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The Moog 9011 is greaseable. 14mm Thread MOOG® Problem Solver® products incorporate proven design and engineering features for like-new suspension, ease of installation and longer life. MOOG is the preferred steering and suspension parts brand of professional technicians and NASCAR Crew Chiefs. Construction and design validated by MOOG engineers Greaseable socket reduces corrosion and wear by allowing new lubricant to flush contaminants Loose or worn chassis parts can lead to premature tire wear Long-lasting performance Restores like-new steering and handling Material Neoprene Castle Nut Included Yes Cotter Pin Hole Yes Mounting Hole Quantity 3 Greasable Yes Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 4016078500, 40160A3405, 40160A8600, 40160A8610, 40160A8625, 40160U7000

Here's a DIY idea for those using MSA kit. http://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/seat-rebuild/ https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08f04/40-2690

@GregP Clarifying my point here because it's bothering me. The fuel valves above the floats can and do get sticky/stuck after sitting. I've bought new ones, to me, that were. My thinking was if those valves aren't opening your fuel has hit a dead end. By filling those bowls the floats should raise and move the needles in close them off. BUT poking the floats with the straw should get them to bounce like a fishing bobber and move those needles. The floats are so close to the wall the straws movement will be minimal, maybe up and down a quarter inch? Best of luck and please share the problem when you get it whipped. Cliff

I like the bcdd and the dashpot on mine. I had them both mia but after reading I found out how to get them working. No more stalling at stops. My $.02.

It's a measure 10 times, check level up and down 6 times, don't get in a hurry job for sure but it's actually easy. I was quite surprised with my results.

The injectors hold mine up nice and firm. You'll need to get a '78 FPR and I used high heat threadlocker I believe from Permatex. Tried teflon tape but it leaked. That stuff dissolves in gas. Just saw your post above, Slow Hand typer. You buy it by the foot but it's actually shorter. I'll measure mine and get the total length asap. I have some photos on my laptop you need to see. Run a "T" out the back, one to the FPR and the other side to the CSV. And the threads on the barbs won't reach into the main line of the rail.

When I did my horn pad I put Vaseline on DATSUN lightly with a Q-tip then sprayed it satin black. Wiped off the jelly then went over the DATSUN with a metallic silver oil based Sharpie paint pen. Looks onederfull.

Have you checked behind the water pump? The front cover corrodes behind that little baby.

I zipp tied mine to the driver's side windshield wiper and it worked great.

You should buy this book if you're going to keep the "habit" we all have. It's for rebuilding but also a good reference after the build part. My $.02. https://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128030/ref=asc_df_1931128030/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312014160183&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4264106029397166523&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012731&hvtargid=pla-684015945792&psc=1

Henry Hoover!

This is nitpicking bulls**t but look at the front of the valve cover above the thermostat housing, driver's side. They could've put the gasket on upside down. I guess an easy way to test that would be removing the oil fill cap and see if there's a change in rpms. If they drop you most likely won't have a vacuum leak that small...

I'd go back. Sounds like the vacuum leak wasn't fixed or you have more. They could have the timing right now but forgot to lower the idle adjustment which is too much airflow just like the vacuum leak.

Pour gas down through here and fill the float chambers. I call them chambers but they're float bowls too. When you get them full try sticking a wd-40 red straw down and see if you call feel the floats moving up and down.

Thank you! I couldn't remember who and how to find that blue one. I can sleep now.

D a m n! I agree with you but WOW that's crazy money. bizarro world A world where everything is the exact opposite. Up is down, first is last, good is bad, wrong is right, white is black, logical is illogical, giving is taking, insanity is sane, liberty is tyranny, and vice versa. It's a place where literally, the sky is forest green and the trees are sky blue.

Try taking the gas cap off and see what it does. Pull the hose off the input of the filter and see if you can suck fuel up, or blow into it and listen for bubbling in the tank.

They're "double threaded rod with a nut". You see the shorter threads? They go into the water pump.

I hope I remember this right... Short threaded end of studs into water pump slide the pulley/hub looking thing over them put the fan clutch on the other end of the studs and then put the lock washers and nuts on get some band aids for your bleeding knuckles

I fixed my 240's cracks with fiberglass weave and ABS black glue. Worked it on the underside and it turned out great.

Looks good until the hood pics. Price seems in line.

Another idea... I've read on here where cars that sat needed fuel poured into the overflow bungs to get the floats moving up and down maybe unsticking the fuel valves? If you get the float chambers full of fuel at least it would run for a little longer than ether. Maybe if you got it going and worked the throttle rod it would fix itself? Kinda like an "Italian tune up". Good luck!

Is the filter on the inner fender full? Run a hose off the outlet nipple of the pump into a can and work the arm. See if it pumps gas out. Also a good place for the pressure gauge.

Grose Jet fuel valves. No wires.