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I bow down in shame. Went downstairs to wash some clothes and the smell of gas hit me. Which one you did this?

You are 100% right Chris! I've split a couple of the ends over the years and that threaded center stalk deteriorates over time. A fuel filter that's not fuel proof? Anyway I hand tighten mine and check them all the time. I will look around for an aluminum one like you've posted, Jegs has good variety. Thanks, Cliff. I like this one...

I use blue 3 in 1 also. $3 at Lowes.

Here's the thread I started after I did the 280's tank. That was my learning experience. I will post the "better" way I used on the 240 tomorrow.

I'll write up what I did tomorrow morning. Cliff

I haven't seen one yet but they're out there.

Yes! @Bonzi Lon told me about that important step. The instructions say let it cure until there's no chemical smell. Mine sat for about a month for the 240's, my 280 sat for two weeks. I have some helpful tips I can share on the whole tank refurbishing thing. Glad to help if I can.

I'm kinda weird I guess but I like to see the fuel to make sure it's not colored any shade of red from the tank lining. My car sits for months without being cranked much less moved to slosh the fuel around inside the tank. I have a Fram G2 out of the tank, the glass one then the OE mounted on the inside fender. Another neat thing about those glass filters, when my float levels were off that thing was never completely full. After a painstaking week of getting the floats right that filter has always been completely full. If I see it's not full and filling itself up as the car runs I will revisit the float levels.

What do y'all think about spoons? I use one almost daily without poking my eyes out.

We might be brothers!

In 2015 I cleaned then coated the fuel tank on my 240. Today I put a new screen in the low pressure glass filter that I use. Nothing even close to pink from the Red-Kote, yea for me!

That's a nice looking Z Tom!

You had a York but that newer style fuel pump wouldn't go on with that huge bracket holding the compressor.

I have all that Yorx crap in my storage building. It was dealer installed in 1972 but I would consider getting rid of it or whatever parts you may need. I'd go with a newer Gen Air system. EDIT: Vintage Air has the Gen system. Sanden is good from all I've read like Mr Arnett mentioned above.

If you look above the master cylinders you'll see a ID plate with the engine number, then you'll know if it's the original motor.

I've had the same one since cleaning the fuel tank on my 280 in 2011. My clear filter looks like new too so I'm not breaking out my wallet either.

It's the same motor that came in my '77. N42 cast iron block with 86mm cylinder bores. It has a N47 cylinder head, you can see this between #1 and #2 spark plugs. Mine was the early change over head that had a oiler cam PLUS a spray bar resulting in very low oil pressure on the gauge but flooded the valve train with oil. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_L_engine

Efi fuel filters hold about a quart.

Are you talking about the carbs oil? That's the dampeners I think of. I use 20 weight in mine. A lot of people use automatic transmission fluid.

I like this stuff on aluminium.

On the firing order, the wires are #1 through #6 on the block's front to rear. I forgot to add that.

I think zcardepot.com has the sending unit for a later 280? Nope. '74 is all I found. Sorry

That'll buff out. Seriously, it doesn't look that bad to me.?.?.?.?.