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A little late maybe but you all do know those nuts on the T/C rod's cup ends are one use. I found that out the hard way. They may not come loose the 2nd time around but mine did. Luckily it happened backing up my driveway so I got lucky I guess?

Oh yeah, it would rub the paint unless you put some type of cushion in between. I did that on those 10mm bolts on the top left and right side where the spoiler attaches to the metal close to the headlights. I used those flat rubber fender washer looking things from Lowe's. Did you have as much fun as me attaching those two bolts? Those were a pain in my rectum.

Man! That looks great. I put the original lip behind my Xenon spoiler to stop the high speed flexing, flapping maybe, and it made a big difference as far as reinforcement. You can adjust those front lips so I did mine right up snug behind the spoiler. The thing circled in your picture.

The ones you bought are the better in my opinion. The pin that rides on the float tang is closer to OE. A lot thicker and rounded off at the tip. The others are more like pins and more sensitive I imagine. Here's a bunch of reading and pictures on the different valves.

You got the good valves too! Mine have needle tips like the Schrader valve pin on valve stems of tires. Who did you get those from if don't mind sharing?

The front bowl goes low on acceleration so the longer one goes on the front to compensate. There should be a R stamped on the short one. Ztherapy sends both the same length. You add/stack washers to make up the difference. Best thing I've ever done to my carbs was put two rear lids on mine, front and back I got that right? It's 2 rear lids that are shorter.

You can pull it and it put in a glass container and see how much it fills. Like s30driver says it only comes in at start up but they do leak when their bad adding fuel. They're on the same 30lb something high pressure side of the pump. On cleaning the bullet connections I say shine up all connections. It won't take long and cost nothing. Here's the main thought on shing up old connections. https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html

Post #2 shows them. They get corroded over time and loose their sensitivity. You can remove them and sand them down until shiny, steel wool works best.

Have you cleaned all the brass sensors in the thermostat housing? That helped mine.

Has anyone mentiond the cold start injector? Sometimes they add too much fuel on warm up. The fuel sensor bullet connections are also suspect.

Here's what I'm talking about. That flat blade heats up and turns the metal disc inside the housing. Opening and closing it.

My original AAR had the electrical coil windings break loose. The part that has the electrical connector would slide out if I remember right. I found a good one at an old junkyard locally. I've read where people put them in boiling water to see if they close but I don't think that's good since there are electric windings. Maybe a hot hair dryer or a heat gun would let you test it? I could have glued the innards back in I guess but found the better one.

That's what she said.

I run a ps20 fireball coil with the e12-80 distributor on my my 240. I split the the low and high and gapped at .041 with the ngk bp6es. Runs great.

Oh boy did I miss that one!

Another temporary option after a little filing.

Thanks! I'm bookmarking this link. Haven't seen them before. 240Z slam panel

https://tabcoparts.com/cars/datsun/240z-260z-280z-1970-1978/1234.html

Wait a minute! You have the injector holes on the N47. Are you running carbs? @Jeff G 78 can tell you. He runs a p79 with carbs. Same as n47.

I would search around the parts web sites and see if the same manifold gasket, diamond shape is what they call it, would fit the '77 280 and whatever year 240 exhaust manifold you have are compatible. Felpro makes one that would be the most universal I think. I've got the gaskets downstairs I could put over each other and take some pics tomorrow and let you decide. It'd be close. Actually I think that's why Felpro makes the diamond shape. To cover both exhaust ports.

Thanks to our buddy Hoover here's a good read. Once you wrap your head around this it all falls in place. The "ah ha" for me.

Me too!

Well you said it ran better all the way up so that explains the yellow part. I would make sure the nozzles are completely up. That flat bar Mark spoke of can get out of shape and keep them from reaching their height and lessening the fuel. Have you a way to meter the air flow, balance that? These are great and fairly cheap. Well after googling it there not so cheap anymore? https://www.amazon.com/Latest-Rage-5385730856-Carburetor-Airflow/dp/B00CMC57R0/ref=pd_aw_fbt_img_2/140-4982961-2615742?pd_rd_w=Xlzjj&pf_rd_p=76328f70-5fff-49b7-869a-94bfdaa768fc&pf_rd_r=JECHWPJ6RGT64TVVHVNZ&pd_rd_r=42368007-404a-49b9-87a3-cbbfc73c54b5&pd_rd_wg=n1J8w&pd_rd_i=B00CMC57R0&psc=1 I agree with Steve and Zed, a good tune 1st. When I got mine the best running ever I had my timing full advance at 17 at idle then the dial back set on 34. At 2,500 rpm it sits at 0 on my light. BUT! I have a ZX electronic distributor. Love the old car but the simplicity was increased with the newer ZX dizzy.

That and white with blue interior from all I've read. So I guess blue interior makes that true. @Bonzi Lon would know if he's still around. He had blue on blue that's in Saudia Arabia now and I'm positive he got PAID.

I'll mention this too. If you rebuilt them with the newer needle valves and adjusted the height like the DVD shows, upside down at 5/8", your floats are off and starving the carbs of fuel. There's a bunch on here about that and I'll help find the threads but 1st off what does yellow mean on colortune?