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I found an old thread from @Jarvo2 that maybe helpful? Couldn't find your taken apart thread Zed Head. https://www.google.com/search?q=vacuum+advance+Zed+Head+classiczcars.com&bih=688&biw=1455&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&hl=en&sxsrf=AJOqlzVK5ONJsSCqMcJz2sHkT2mwvGxntA%3A1676663907335&ei=Y9zvY6qBFKGmqtsP5P68uAk&ved=0ahUKEwjqvurkq539AhUhk2oFHWQ_D5cQ4dUDCBA&uact=5&oq=vacuum+advance+Zed+Head+classiczcars.com&gs_lcp=Cgxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAQAzIICCEQoAEQwwQyCAghEKABEMMEOggIABCGAxCwAzoFCAAQogQ6CggAEPEEEB4QogRKBAhBGAFQ6QZYtxlgoSdoAnAAeACAAZQBiAHBA5IBAzEuM5gBAKABAcgBAsABAQ&sclient=gws-wiz-serp

Have you tried to bypass the possibility of a dirty fuel tank and run the fuel hose that comes from the tank to a 2 gallon gas jug? I did this on my '72, put the can between the grill and the radiator and secured it with bungee cords. Drove around the neighborhood, it ran fine off the jug. That's when I found that I a tank full of crud.

Yeah the efi cars use high pressure pumps which pump about 40 to 50lbs until the pressure regulator. That kind of pressure will find a loose connection or split in a hurry.

Also the newer filters that I hate, aren't quart size so they throw off the standard 5 qts. that we all know. I use these...

He's going to send it back on the wooden crates he makes I would bet unless you want your metal crate back. I've made a couple of those crates and put steel casters on them to roll the blocks around while rebuilding. It's nice to be able to sit down and work on the motors. @Diseazd has a wall lined with original motors stored on them. Here's a L2.8 block on one I've used to hold the cylinder head down while I did some work on it.

Apparently I've bumped my head and missed a few days. You were driving it a few days ago and had a gauge on there showing it was dropping psi with higher engine speed. Now you're able to remove the main bearings. Since it is apart take the oil filter off and push on that shiny metal ball and check how stiff or soft it is to push in. Just for poops and giggles I'd like to know. It should be about as hard to push down as poking in the sidewall of the tires a little bit. Pretty hard I'd say. Thanks

I'm pretty sure that's the same as my '77. #305 metallic blue.

What's your method for repairs?

I've got the potentiometer or rheostat that Patcon talks about on my coolant temp sensor. I think you could add enough fuel through that to make the efi run with a mild cam. Somebody needs to try it. I'm just too busy. I do know I can flood mine down to stalling, barely run with it.

And I must apologize. Your car is different, duh, from what I'm used to seeing. Caught me off guard. Anyway 6 of 1, half a dozen of the other. It will be fun learning the differences in our cars. Old dog here but I enjoy new info.

There's no fuel filter. The pcv hoses look messed up to me. There's a lot of stuff not terminated it looks like? What's up with the injectors. Looks like a fuel line to each one. Fairlady 2.0 is very different than my Datsun 2.8.

Best bang for the buck and not worry about sniffer test is an aluminum flywheel. You can buy one or have the OE lightened as much as possible. I got lucky and bought a 240 project with an 11 pound Tifton or Tilton?? but Findaza still makes them I think. My car revs like a motorcycle. With the header and performance exhaust it sounds like a Ferrari screaming bloody murder.

My egr tube came loose and after years the exhaust gasses rotted a hole in my intake manifold about the size of a golf ball. Chased that problem until I put a handheld mirror under there and saw the huge vacuum leak. Replaced the intake and deleted the egr which is way more than just pullung that stuff off. There's some vacuum lines and thermal vacuum switches you have to deal with too. I'm with Zed Head on the reverse tuning you're going to have to do but you're here where everybody likes to solve issues. The forum has been needing a good puzzle too. You are a pleasant and thankful guy so it'll get back to running soon. We like pictures that show what you're talking about so the more the better even though the car's in one place and you travel. Do a photo dump when you're back with the car. Zed Head will figure it out.

This is a good place for those mental roadblocks. These guys sure have helped me.

Oh yeah. You said the fuel tank was bypassed when you bought the car. What's the reason if you know? The metal fuel filer up front could be horribly clogged starving it for fuel at higher rpm. Pressurize the system and try pinching the fuel line coming out the top of the filter. It should be really hard to pinch. If it's soft and squishy the filtet is probably clogged.

Will they run without the TPS? I can't remember reading anyone bypassing the switch, too lazy to go downstairs and try. Maybe this weekend...

There's a chance you have mismatched parts. The oil pickup could be wrong. The oil dipstick too which would show full when it could be low. 240, 280s and ZXs all are different. The high pressure bypass under the oil filter could have a weak spring. Teflon tape on the oil sender threads could be blocking the hole into the sender. That's a few things I've read on here over the years. If the top of the head is soaked with oil I wouldn't worry to much.

My '77 had that pink bondo looking stuff too and I'm almost positive the pump was OE. I think those plastic things are like some kind of "locker" type device to keep the terminals secure. Just a guess though. I'm doing a link to something really helpful to the 280 owners if you haven't seen it. https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm

They left off the "w". You should adjust whole plug not just half of it.

My girl baked me a cake one time. I had to buy antibiotics afterwards.

That hole in the drums lets you turn the adjustment wheel on a 240. Not 100% sure if the 280s have that adjustment? but if you can't get the hole lined up to the toothed wheel then it's no good. Hit the drums with a rubber hammer or small sledge if you have replacements. My country arse would try dragging it with my lawnmower to unstick them, been there done that.

You'll see it kinda boucing around the cam lobes when the caps off. It's not going to shoot out like crazy if the car's idling.