the hood. Frams are $3, OE metal ones are $15.