siteunseen

Have you looked at futofab.com? My chrome plated plain straight ones came through him then to me from Vietnam. Same boxes too. They were/are perfect to me and were the better price. That was a 'black Friday sale" though but that's just around the corner

I use a savings account I put just enough money in to cover the price. Give them that acct. # and they can't wipe out my checking account. You could never be overly cautious in my opinion. They are trying their hardest to screw us!

All I can add is a picture of my early '72's set. Hope it helps in some way or another. If your using a phone you can "blow it up" pretty easy. If you need a specific area let me know and I'll get it asap.

When I rebuilt my motor I thought I had the linkage right in between my carbs. Boy was I off! I had those flat stops next to the carbs out of order and on the first crank of a anxiety filled rebuild it shot up to about 3,000 rpms with the pedal rod off. Just about scared me to death.

I like to show my other interest too. Here's a boat I had that was really fun for about 10 years. This was taken the first weekend with the stock 150. I went way "overboard " with a 2.5 liter 200 horse Mercury motor that cost more than the boat. My Dad had one too but it was the family boat. I could flood him out with the "rooster tail" off mine. those were the days... $1.50 a gallon gas then we got "Katrina-ed", $3.00 to $4.00 a gallon. ☠️

Looks fantastic!

@Namerow That guy from Pittsburgh, with his car in front of PPG Industries too. Can't think of his name...

Man, you Z people do it right! That's really nice. I have the car but not the stalls. One of these days!

I used aviation gasket sealer on mine. It helped, especially on those little peninsula looking flow walls.

@S30Grit just cleaned his cold start valve. Maybe he has some info that might be useful?

I have the size to go sideways but those darn verticle supports won't allow more than my mower. There's an apartment overhead so I probably should leave them.

I'm sure it's just one and I've seen many that have melted the insulation off that wire. Sand the firewall too under there.

They resurface the flywheel to get the hot spots out where they're slick. Instead of doing a light cut they go a little deeper until it's the weight you want. I've seen the machine they use. It's a horizontal milling machine. Most shops have one I would think. The small town shop here has one so I bet you'll have no problem finding one. It left a circular cut on mine and it seems like he said they use cutting stones? Anyway it's like a floor polisher on top of your flywheel.

I think that flap is more for keeping the pump's handle from scratching our cars paint if you let it hang on itself. I'm sure it catches a drip or a few but I always turn the handle horizontally and tap it on the opening to get those drips out. I thought about making one out of a tire's tube which wouldn't harden but after seeing the leather ones I might try that? Thanks for another option @ramsesosirus.

https://images.app.goo.gl/D7RiZctxWPzutAsL9

Did a restoration of the octane in both cars today! Pretty tough job but I'm happy with the results. Guy at the pump next to me said I should wash my car. It shines like a new nickel so I told him I was just getting a splash of gas to make it to the "buy 10 gallons and get a free car wash" place on the other side of town. He looked at me sideways for a second or 2 then started smiling. It was great.

What he said. More fuel in the chamber you need to bend the tang down, away from the needle.

That looks like new! I mearsured from the roof of the lid down 23mm and made my line on the small jar. Then when my fuel leveled out at that line I considered that right. Put it all back together and it runs better than ever. My clear pre fuel filter filter stays completely full now as before it was always filling itself at idle that I could watch in my garage. There's another popular way but I haven't tried it. I think it would be easy for you now that you have yours apart somewhat. Google "fuel level 10 turns down classiczcars.com". Here's the jar I used, figuratively. Close anyway. You might take the opportunity now to, fuel resistant RTV, "glue" the cork gaskets to the lids. I'm using my phone now but can try and clarify this post better Saturday. Waiting to be seated, patiently...

You'll share if it's crap right? I won't waste any money either.

It looks like they are the opposite of what my floats were. Instead of too high they seem to be bent down too far???

If you can't blow any air in the fuel bung you should be good to go. I was a little confused at first glance but now I see how much of a bigger glass you are using than my rig. One thing though. Could you post a picture of the float tang when you get a chance? It looks like yours is bent up pretty far but it's hard to tell. If you have time I would suggest bending them down so they're more horizontal then set the fuel levels. To me it looks like you won't have a full float chamber the way they are now if that makes sense. They should look closer to this one. Disregard that red circle.

I'd go with the machinest's opinion. Head looks nice in your photos.

Your cold start isn't plugged up in the first pic. Looks like it is in #2.

I think it would be a good idea to take a pic of the driver's side of your motor and post it. It's amazing what will "jump out" at these guys if it's wrong. I'm mainly wanting to see how your AAR hoses are routed. In '78 Nissan changed it around to keep some gunk out of the Auxiliary Air Regulator like this picture. That thing keeps the idle high until it warms up then closes off the extra air and then the idle drops. Here's a shot of the bullet connectors that get plugged up wrong a lot of times too. Welcome to the forum! You won't find a nicer or more helpful group.