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I found a thread with EScanlon and Fastwoman's input. Electrical came natural to them it seems so here something to read until SteveJ replies.

I would send a text, probably get a quicker response.

Mine isn't noisy but they are known to get that way or so I've read. Here's a good read that might be helpful. Some tips on quietening one down. https://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuelpump/index.html

What do think about hand drilling that small hole to a 5/16" opening like my old one? Is there a purpose or just shoddy quality? Thanks Steve.

No parts store around here has Fram G2 filters at the moment. I found some off brand knockoffs at them but no Frams. I bought from o'Reilly's "Micro" something or another. The OE fuel filter looks good and was only $5 but the G2 that I use coming out of the fuel tank was a off, the 5/16" barb went down to an 1/8" hole on the out side. The in barb is 5/16". My thinking is to gently open the small hole by slowly turning a drill bit while blowing through to keep the shavings out of the filter. No big deal but was curious if anyone else ran into to this. That "supply chain" excuse is worn out and this is just poor adherence to specifications in my opinion. Just a rant from me, as usual, but how long are we going to accept this crap and blame it on covid. Redundant I know but damn it, the bar has been lowered and I'm worried it's never gonna be the same. Happy 4th of July China. Stick to cheap fireworks for me. Old G2... New small output hole...

Agree with Pop's Z. You'll want to get them all while you're doing it as the others are sure to fail also. I bought all my low pressure fuel hose at o'Reilly's auto parts. Don't use heater hose. For the 180 degree bend you can use 2 PEX 90s and some clamps. Me and some others have done it without any issues. You'll have to remove the back panel of the hatch that covers the backside of the brake lights. You might can reuse the plastic rivets that hold it on but if not they're still available from Nissan or Z specific vendors like zcardepot.com. Here's some good threads to read through before you tackle the job. Good luck. Plenty of help here when you need it. https://www.google.com/search?q=240z+evap+hoses+classiczcars.com&client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&ei=9SS-Yq7VFpOxqtsP-YGkiAs&oq=240z+evap+hoses+classiczcars.com&gs_lcp=ChNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwEAM6BAgeEApKBAhBGAFQlxRY3Upg4lNoAHAAeACAAYYDiAHjEJIBCDAuMTAuMS4xmAEAoAEBwAEB&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp

From my experience, best bang for the bucks, get the cylinder head as good as you can afford plus an aluminum flywheel. Quick rev high rpms. But if the cylinder walls are damaged more than a good hone will smoothe out I understand the over bore. I have a 83mm 2.4 with big valves and an aluminum flywheel that I drive everytime. My 2.8 86mm hasn't seen the sun in years, it's the garage queen #2 on constant trickle charge. May put some fresh fuel in it this holiday weekend?

Mine was a little rough after light cut from machinest. Felt like brake rotors after cutting.

A lot of good info in this thread... More...

Hoover's...

I've always had good results on aluminum and most other metal with lacquer thinner. 6 Z pistons fit perfect in the bottom of a five gallon bucket. Cover with the thinner and put a lid on, it evaporates pretty quick and stinks too, after a few days I blow them off with my air compressor. They look like new. A few years ago it was $9.99 a gallon at Lowe's, now it's $25.

Clear hose is best. You can see it before a mouth full. We use them for transferring fuel into boats. In Alabama it's a "Georgia credit card".

I used Nissan Titan truck exhaust studs and one use lock nuts on the ends of my N42. Altima smaller stuff in the middle. All bought at local Nissan dealership. The ends were already wallered out so going with the bigger studs was a no brainer. The smaller Altima which is the same as OE Datsun was just a much better, newer way than lock washers and free spinning nuts from the factory. My opinion only but after years of checking, they are still nice and tight.

100% agree with you. I've never experienced vapor lock. Your float bowls are low. Don't go by the 23mm, max them out and be sure your overflow hoses are connected to the air box. I set mine higher and never have any problems.

I work for a guy that has 86 1,000 sq. ft. apartments. He raised the the price per month 25% "none are available so I can charge what I want, they can get one somewhere else if they can". The people that didn't renew their leases after the initial 12 month agreement were on a month to month lease. Between 10 and 15 are vacant now. The buck is about to stop at his doorstep. Fortunately I run a paint store he owns so I'm moving a lot of product and getting PAID!

A little past halfway down of the link I posted earlier. https://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm

I found some at Nappa too.

Is this common on the 240s? It's my first time seeing what appears to be a heat shield under the fuel pump? Curious mind asking. Thanks for any replies.

Good read if you have time.

They have marine stabilizers that get rid of ethanol or av-gas. If you do get e free fuel you can run the feed hose of the mechanical pump straight out of a gas can between the bumper and radiator. I did that to confirm a nasty tank on one I bought. Drove it around the neighborhood for a few days, very slowly.

I ask my nephew if he was a starter for his baseball team. He didn't know what that meant, said he was a player.

They rarely go bad just filing the contacts to shine again and making sure there's no spider webs in there. I had to bend the arm on mine when I first bought my '77 after reading this great write up with a lot of good photos. Thanks @240260280 https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tps/index.html

10w30 down here. That high milage valvoline has the best additives from my reading without going with the diesel oil. It's got some extra zddp for worn engines and supposedly keeps the rubber conditioned? Walmart has a high milage brand also that I run in my d21 pickup with 350,000 plus miles. I have great oil pressure in my 240, always. When it drops down a little I check my records and it's always time for a change out. Can't explain that but it never fails to be true.

Do you think dead heading increased fuel therefore eliminating hot evaporation? I'm just curious as this is a common question asked often. I've never had an issue and it's 90F right now down here in the Deep South and getting warmer as I reply.

The newer needle valves from ztherapy are a little tricky to set the gap between the float and lid edge. I learned the hard way that turning the lids upside down to adjust does not work like their older video where they use Grose valves. I'm curious like Captain Obvious if the float chambers are running out of fuel then filling back up after waiting a short while. Have you tried adding choke when it starts to stumble? In my short learning curve the chokes work better than pedal. Clarity: the fuel evaporates faster when it's hot.