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That's what I use too. No problems with mine, they have a good response from a dead stop. Blue 3 in 1 from Lowes.

Mine is a Tilton or Tifton maybe? Anyway it's aluminum except the contact surface. I don't know what a single or double mass flywheel is. It came with a 240 project car I bought off a dude years ago. My only recollection of clutch chatter is when they get burnt, hot spots on the friction ring from "riding the clutch". Holding your car on a hill with the clutch instead of the brakes. I always have mine cut down to fresh metal when I change out a clutch. Cliff

Never heard that before. Get your OE one cut and lightened. Thats the cheaper route.

I really like my 11lb aluminum flywheel. My cars revs like a motorcycle and is any different to drive than my stock 280s flywheel. I read that a stage 3 clutch is a lot harder to push in and will wear your leg out if you're not used to one. I went with OE spec Exedy kit. $100 from Amazon. I will suggest you have the throwout bearing pressed on at a machine shop. The one I put on my self has a slight spinning sound when not engaged. I didn't get it down far enough I suppose. The one I had done is quite and it seems like he only charged $10.

This looks a bit suspect to me. Anyone one else see the kink or pinch? You have plenty of extra hose. Cut that end off and reattach, IMHO.

That's a good pic of the wheel color we talk about, pretty definitive evidence but mine is darker said the defense.

I used elastomeric caulk on that 110 I had. Worked good. If I did that again I would use something to get the textures to a closer match. A sponge?

I tightly zip tied mine then Gorilla Glued it. The trick for me was carfully engaging those 3 metal snap clips as you turn it into place. I don't use the horn button anymore. The middle finger works just fine out the window of a bright orange '72 car.

Nice looking tires and wheels but too many lug nuts for us.

The screen pick up in the pan feeds the pump then it goes through the filter before the motor. There's a high pressure relief with a ball and spring at the filter. If I recall correctly.

Leon V suggested the cheap stock oem clutch and pressure plate was fine, and it was/is. Exedy 6009 I think from amazon, $100. Works great. Thanks again @LeonV Saved me some $. I was about to go with a $300 stage 3 kit from Center Force.

It will restrict the flow back to the tank therefore stopping the 36psi to 10psi. Just another trouble shooting technique I've used. Do you have the OEM FPR still? They rarely go bad but they do occasionally. The aftermarket ones are $^!#.

That's what brought you here I'd bet. I did the same thing! Your in good hands with "Allstate" guys here, solid information from lots of experience. Good luck and hopefully you'll be up and running shortly.

Try clamping the return hose off. Needle nose Vise Grips with rubber hoses on them work for me. Don't completely close it off, work up a little at a time.

Well there you go! He'll starve to death before he let's them whip him.

Make sure the nozzles are moving freely with the choke lever, up when off and down when lever is pulled back.

I had a Nakamichi Dragon in one of mine back in the 80s. Darn good head unit.

Does the Kleen Flo soften the filler neck? If so I need a couple of cans. ?

Sorry to be late with this and it seems you have a plan already but you can read over it for the future. It's a brief description of the switch over he came up with. We may put mine on in Nashville next year. He said it's that simple. INSTALLING CATERA MAXIFUSE UNIT INTO A S30.pdf

My aluminum one is 11lbs. No problems driving my end of the Appalachian Mountains. I stall it a couple of times backing up my driveway but that because I'm trying not to disturb my neighbors. It's kind of loud and raspy when you get the RPMs up.

I bought my from Nissan and they didn't have the extra metal. It's embedded into the rubber. Try bending one. The Felpro seals do have the extra metal nails Tom Monroe talks about.

Do you know when the metal to plastic switch happened? My early '72 is all plastic. Thank you for any info. Cliff

On my car the alternator went out. It killed everything but it did burn that fuse you're talking about, in front of the shifter. Have you checked the spade plug on the starter? When suppertimes over Steve will figure out you problem.

It was actually my alternator. Popped the IGN fuse killing everything else.

My alternator killed my '72. No gauges moved when the ignition switch was in ON position.