siteunseen

These are the rubber plugs to the sides of the latch on the bottom of the hatch where it hits the slam panel.

Originally mine had some black urethane caulk type stuff. I had to remove mine to get the bolts/screws that held down the rear spoiler. The weather stripping is what will use just like Zed Head. Here's the best i can get on the OE sealer...

Nice car. I can't remember seeing the blue rocker paint strip on one before. Maybe some special paint scheme? Maybe blue paint tape left on?

I bought some from a guy that found them in the attic of a house he bought. They look like they've been stored since new too. $125 I think I paid. Lucky life we live!

It's been awhile for mine too but seems like it sprays pretty hard unlike newer cars. I do know I used a needle to move the little eyeball like sprayer's direction so it hit where I wanted it to.

That sounds like something with the brakes to me. The coil overs aren't the problem. You should pull the wheels and see what's rubbing. Put a jack under the wheels/tires and put "weight" on them. Not free hanging. Look for shiny spots where the tires might be rubbing.

I drove my '72 to the local grocer's and picked up some supplies. I do today what I plan on doing the New Year. Hopefully I want have a heart attack.

Burn one and see if you get ashes or drips.

That's hilarious! My sniffer.

See how this works @jalexquijano

I think the smell is coming off the carbs. But who knows, there's so many places it could be seeping out of. If it's a strong gas smell I say the carbs, nozzles not pulling up completely or the J hose that goes from float bowls to the carb may be bad. That sniffer will help. That'll be a good valentines gift to whatever her name is then. Thanks @DatsunZGuy.

I think I turn these slightly clockwise, the rear ones???. The fronts are opposite. You'll get it just be easy and when you get them off use some fuel resistant RTV black i think and glue the float chamber lid gasket onto the lids. It'll save you many big time headaches in the future.

Yes, they are made kind of shaped like a circle but idents on the sides where the bolts/screws hold them in place. If you lift up and turn them where the narrow part barely clears the carb body it'll raise up. Just barely but it will.

See how we flock together? Like blackbirds.

Good call Charles and Mark! They can be disassembled and cleaned too.

That couldn't hurt I wouldn't think, just make sure the pistons maintain their free falling when you tighten down the domes. Is this something that just began happening, has it not been a problem previously? You could take the handle of a screwdriver and lightly tap around the float chambers to un-stick the floats if they could be stuck. Another way is stick a small red tube off a WD-40 can down the the vent bungs and see if the floats feel "bouncy" or buoyant in the fuel. Your fuel pressure couldn't have increased in any way? Sorry I'm just guessing but it will start a bunch of others to add their thoughts. Good luck. Cliff

I guess I would lift the pistons and see if they drop down freely? That's what the needles are attached to and the needles seat into the nozzles which close off fuel flow.

There's a vinyl rectangle on the inside bottom of the rear hatch above the locking mechanism. Mine needed resealing I thought but after the simple first fix I found the evap hoses that run behind the interior plasic cover where the brake lights are was were mine was stinking. There's a couple of round rubber plugs that dry rot and crack also. That stuff seems minimal but the way the air flows over the hatch and kind of rolls over and over behind the taillights above the rear bumper it gets sucked into the cab pretty good. I used duct tape and covered everything to see what helped and what didn't. Once I figured out where it was coming from I fixed things and moved to the next possible source. Eventually it went away. During the mean time I kept the driver's side window down.

The high fuel reading may be from the rod on the new sending unit not matching the bend of the previous, most likely the OE. I know you can touch those wires together and it will show FULL on the gauge. You may have them on the wrong terminals. The thread I linked above describes which one to what post. Hope it helps.

Those are for a fuel pump.

Cruel and unusual punishment is over for the next few days. Mother Nature is an illegal border crosser from Canada, she's overburdening our air "Build the wall".

Do you need a oiler cam or is it pre 9/76 that has the spray bar? I've got some "JAPAN" stamped S30 oe cams and I might consider selling. Heres a chart on original cams... https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/cam/index.htm

Okay a comma would've been best, ..."good and tight, (coma) all of the connections while your bent over." Picky, picky, picky. If your last name isn't Strunk or White back off. I'm from Alabama. I get some leeway. Furthermore sniffing my house plants makes me sneeze. You must smoke them skunks like turkey meat.

The guy I work for is doomsday prepper and has a huge house about half a mile from me. Generac that uses natural gas to run a 4 cylinder Ford motor and a walk in liquor/wine cellar. Always welcome so I hope my power goes out.