siteunseen

I'm all about learning and enjoy the "local spoken" translations you share with me/us. I ask the locals to wherever I'm visiting where they eat and drink instead of shiny signs on the main road. Borat is where I'm headed with this. You would be very similar to that character if you came over here. A good ernest guy making friends with a huge language barrier. If I came to your neighborhood with my country bumpkin "mirenukert" you all would have me strung up on a high tree limb. Thank you for being friendly with us, learning our language and very often teaching us. You are a character! (that's positive)

This seems like a good regulator for not too much money. I ran a Holley blue low pressure pump and regulator on my boat and it was flawless for years, high cost up front though. This is one from amazon.com https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Adjustable-Regulator-Injection-Accessories/dp/B08S757C76/ref=asc_df_B08S757C76/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=507600687300&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15473091677829872037&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=200524&hvtargid=pla-1212457430535&psc=1

That's where mine are for my 240. The newer 280 has them attached to the side of the compact spare tire.

I think it's good to run the cars once a month with the radiator cap off so you can see coolant flowing clockwise over the radiator, that'd be towards the passenger's side on American Zs . You need to move the fuel AND coolant once in awhile. I try for every Sunday but realistically maybe 2 a month.

Are you using a carb fuel rail, supply and return? That's where the reducer is. Small hole on return keeps it bottled down to 3-ish pounds.

I've got 2 Zs with the plastic pre pump filter. They stay full of fuel. Does yours? It looks close to empty in your pic which could be something simple in the flow direction. If those pumps aren't fed adequately they'll overheat and live a short life.

Music and boobies will never get old. Good to hear from you Mr Betty!

This would be my pick for a popular image but that girl leaning on the green 240 is at the top. Grayme Suckling cross flow radiator is 2nd on my screen.

If that's your faceplate in post #1, I would try a chrome or aluminum oil Sharpie on the lines. I had great results from this thanks to the tip from @psdenno I found mine and it's silver not aluminum.

Insured through classic car insurers like Haggertys much sooner. Way better than lumping them in with my other cars.

I've not seen one with the ring connector either. Pre EFI has a single wire for the gauge only, the 280s have one for the gauge and one for the high pressure fuel pump cutoff. I'm pretty sure I used the yellow size crimp bullet connector on my '72. You could buy the new sender then figure out your connection when you get it.

I've gotten more than one, just remembered I ask but never got an answer.

I have and was not long ago. A very generic username too. They are a "supporting member" and active on the site so I'm not worried.

You beat me to the answer Steve. Much easier to try the volume knob.

Trying to make sense of the dial up more fuel thinking. Mine is about half way between 0 and 10 on the volume knob. That's back to normal running on my 280. Resistance is trying to cut my dog's toenails.

I thought it was for the hairspray. You know...brushes and all that a starter needs.

If it's already lean as mine was just consider without the pot switch you're at -10????? whatever. So I add the potentiometer and can make it 0 or dial it all the way back and lean it out to -10. Go full the other way and I can fatten it up so much it barely idles. So to quote some politician it's all relative to what it is today as to what it can be tomorrow.

Here's what I went by. It's really easy and even easier to remove if it doesn't help. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html

My '77 ran horribly up until about 2,500 RPM. I jerked and bucked between running good and bad, popped through the throttle blade too but above that certain RPM range it ran great. I read and read until I was overwhelmed by possibilities of what it could be. I decided to take a chance and went to Radio Shack and got the volume knob for a stereo. $5 dollars and some speaker wire I have plenty of now I have the potentiometer in the passenger's floor board so I can fine tune while driving. From what I gathered in all that reading was the ECU would get out of spec over time and the pot addition brought it back to life. It worked great for me and now I have a new something to distract me while driving. Page 3 is the good stuff out of the whole thread...

Has whoever tried moving the fronts to the rear? I haven't been keeping up so just a thought. Good luck.

No. I bought the rewinds and new tires after new everything else. High speed shake is usally the tie rods. Shaking when you're coming to stop is the rotors. You could have an alignment done. That might help.

Damn time bandits!

I bought both sets of Rewinds from Discount Tire. They wanted $45 for the lug nuts but I found them cheaper. This was 2011 and 2015 and they were $25 or $30 back then from those guys on ebay. Exact same set with the same black extension adapter for tire tool or impact gun. Same wheels as Blitzed shows in post #33. I have them on my 240 and 280.

I've bought 2 sets from these guys. They are high quality too, not cheap as you would think off ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/110687628566?hash=item19c57f2d16:g:l8cAAOxyn9BRZsRz&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8DfMmYIdef%2BSZiKbYt7w33lBvjkAJOjX5orwX4%2FBMHywvT7ril9%2F1yrM1Oq4%2BL9jh9b%2BP2i5R806emTN6nE4EYlaunW5JvbVJY80L%2B7p8Je3KoRrA12ak7NSQW4Xv6WsLh8sNwoW0%2BVY8zD6cCZ2r%2BajJxaYv7DqBMoakhE5IEFvYtWot4Mo0OvI70SvwGCET1gDauTgDGdIbRNR1NUt6pWwZK3huPdozLHyjIUTSsMoHNBd%2BnZLv1S6%2BwvgbhIxSuQSgCcYwsB3TBknxSLIfprt466rsGwHSFUC7pXBydrJDqPfeI9%2F41hQSVyU5pl19w%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5Kq9qHlYQ