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They need to look like these. You say "comes up short", could you not stack enough washers under the valve to raise it?

A good Por-15 thread with one of the best videos I've seen from @240260280

Cheap and easy. Put rubber hose over the ends of needle nose vise grips and clamp the return line to "none shall pass". That will increase fuel psi to the rail/ injectors. If it runs better there's your sign.

I like the original. You have all the hose connections already there. They are a little tricky getting the cover and filter in place but once you get the carbs adjusted right you won't need to remove anything for a long time. The filters are still available from Nissan too. https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-air-filter-16546e3210

That thick gray teflon tape might hold it in place too? Good deal for $40 imho.

The only leather on my 1977 is the shift boot lace.

Might read something in here useful. Good luck.

I changed my LIKE to WOW. I've watched that 10 times that I know of and never noticed the Z. Great eye Zed Head.

Good advice. I gave mine a quick rip this morning, it's faster than I remembered.

I got lucky and have ZX full shrouds on both mine. The 240 has a 280 radiator which sits a few inches closer to the ground but so far and lack of driving it I've never had a problem. Actually the front spoiler is a hair lower than the larger radiator. Also have a belly pan on the 280. That car flows a lot of air over the motor. 240 belly pans are unicorns in my experience. I followed blues tech tips and put an e12-80 on my '77, never had a problem. That's what I like about these cars, I've been damn lucky so far. Sit down in Harrah's in new Orleans and I'm broke in 30 minutes. Lucky at love I guess.

Yeah I set mine like the DVD from ztherapy shows, however the DVD uses Grose valves which are much stiffer than the new needle pin valves they sold me. I turned the lids upside down to get the 9/16" space the DVD shows. My tangs looked like the ramps Evel Knievel used to jump the Bellagio fountains. I finally got wise/bored and put the floats and lids on top of a glass, hooked up a low psi fuel pump and set them to 23mm down. Then the tangs look like speed bumps instead of ramps now. I believe it was the fountains at Caesars now that i think about it. I's just a puppy when I saw that.

I found the thread and I need to apologize. It was my lash pad or rocker guide that fell off the valve spring. The rocker actually stayed on top of the valve spring retainer it was just super loose but straight. Looking at your's I don't think you would have gone too far without damaging something. Mine...

I agree, looks good. I was breaking in my "just rebuilt" '77 and about 30 minutes from home I hear a terrible clicking from the head. Slowly back roaded it back home and found the same thing, a rocker had jumped off. Put it back on after asking the guys on here. Never had another problem.

Too add more info from my experience today. I've realized what I thought was a long time sitting problem where I have to tap my float chambers with a rubber handled screwdriver to get mine to crank after a month or so turns out my lids were loose, not terribly loose but the 4 screws needed a few rounds to get them snug again. That could be the reason the bowls were empty, evaporation from not snug lids? I know @dutchzcarguy said he had to pop his to. Maybe this would be helpful to you Mart. Everything is back to normal now. I had leaking lids on start up which could be disastrous out on the freeway. I assume the new filters gave me better psi and caused the constant dripping of fuel onto my 6to1 header runners. Thank you all for the help over the years. Couldn't have been a better team effort from all of you. I'll always be in debt to CZCC members.

Finally got around to buttoning up this little project. Now I know for my 2/72 240Z after completing draining the tank and replacing two fuel filters, OE on the firewall and precautionary one right out of the tank, 5 gallons of fuel puts my gauge on EMPTY. When it was dry as a bone the gauge needle wouldn't move and was a quarter of an inch below EMPTY. Lesson for me going foward: when my gauge gets to Empty I still have 5 gallons of fuel in the tank. I like knowing that to be positively true for my car. And Red-Kote is a fantastic tank liner as I have not seen any type of failure since 2015 when I lined the tank. Good day.

I bought a 2.4 motor with an E88 head once and it had a really gassy smell. Started disassembling and saw that the the head was squeaky clean under the valve cover. Turned out to be a flooding carb was dumping all that fuel then mixing off the head into the oil. Did you use new injectors? You may have one that is over spraying or possibly the CSV is dumping too much fuel? Just a thought...

I've always read that if you can spin the fan blades around more than one or 1.5 complete rotations while the car is off and "cold" the clutch could be bad. Another way that's a little trickier is if you can stop the running fan with a piece of cardboard it's most likely bad. They're oil filled so it should be harder to spin freely by hand before cranking while the oil is cool. They are cheap, or used to be , available and not too hard to replace. I'm more concerned about the oil pressure gauge.

I put a 5 speed in my '72 but it popped out of gear. I removed the shift lever and saw some scratch and nick marks where it was hitting something, I can't remember what now but after I ground down where those nicks where it has worked fine. Just my experience, hopefully you will avoid this. Here's some threads on the different shifters you can read through when you have time.

I'm still climbing through the hatch to unlock the driver's door lock on my '77. 240 has no operational locks. It's an occasional driver but never a parker.

I've made a, wait for it...... huge mistake! You are already in the old. You just need the fuel pump for your SUs. My bad!

I can see the lines on my '72's, right past the hole for the rubber.

By the time I would buy an automatic Z the used prices will be much lower.

I would do the ZX as much as possible but not all the EFI wiring, run SUs.

You can move the 2 plates in the dizzy to tell if they're frozen or not. Sounds like your firing order may be off. 153624 is what it should be. The cap has a raised line on the outside where #1 should be, then counter clockwise from 1 around to 4. The front spark plug is #1 through 6 which is closest to the windshield.

My '72 has an arrow mounted on the front cover I think. The degree marks are on my pulley as in nothes. The largest being 0, or tdc.